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HybridZ

Car wants to start, but won't


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I rewired my 260Z similar to that of a 240Z to get rid of the safety and emissions wiring. Running an Arizona Z intake with 390 Holley, 280ZX distributor, and 280ZX alternator. I have plenty of spark (before the re-wire I had none) and when I go to start it, all it does is crank. If I pour gas into the primaries then it would try to start, I'll get some popping, but it just doesn't start. Electric fuel pump works. The needle valve on the secondary side is set at the right height but I can't seem to get the primary side high enough to get that trickle of fuel to come from the hole on the bowl. I have the needle valve adjustment thing on the top of the bowl out as far as it will go and it's still not coming out. It's a brand new carb too, not a used one or anything. Anybody have any ideas? Should I try to return the carburetor to Summit and have them replace it with another?

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Well I'm more an EFI guy myself, never messed with a holley honestly. I had triple webers once but with those you just change the jet size. I guess the holley is kinda like lawn equipment as far as adjustment? A spring under the needle valve and you screw it in or out to adjust flow? Try taking the jet out and inspecting it for damage or debris, also check the hole it goes into. Maybe some casting flash or something got in it?

 

Either way, if you dump fuel in and it doesn't start only pops, sounds like your timing is off.

 

Fuel air and spark and it will fire.

 

When you checked your spark, did you put in a spare plug to check or actually use a plug that was installed in the motor?

 

-Ed

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I don't know what the fuel pressure is because it's the factory fuel pump and I don't have a gauge or anything. I figured if the secondary bowl fills right with no problems, the primary one should too. I guess I'll just have to take it off and see if there's anything visibly wrong on the inside of it. When I checked for spark I used one of those spark testers you clip to ground and it has an adjustable gap by screwing the part in and out. I had a blue spark jumping about 3/8" on all 6 cylinders.

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Well, the car starts now but at a high RPM. My tachometer doesn't work but I would have to guess about 3000-3500 RPM and if I let it sit for a couple seconds it just gets higher. The bowls fill and are set right now, I started with the idle mixture screws 1.5 turns out but closed them up to .5 turns out and it still doesn't it. Still does it with the fuel pump unplugged too. Could this be timing related?

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I played with the timing. Advancing it allowed me to get it down to about 1500 but wouldn't go down anymore. Idle adjust screw all the way up (not pushing on throttle), idle mixture screws 1 turn out. It won't start up with the timing advanced that far though so I have to retard it back in order to start it. I had the vacuum on the distributor off, but then I tried manifold vacuum and port. None of that seemed to make a difference. I'm new to working on something this old so it's all new to me.

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Is it possible your dist. drive spindle is clocked wrong? Like maybe a tooth off? Try setting your motor at TDC 1 and removing the distributor and looking at where the spindle comes up in that housing, I'm not with my FSM but I believe spec is like 5* from the center line with the smaller portion of the spindle facing towards the front of the car? Hope that helps!

 

Spencer

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