JTR/Sanderson header fitment

[zgeezer]

I have a set of JTR shorties fabricated by Sanderson's headers. I mocked them up on my LM7 last night and I swear that I'll never get the spark plug in cylinder #5 in or out. The tubes are 1.75 inches in diameter. I can't fit my spark plug socket in between the tubes and my craftsman open ended wrench can't get a grip on the plug. And the metal heat shields don't fit either... so another question. As close as the tubes are to the spark plug what do you use for a heat proof wire termination. (Spark plug boot).

 

If you are running JTR shorties on a GEN III engine, please.... what do you use to change the #5 spark plug? Please a simple answer, such as tool #123B side bar weasel wench wrench by Kracow for $29.95 at Pep Boys.

 

I've not checked the passenger car side, so I may have another use for your answers.

 

Thanks

 

Sorry about the lack of photos, I'm still trying to find out how to do that...... new program... different problems.

 

G

[hoov100]

For plug wire protection, i have always used those little kevlar plug wire condoms. As for the plug issue, if you can get just the socket on it, you should be able to get an open end wrench on the end of the socket and use that to tighten it down. Atleast thats what I have had to do in the past.

[zgeezer]

Actually, I found the answer: as usual for me, simple and in front of my nose. #5 spark plug is a very tight fit. The usual spark plug deep well socket will not work. Found a cheap.... $3.50 T handle universal jointed "bottle necked" deep well socket. The narrow diameter of the bottle necked socket allows it to work.

 

I'll use a complete set of LS2 wires with a 90 degree boot with a kevlar sock to protect the wires.

 

If you are using JTR headers with JC's LS1 installation kits... you can't use John's oil pressure relocation kit. The JTR heads hit the oil pressure sensor.

 

I don't know if GM's oil pressure sending unit is compatible with the 240Z gauge. I assume it is not and will simply replace the GM sender with the Datsun sender... this will require a fitting to adapt the GM block to Datsun male thread.

 

g

[kj280z]

Actually, I found the answer: as usual for me, simple and in front of my nose. #5 spark plug is a very tight fit. The usual spark plug deep well socket will not work. Found a cheap.... $3.50 T handle universal jointed "bottle necked" deep well socket. The narrow diameter of the bottle necked socket allows it to work.

 

I'll use a complete set of LS2 wires with a 90 degree boot with a kevlar sock to protect the wires.

 

If you are using JTR headers with JC's LS1 installation kits... you can't use John's oil pressure relocation kit. The JTR heads hit the oil pressure sensor.

 

I don't know if GM's oil pressure sending unit is compatible with the 240Z gauge. I assume it is not and will simply replace the GM sender with the Datsun sender... this will require a fitting to adapt the GM block to Datsun male thread.

 

g

 

 

Zgeezer - I'm about it do the final install on those headers so I will check out the tool you're talking about (can you post a pic yet?)

 

Also, do you have info on the adapter for the oil pressure sensor relocation to the stock GM location (top rear drivers side)

 

 

[zgeezer]

Zgeezer - I'm about it do the final install on those headers so I will check out the tool you're talking about (can you post a pic yet?)

 

Also, do you have info on the adapter for the oil pressure sensor relocation to the stock GM location (top rear drivers side)

 

 

Yes, the adaptor you want is a simple brass fitting that goes metric on the block side to 1/8th (might be 1/4 inch) inch pipe thread on top. This is a standard piece for autometer gauges into LS1. I paid $8.00 from Summit and I think Nook and Tranny also stocks it. I purchased an early Datsun oil pressure sender from Kragen ($18.00), wrapped it in teflon and screwed it in. There is a difference between the Datsun sender threads and the adaptor are small and, according to Mike Knell's book, there is no leakage problem if you use teflon.

 

This assembly clears my intake manifold and my firewall. Bear in mind that I am running the tall LM7 (5.2) intake manifold. An Ls1 or Ls6 may or may not have the same clearance in the back. If there is a clearance problem, I think it could be cured by using a threaded brass extension of about 4 inches long with a bend to clear the manifold.

 

EDIT: This matter is well covered on Ls1tech.com and on Ls1.com... search on autolight or autometer oil gauge installations.

 

G

Edited January 3, 2011 by zgeezer