warsZ Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 Hi all - I'm having problems fitting my 81'280ZX R200 half shaft swap to my early 71' 240Z hubs. I have used an adapter design from a Z forum site that was said to have been used on plenty of early Z's (240-280) and had no fitment or binding issues what-so-ever. I also realize the longer shaft goes on the passenger side. My half shafts have the splined end that engages into the R200 diff and when fully engaged it is 1" longer than the distance to the rectangular, 4 bolt hub flange (w/ car on jack stands & the struts fully extended down...fully assembled to the car). The adapter has to be .90" wide minimum to "nest" the CV's steel cap which in effect keeps it from hitting the rear hub spline/nut. Soooo...1"+.90"=1.9" which exceeds the CV shaft compression of 1.7". I've surfed many a sites schooling myself about the requirements for this swap and no where has it mentioned anything else to do. All I can see to make this swap work is to disassemble the shafts, cut & weld the shafts to the proper lengths, re-heat treat the shafts and reassemble them. Any help and/or pics of this swap would be GREATLY appreciated! Regards, WarsZ (Warren) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmac708 Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 I think I know what you are talking about. I had to disconnect the top of the strut, lower it down a few inches and swing it out, so I could get that extra bit of room to slide the axle in. I suppose you could unbolt the inboard pivot of the lower control arm and swing the whole assembly out. That has to be easier than to mod the axle. Everything ended up OK, lots of room. I could still compress the spring pushing the axle and it wasn't bottoming out. Does this help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warsZ Posted March 25, 2010 Author Share Posted March 25, 2010 Excellent pics...Thanks! It looks like you're using Modern Motorsports hub/adapter...I wonder if their design creates a different spacing of their rear hub mounting flange than my simple added component. My fitment isn't that it won't assemble but that it's used up most if not all the CV compression. I would hate to damage my diff or anything else. Unfortunately I can't post pics from my computer. I'll try later tonight Thanks again for your response! Regards, Warren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 Have you tried to determine the clearance with the control at ride position? I thought I read where the control arms are shorter while in the hanging position, thus, can't insert half shaft, but if you put a jack under it and raise till level with half shaft, there is more room. I don't know this to be fact, so maybe try it out if no one else confirms, or disputes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warsZ Posted March 25, 2010 Author Share Posted March 25, 2010 Hmmm...I believe when the hub/lower control arm is in the extended down position this would allow "less" compression to the CV shaft as this would be the longest distance from the diff. When the center line of the hub/lower control arm is raised & level w/ the centerline of the diff openining this would be the shortest distance i.e more CV compression req'd. Even though I was able to assemble the shaft/adapter into place...I jacked the hub assembly up and it went close to the center position (as in the above pics) then the whole car started moving up. I thought that the CV shaft had bottomed out and was lifting the car. Now that I think about it, I had the struts and springs in place so maybe the springs/strut compressed only so far and then lifted the car? Tonight I'll remove the spring and add weight (have my high school boys sit in the rear hatch area )and hopefully I'll get full travel. Any thoughts? Warren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palosfv3 Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 If memory serves me correctly , the outer cv needs to be taken apart, the bearing removed from the shaft and reinstalled flipped 180 degrees of how it came off. This should shorten the overall length of the assembly by about 10mm to 12mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warsZ Posted March 25, 2010 Author Share Posted March 25, 2010 I just looked at my outboard CV...removed the cap and noticed the spline was peened in three locations which retained the ball assy. I expected to see a snap ring...! Do I (gently) grind the peened areas off? I'll try the spring removal and "HOPE" I get full wheel travel...if not...has anyone flipped the ball assy 180 degrees and can verify that this works before I (literly) open this can of worms? Thanks a lot everyone...I yeild to your expertice in this matter. Warren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palosfv3 Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 (edited) These are the axle shafts I'm was referring to. There were not peened over and were a simple task to flip. I need to find the receipts to verify exactly which ones they were . They appear bigger than the axles in GMAC's pictures. Sorry for the inconvienience. Edited March 25, 2010 by palosfv3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warsZ Posted March 25, 2010 Author Share Posted March 25, 2010 I'm not able to get the pics via your web path. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warsZ Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 Gents - I had my sons sit in the hatch and jacked up the wheel (path of least resistance...it was that or remove springs or drop the A-arm brkts ) and their weight held the car down w/ struts/springs in place. This allowed the car to stay put on the stands while I jacked the hub up through the range of motion. The shaft still has @.40-.50" of play (thoughout the range) so I'm considering this a win!!! I'm surprised at that travel as the shafts were "completely" bottomed out during installation. I was being overly concerned I guess but as this build has been on a budget, I can't afford expensive whoopsees. I'm very excited to get this last hurdle accomplished! This project has been in the making for a year and 4 months now. Like I said, I've researched many articles on this subject and I've redesigned this adapter to simplify manufacturing which would drop the cost from other adapters out there. Using the stock 240Z hub is not the strongest as a Modern motorsports or the like but for us guys that want to drive spirited from time to time and autocross here and there I'm sure it'll be fine. I'll be the beta test and if all works out I can have these manufactured (resonably) and pass any potential savings on to forum members. I'll take pics and post by the weekend. Warren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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