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About palosfv3

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  1. Did this one a couple of years ago.
  2. If you want fast Porsche videos that make you nervous how about this one. While this Lemans video says 917 some believe its a 962. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpFlE9PFTzs . Its said Mark Donohue sat for ten to twenty minutes after driving one of these at Le Mans to compose himself and control the shaking .
  3. This is correct. info. I would only add to be sure you have cleaned all the blasted metal with the proper agent extremely well and to follow with a chemical cleaning of the metal before priming . I recommend you view the bare body before its primed by anyone else to ensure any rust is properly tended to as soda doesn't remove rust only paint coatings. We have had several projects brought to our shop over the years that have been primed by the soda blasting company only to have to strip them down to bare and start over again because the rust' wasn't tended to correctly. All filling primer is porous . Moisture can and will permeate through the coating and cause issues with the metal . I always coat all bare metal with an etch or epoxy zinc based primer before topping with a fill primer. Etch or zinc based primers have the best adhesion qualities to bare metals and are the only products that actually resist oxidation of the metal.
  4. If memory serves me correctly each state has a "Department of Profession and Ethics " that is charged with keeping tabs on local law enforcement . If your town or local police officer isn't applying the law or is playing around with things they should be made aware of whats going on. But before you pull out a big gun make sure those who are charged with the responsibility of overseeing the behavior of the local officers are aware of things and allowed an opportunity to correct things . I know of police officials that would welcome feedback on how their patrol officers are handling situations and for all you know there could be written reports of bad behavior already recorded .
  5. Your situation can get quite complicated especially since your not the registered owner of the car . In the best case the other party has a great insurance company and they will take care of things but I dont think this will be easily resolved. Was the other driver cited for anything and did they have coverage ? You will have some difficulty in dealing with the other parties insurance company because they will owe the damage repair cost to the vehicle owner and must make payment to him to clear the liability. Notifying the TRs owner of the incident is important for several reasons. If this insurance company fails to acknowledge their insured's liability the owner may have coverage under his auto policy.( Keep your fingers crossed he didn't suspend the collision coverage since the car was stored ) In most states the insurance stays with the car . If he doesn't have coverage and they deny the claim, the liability coverage on your personal car may provide coverage . If your an employee of your fathers garage and you were test driving the car when this happened, there maybe coverage under the garage keepers insurance they should be carrying. The important things you need to do are , Make sure you are not injured ( Once the adrenalin rush subsides you may feel differently than you do now ). Make sure the an accident report is filed and it clearly states the events in the order that they occurred, make sure you have all the necessary contact info from the other party including their insurance info with policy number, notify the TRs owner of the accident, notify your insurance company and that of the garage if applicable., notify the other parties insurance company of the loss ( don't wait for the person that struck the car to do this, by putting them on notice of the accident they can settle the loss without the consent of the insured if there is sufficient evidence that the insured is liable ), make sure you have your neighbors contact info so he can give a statement to the insurance claims rep on what he witnessed. Oh by the way I have been driving manual trans cars for a very long time and I have stalled a car or two leaving the light . The police officer may have been correct to cite the car for no inspection sticker but he should not be making any statement or coming to any conclusion in the report that the cars lack of a sticker caused the accident. From your description of the accident it is evident that she was not paying attention to the traffic situation in front of her car . Best Regards
  6. Just because someone has done it doesnt make it ok. It will fail. A properly executed hat channel would not have two pieces laid inside each other . Doing a replacement as suggested creates a corrosion hot spot and would not add any significant structural stiffness or torsional rigidity to the body. If this is such a good way of doing things why dont we see the auto manufacturors use this type of doubled up panel as part of their build process ?
  7. Most reds are some what tranparent and the level of transparency differs from brand to brand as well as product line. Lesser cost paints tend to need more coats for complete coverage . Many of the catalysed single stage colors are very user friendly , sand and buff nicely and have good lifespans. Stay with the higher grade products if you can as they have better UV protection , better gloss retention, ect. At $1100.00 you friend is being very cost consious. The amount of color needed can vary on the transparency issue and brand . 4 quarts should do the exterior and jambs but not under the hood . Check the color formula for the recommended sealer color as this will minimize some of the coverage issues you may encounter . Make especially sure the sealer or primer coat that you are applying your color over is consistent . Applying color over a multi colored patched subcoat can result in a dark or light spot in the final color coat. We would use Du Pont Chroma One here at our shop for a refinsh repair similar to yours .
  8. The seat being out maybe a minor issue . The anchor points and their supports are really not that strong and it could just be a bent lower track or support.
  9. Before making any decision you need to know what type of insurance policy you have . Market value , stated value or appraised value. SF sells all three. They all have different agreements on how value is determined, I hope the neighbor has a more knowledgeable and fortright staff there than they do here in Illinois. Determining the cost on a repair of this type will be challenging .and any competent shop will probably bill as time and material. Your neighbor wont like that and will try if repairable limit their exposure before repairs are complete. As far as damage goes you relly need to get the front sheetmetal off of the car to accurately determine the extent of the structural damage and and other conditions that may complicate the repair process.
  10. Take the time to read the appropriate part of your insurance policy that is appllicable to this loss. This is what will really matter most in your negotiation with the insurance company. Surprisingly many of the claims service reps dont completely understand what they owe under what part of the agreement. If in doubt ask them to " put it in wrting " . The verbal vs written answer can many times be different and to your advantage .
  11. It appears there is confusion on the proper usage of weld through primer . It should only be used in the immediate area of the plug weld . It is not to be used to replace ecoats or for rust prevention on parts other than the immediate heat affected area where the weld is being made. I have posted a link to the ICar website where all of the tech articles about welding are listed . Take some time to review these as they are great sources of info straight from the people that test correct repair processes on todays cars. This info is directly transferable to use on older cars. http://fms.i-car.com/advantage_search/FMPro For the Weld through PDF follow this link . http://www.i-car.com/pdf/program_support/advantage/1996/julaug96.pdf
  12. 060 Your misunderstanding the Mitchell estimating data software and how the info is gathered. Mitchell is not timing anyone and doing the math. They do very few time studies and the deeper you dig into the info the more flaws appear in the system. The base for times starts with the manufacturors warrantee labor guides. Are these accurrate or not ? Talk to some dealer ship techs and ask their opinion. There are so many variables as said in the first paragraph of the p pages . Remember these times are for replacement with new OEM undamaged parts on a new undamaged vehicle and the information is to be used as a guide not the "Bible" . Read up on your p pages as well as some of the other info on the manipulation of the labors time and pricing by the insurance industry. You will be shocked by what you learn. I dont do this to stir the pot just to call your attention to the abuses I have expierienced and seen in this industry by the insurance companies. Take some time to look through these sites. http://www.theccre.com/ here a forum discussion on ADP you may find interesting. http://prodiscussions.com/proboard/showthread.php?583-Check-this-out-read-from-the-bottom-up-Audatex-at-it-s-finest http://www.linkedin.com/groups?gid=160427&trk=myg_ugrp_ovr
  13. What makes you believe the body shop owner is dishonest ? Stateing he needs $600.00 to refinish a rear bumper doesnt make him a crook. I believe he is a business person that is aware of his operarting costs are and understands what is needs to charge for repair. You have a choice to conduct business with him or not. Simple as that. Unless you know what the competition may charge for this repair you cannot draw any conclusion as to if he is priced competitively or not. You may want to become aware of your true costs of doing business. Based on your statement you could have difficulties keeping your enterprise open. Costs of doing business involves more than just buying a small amount of paint and clear. I don't want to upset anyone but come on guys . Be realistic. I have been in the business for longer than many on this forum have been around. It disturbs me to have shop owners blanketly called dishonest for no apparent reason and to have those new to the industry unaware of what it takes to exist and become solid reputable entities. Yasin . Its good to see you not afraid to attempt this repair . Do your homework on what the correct repair procedures and the proper repair materials needed . Your rear 280zx cover should be of a urethane composition . If you need to fill any gouges or repair any tears make sure the repair material is the correct flexable material for the urethane. Adhesion promoter is primarily for todays new TPO family covers which have a release agent impregnated into the plastic. Urethane is more flexable than TPO and as such will require a flex additive to be mixed into primers as well as top coats . If your cover has almost invisible cracks in the finish look carefully to make sure they cracks have not extended into the urethane. If they have you will have to repair the urethane . If you just sand and primer they will reappear shortly. There also is a difference in how the bumper is refinished . Off or on the car ? Its best to remove the cover from the car to paint. This way all the edges can be correctly cleaned and sanded. This will give you a better end result. Regards
  14. You may find this article interesting as it is applicable in todays new autos and has relevance to replacement of welded panels in general. Advantage Online: 2011 Archives Figure 1 - Anti-corrosion compound is applied to enclosed interior surfaces with a wand using access holes. CORROSION PROTECTION TO STRUCTURAL PART INTERIORS There has been a longstanding recommendation to apply epoxy primer, as well as anti-corrosion compound, on the inside of rails and pillars and rocker panels as a last step for structural repairs. Going back as far as the July/August 1988 I-CAR Advantage, in the article “Restoring Corrosion Protection,†is the following step for providing corrosion protection to enclosed interior surfaces: “Apply primer. Two-part epoxy recommended. Then apply anti-corrosion compound.†The reason given, is that on areas where the coatings have been entirely removed, this is a two-step process that is replacing the two original coatings, zinc and E-coat. During research for the recently updated I-CAR course, Corrosion Protection (CPS01), I-CAR asked several product and vehicle makers if this is still the most frequent recommendation. I-CAR was told it is not, due to several reasons. These include possible primer adhesion problems on these surfaces, the lower prevalence of epoxy primer at repair facilities, the increased popularity of self-etching primer, changing primer chemistries, and an increase in the effectiveness of anti-corrosion compound. E-coat is the best corrosion protection material that will ever be applied to a vehicle surface, and aside of the weld backside, the enclosed interior areas have E-coat. Still, there is a concern among repair facilities for longevity of repairs, retaining corrosion warranties, and assurance that there is one more layer of protection, especially in the rust-belt areas. For these reasons, and more, several facilities will continue to apply epoxy primer in addition to anti-corrosion compound to enclosed surfaces as a standard operating procedure. Primer Requires a Cleaned Surface Product makers have a concern with adhesion if these backside areas are not cleaned properly. Any surface to be primed must be cleaned, both mechanically and chemically. If applying epoxy primer inside rails and other structural parts, the surfaces must be cleaned before the part is assembled. This requires sanding followed by a thorough chemical cleaning, especially the joint area backside to remove coatings. There might be access to a rail joint, if the joint is near the very tip of the rail and the rail is open-ended up through the joint location. Other than a situation like that, there isn’t enough access for proper cleaning after welding, so it must be cleaned before assembly. Anti-Corrosion Compound Alone The recommendation from the product makers and vehicle makers that I-CAR communicated with during research for updating the I-CAR course, Corrosion Protection (CPS01), is to apply anti-corrosion compound alone. Anti-corrosion compound, applied as a mist coat using a wand inserted through access holes or from the end of a rail, is designed to protect enclosed areas from corrosion (see Figure 1). The proper application technique should treat the backsides of the welds. Excess material should creep into the flange areas, sealing off those areas from moisture. At least one vehicle maker, Chrysler LLC, recommends a double application of anti-corrosion compound (see Video). AC_FL_RunContent( 'codebase','http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=9,0,28,0','width','320','height','240','src','8-04-11','loop','false','quality','high','pluginspage','http://www.adobe.com/shockwave/download/download.cgi?P1_Prod_Version=ShockwaveFlash','play','false','movie','8-04-11' ); //end AC code Video: Chrysler Collision Repair Manager Doug Craig explains that Chrysler recommends applying two coats of anti-corrosion compound. Do Not Use Self-Etching Primer It is still recommended to not use self-etching primer inside enclosed areas, because it doesn’t form a barrier like epoxy primer and would eventually break down. Self-etching primer must be coated with another product, and it would be difficult to see inside an enclosed area whether or not the primer is completely coated by the anti-corrosion compound. Conclusion The recommendation to apply epoxy primer followed by anti-corrosion compound inside an enclosed area is not included in the updated I-CAR course, Corrosion Protection (CPS01). When using this two-step process, the surfaces must be cleaned for the primer to properly adhere. The more general recommendation is applying anti-corrosion compound alone. The instructor-led (live) I-CAR course, Corrosion Protection (CPS01), has been refreshed. It includes updated manufacturer recommendations, as well as an updated presentation. Watch for this course in your area. For course details and to register, visit the I-CAR website. For comments or suggestions on the Advantage Online, please contact I-CAR at advantage@i-car.com. var _gaq = _gaq || []; _gaq.push(['_setAccount', 'UA-17694430-1']); _gaq.push(['_trackPageview']); (function() { var ga = document.createElement('script'); ga.type = 'text/javascript'; ga.async = true; ga.src = ('https:' == document.location.protocol ? 'https://ssl' : 'http://www') + '.google-analytics.com/ga.js'; var s = document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(ga, s); })(); Terms and Conditions | Privacy You should note their suggestions about the useage of all materials , self etch primers , epoxy primers and rustproofing compounds. This noteable as this is somewhat changed from their original recommendations in past bulletins.
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