what did i get myself into?!?!

[jenzos]

I just purchased a non-running 1978 280z. At what point is too much rust too much?! I got it for 400$ i know for sure one frame rail needs to be redone, the floor pan seems good, and the exterior is all kinds of rusted.

 

if i cant do it, ill be forced to get it junked but it has a title, all original etc. I really want to bring it back to life! I am in the military and don't have a lot of money. No garage, but i want to get it running so i can bring it on base to the hobby shop that has a full body shop & start grinding and welding. I can leave it there etc.

 

This fuel injection is impossible!!!!! i wish it was carb'd! I am havng the classic problem, been reading the FI bible, searching google. Still cant get her running.

 

So far it has a new fuel pump & filter, and spark plugs. I am getting spark, and the fuel pump was wired manually and was running. The injectors are getting there 12v power, but not grounded. Checked the relay and don't really know what to do, cleaned the fusible link contacts etc. I tried starter fluid just in case. Could it be the timing? Even then the injectors still arent putting fuel into the cylinders.

 

I am at a loss right now. I am in Eastern north carolina, so any of you guys from around here?

 

Any help would be appreciated thank you!

[ModernS30]

Well, if starter fluid didn't make it fire, you have a spark issue is what that sounds like. I sprayed starter fluid into a car with bad injectors and it fired up. You could check your timing and everything. You are sure your getting spark at the plugs? Unbolt a spark plug and crank it over watching for spark. This means either you crank it and somebody watches or somebody cranks and you watch. There are so many things it could be its not even funny.

[jenzos]

There was spark i cranked and my buddy pulled a wire out... It wouldn't matter if i didnt take the actual plug out? I put brand new plugs in today.

 

I know it could be so many things, I have no idea where to start haha

[Oddmanout84]

Check the ECU plug. Those little pin connectors are awful. I had the same problem for a long time. I eventually got the car to fire when cranking but it would not self sustain. Turned out it was the ECU plug. Until I swapped my engine out, I had to hold the plug in at times while on the freeway to keep the engine from cutting out.

 

Also check the EFI relay and ignition relay. Nissan still carries the parts, and the ignition relay they sell now is an upgraded unit. Works much better. Just give them the part number off your old IGN relay and they SHOULD be able to find the upgraded one in their system.

 

Edit: forgot to mention, the way the injectors fire is by the ECU switching their grounds on and off. Nissan is weird.

Edited March 22, 2010 by Oddmanout84

[jenzos]

Here is a pic you can see some of the rust, the pass side fender is horrible. the lower regions are all rusted as well.

 

I will head to nissan tomorrow see what they can do.

 

Thank you!! Keep the replies coming!

Edited March 22, 2010 by jenzos

[jasper]

When was the last time this car was in running condition??

My car sat 15yrs.

It needed a fuel system rebuild/clean front to rear, starting with tank removal,etc,etc,etc. No fuel system part was immune.

If you have many issues: fuel system, fuel system electric/electronic, etc...A good choice is to remove all of it, and go with an su carb...or easier....a 4 barrel carb set up ( my personal suggestion). Very easy AND VERY reliable.

 

HOWEVER>>>>>structural rust should be your PRIMARY CONCERN. Don't spend money getting a car running that is too expensive to repair mechanically/structurally. For what you will pay someone to repair structural rust, you may be able to buy a much better car for less.

Ask members of the rotisserie club for input.

Edited March 22, 2010 by jasper

[Rolling Parts]

 

I am at a loss right now.

 

What you do with a car like that is STOP. Take it completely apart. Do the body work and paint the shell. Then don't put anything on the shell that has not been reworked or is new. You'll need an engine stand, a compressor and paint gun, torque wrench, and roughly $7,000 for parts. It will take you about a year of serious work if this is your first time (2-3 years if you're not committed to getting it done).

 

Good luck.

[jasper]

Another option.

Buy another/better car.

Donate $20.00 to HybridZ,.. ..... so you can sell the parts you don't need.

Probably at a profit over the $400.00 you paid. Benefit.? you don't spend a good deal of your life fixing rust, but rather driving your Z

[jasper]

My LAST POST on this subject.

 

FOLLOW Dave's example!!!

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/84832-my-latest-projecta-new-z/page__p__806282__hl__rope%20through%20window__fromsearch__1entry806282

 

Edited March 22, 2010 by jasper

[jenzos]

What you do with a car like that is STOP. Take it completely apart. Do the body work and paint the shell. Then don't put anything on the shell that has not been reworked or is new. You'll need an engine stand, a compressor and paint gun, torque wrench, and roughly $7,000 for parts. It will take you about a year of serious work if this is your first time (2-3 years if you're not committed to getting it done).

 

Good luck.

 

I don't know if this is a sarcastic response, but that is kind of my original plan after looking at the car. I have the tools at my disposal, there is a full body shop and regular shop that i can work at for free. The spray booth is like 50$ a day.

 

The car has been sitting for about 10 years now.

 

I just feel guilty about junking the car though...

 

I think i am just going to keep it, im 20 years old got plenty of time to work on it once i get out of the Marines, if the car is FUBAR i'll just save it as a parts car for another Z. I've wanted one since i was 14 so I feel guilty giving this one up Plus this one was only $400.

 

I guess i'll start ripping the car down to body and starting over!!!

Edited March 22, 2010 by jenzos

[Rolling Parts]

I don't know if this is a sarcastic response, but that is kind of my original plan after looking at the car.

 

 

No, it was an assessment of a high rust, used, 35 year old car that sat for years. It's realistically the only way to go since all the rubber is shot and all systems will need a thorough inspection/disassemble anyway.

 

Good luck with the project! Now all you have to do is pick a color since you'll be in so deep that a color change is easy.

[jenzos]

No, it was an assessment of a high rust, used, 35 year old car that sat for years. It's realistically the only way to go since all the rubber is shot and all systems will need a thorough inspection/disassemble anyway.

 

Good luck with the project! Now all you have to do is pick a color since you'll be in so deep that a color change is easy.

 

Oh ok, hard to tell on the internet

 

Yeah, well today im starting to rip it apart. luckily the interior is in good shape!!

 

Thanks! I'll post pics and probably 101238981 more questions

[Oddmanout84]

 

I think i am just going to keep it, im 20 years old got plenty of time to work on it once i get out of the Marines, if the car is FUBAR i'll just save it as a parts car for another Z. I've wanted one since i was 14 so I feel guilty giving this one up Plus this one was only $400.

 

I guess i'll start ripping the car down to body and starting over!!!

 

 

Semper Fi.

 

I got my Z while I was in the Marines as well, when I was stationed at Pendleton. Drove it home, stored it, then went to Okinawa. When I got out 4 years later I took it almost completely apart. Its one of the best ways to do it, and really teaches you about what you're working on. Just make sure to bag and tag all the parts/hardware/fasteners/everything. Take lots of pictures too so you remember what goes where. The next thing after that is to go forth and kill rust. If the rust is too much, at least you have a pile of parts to use next time or sell.

 

Just keep at it and this

 

becomes this

shameless self promotion.

 

You've got the perseverance, and the regular paycheck. The only other matter is the time you can budget.

[CamH]

Hey Marines, just thought I'd chime in on this. I bought my Z when I was a private. It was completely stock. I'm a Corporal now and I've got pretty much everything I want done to it (after I get it back from being painted) and will be getting out within the next year. The Marine Corps is a great way to build a Z.

[Oddmanout84]

Hey Marines, just thought I'd chime in on this. I bought my Z when I was a private. It was completely stock. I'm a Corporal now and I've got pretty much everything I want done to it (after I get it back from being painted) and will be getting out within the next year. The Marine Corps is a great way to build a Z.

 

Yeah, except when you're in Okinawa and your Z is in Connecticut!

 

Almost 4 years of torturous planning...

 

Edit: And then I come back to find this site and realize I still don't know squat!

Edited March 24, 2010 by Oddmanout84

[Geking]

Check the ECU plug. Those little pin connectors are awful. I had the same problem for a long time. I eventually got the car to fire when cranking but it would not self sustain. Turned out it was the ECU plug. Until I swapped my engine out, I had to hold the plug in at times while on the freeway to keep the engine from cutting out.

 

Also check the EFI relay and ignition relay. Nissan still carries the parts, and the ignition relay they sell now is an upgraded unit. Works much better. Just give them the part number off your old IGN relay and they SHOULD be able to find the upgraded one in their system.

 

Edit: forgot to mention, the way the injectors fire is by the ECU switching their grounds on and off. Nissan is weird.

I second that. Also check the dropping resistors by the master cyls, and make sure that the ECU is getting power and spark signal.

 

I know what is available on base, and I think if you can get it running and store it at the shop you will have the best luck fixing it up. My 280Z got its tires mounted and balanced, and the suspension, headlight buckets and cowl panel glassbead blasted at Fort Belvior. My Z32 DD is going to have it's 120k service done there as well.

 

BTW, most FI systems turn the ground on and off for the injectors and hold the 12 steady.

[Oddmanout84]

 

BTW, most FI systems turn the ground on and off for the injectors and hold the 12 steady.

 

Huh. I thought most cars switch components on and off by switching power on and off, not grounds.

[Rolling Parts]

Huh. I thought most cars switch components on and off by switching power on and off, not grounds.

 

 

The power is switched ON from the key (just like the coil).

Control of those devices is by ground interrupt.

[mobythevan]

What you do with a car like that is STOP. Take it completely apart. Do the body work and paint the shell. Then don't put anything on the shell that has not been reworked or is new. You'll need an engine stand, a compressor and paint gun, torque wrench, and roughly $7,000 for parts. It will take you about a year of serious work if this is your first time (2-3 years if you're not committed to getting it done).

 

Good luck.

 

That is one of the best assessments of working with a rust car I have seen. No one with a rusted z car should have any illusion that the repair will be easy, quick or cheap. I scrapped my rusted 240z and bought a better one to start with.

[JayBee280]

I just purchased a non-running 1978 280z. At what point is too much rust too much?! I got it for 400$ i know for sure one frame rail needs to be redone, the floor pan seems good, and the exterior is all kinds of rusted.

 

if i cant do it, ill be forced to get it junked but it has a title, all original etc. I really want to bring it back to life! I am in the military and don't have a lot of money. No garage, but i want to get it running so i can bring it on base to the hobby shop that has a full body shop & start grinding and welding. I can leave it there etc.

 

This fuel injection is impossible!!!!! i wish it was carb'd! I am havng the classic problem, been reading the FI bible, searching google. Still cant get her running.

 

So far it has a new fuel pump & filter, and spark plugs. I am getting spark, and the fuel pump was wired manually and was running. The injectors are getting there 12v power, but not grounded. Checked the relay and don't really know what to do, cleaned the fusible link contacts etc. I tried starter fluid just in case. Could it be the timing? Even then the injectors still arent putting fuel into the cylinders.

 

I am at a loss right now. I am in Eastern north carolina, so any of you guys from around here?

 

Any help would be appreciated thank you!

 

 

 

 

Hey man dont get get scared your car is actually in great shape for the age its in. and its unmolested so dont junk it. And you have title. But anyways ill be in eastern nc next weekend i can come take a look at it. I know since your in the marines your either at cherry point or camp lejune i grew up at cherry point so thats where ill be and i frequent to jacksonville all the time. So ill keep in touch and i can come help you get it right before you junk it. I had the same couple of problems wit my 280.