JMortensen Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Just found this today while I was checking everything in the suspension for clearance. Not sure if anyone else has experienced this problem. With the coilover adjuster all the way down there is still quite a bit of travel, but the caliper actually HITS the adjuster. Not good. This is a JSK brake setup. If you have this setup and are running really low, look out. Last thing you want is a brake failure at a critical moment. Also turning the wheel turns the adjuster too, doubly not good. I am going to try and modify the caliper bracket so it can be flipped and the caliper can be mounted at the 7:30 or 8 o' clock position instead of the 10:30 ish position it was originally designed for. Getting tired of finding new problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 (edited) I see another problem you have. You have your sand blasting cabinet mounted to your ceiling ! On a serious note. That is NOT good at all. I couldn't imagine what would happen if the brake caliper were to get wedged/broken off while in a turn This is a good example of exactly what to do after you install ANY item........double/triple check your work ! Make sure nothing has been left unchecked or loose... Good catch ! Glad you found this out BEFORE you took it for a test spin. Noob question; What is this JSK brake setup you are using? Edited March 12, 2010 by Blown77Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 There was a member here by the name of Juan who made brake parts and sold them here and on ebay under the name JSK Innovations. I have his rear brake setup and these caliper brackets were his, although the hubs and rotors I'm using are not part of his kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Do you think that you will ever be adjusted that low? I doubt it unless you are using really tall springs. In the spring rates you are going with an 8" spring is the tallest spring that you would want. You can see where my 500# 8" front springs are adjusted to for my ride height in this picture: At that ride height, my oil pan is less than 3" off the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 (edited) I'm using a 10" spring, so I might be into that area. I probably should have used 8" springs, but when I bought them I was focused on whether the spring would bind before the car ran out of travel, not the fact that the spring won't ever bind because it won't compress that far. I believe with the 10" spring I have about 3.5" of bump before it coil binds. Can't remember what the 8" had, but it was significantly less. Part of the plan on this car was to fix all the suspension angles and issues that come from running REALLY low, so that I could do that without all of the ill effects. Plus my threaded collars are only 4" long, and they're installed so that the spring hits the top hat with the adjuster all the way up, so that throws people off too. I'm going to try and fix the bracket today, my only worry is that if I move the caliper down that it might hit the TC rod, but I think I'll be OK there. We shall see. EDIT--your oil pan looks really tall. The one I'll be using is 5.25" deep as I recall. Edited March 12, 2010 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted March 12, 2010 Administrators Share Posted March 12, 2010 (edited) EDIT--your oil pan looks really tall. The one I'll be using is 5.25" deep as I recall. Jon Oil pan height differences come from block design differences. LSx blocks are skirted meaning the oil pan rail is below the crank centerline. Small Block Ford oil pan rail is, for sake of discussion, right at crank centerline, same with SBC and SB Mopar as well. so for a given distance from bottom of pan to crank centerline, LSx pans are going to be much shorter. Edited March 12, 2010 by BRAAP Typo's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 Oil pan height differences come from block design differences. LSx blocks are skirted meaning the oil pan rail is below the crank centerline. Small Block Ford oil pan rail is, for sake of discussion, right at crank centerline, same with SBC and SB Mopar as well. so for a given distance from bottom of pan to crank centerline, LSx pans are going to be much shorter. I see. Thanks for the correction there. I know the pan will be close to the ground at ride height, that's for sure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 (edited) I went and stuck a wheel on with the coilover all the way down, looks like it's about 4" from the bottom of the wheel to the crossmember. Should have maybe 1" droop, so it will be close to or maybe actually a bit higher than Dan's car with the adjuster all the way down. I also took a look at the bracket, needs only to be clearanced about 1/4", and there is no issue with the TC rod or anything else, so I think I'll go ahead and do that. I could clearance the strut housing too, but I don't want to completely disassemble the thing in order to do that without spraying metal chips all over the shocks and camber plates and hubs. The bummer is that I don't think I'll be able to get the car as low as I wanted, so I may have to buy 8" springs for the front. I think I'll be alright in the rear with the 10" springs. I'm going to wait to get the loaded car on the suspension to see what it does then before buying anything though. I guess I didn't take into account that when I upped the spring rate I drastically reduced the sag, so even though the struts are sectioned and all that it might still ride higher than it did previously. Edited March 12, 2010 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 This car is trying to kill me. I modded the bracket, which required grinding on the strut a little bit, and then bolted it all together and the caliper DOES hit the TC rod. Son of a... Not sure what to do next. I could just be careful and not lower it all the way down with 8" springs, but I'm not feeling real good about the whole thing. I suppose the other option is make a different caliper bracket, but there is no way I could do that myself. My drill press isn't nearly accurate enough. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 (edited) Jon, get some 8" springs. With the spring rates that you are using, you should be using the shortest springs that you can get away with. I say this not just for clearance reasons, but for spring buckling reasons. Read this link and you will understand why: http://www.efunda.com/designstandards/springs/spring_buckling.cfm Assume that you are trying to stay below the green line. And regarding my oil pan: The pan on my car was made specially to be 1" shallower than stock. The stock pan is 7.5" deep and has 5 quart capacity, and my pan is 6.5" deep and has 7 quart capacity (side kick-outs). Edited March 12, 2010 by 74_5.0L_Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 The more I think about it the more I realize 8" springs are the easy answer, I think I'll take your advice. I would just prefer that it be idiot proof so that I couldn't possibly turn the collar down to where there was a problem. Guess I'm not going to get my wish this time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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