jkgts1 Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 Hey guys I'm at the point of plumbing the brake system and had some questions. I am running a 15/16" master with disc brakes front and rear, and planning on using a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. #1 do I need to run the stock brake light indicator, I think that is what the manual calls it, I guess it just tells you when your fluid is low? Its the second item on the left in the picture. #2 the new master has two wires coming from the resevoir caps, are these for the indicator lights? #3 I don't need to reinstall the stock PV if I am using the adjustable Wilwood, do I? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbhead Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 I'm also interested in the same answers or other options? 1) Can you leave the stock proportioning valve in and put the adjustable proportioning valve down the path? Please show pictures of your setups. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkgts1 Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 (edited) Okay, so I'm just going to plumb everything as stock and I'll just run the adjustable proportioning valve inline on the way back to the rear brakes. I do have another question. I have an easwood flaring tool, which is supposed to be pretty good. This is what the flare looks like when I finish, image below. There is a little ridge on the back of the flare, do you think this will cause leaks? The ridge is the little shadow on the flare. It is very hard to get my camera to focus on something this small. I am using Cunifer alloy brake line, and I put a little anti-seize before flaring like the instructions say. I cut the tubing with typical mini tube cutter, got rid of inside and outside burrs. Any thoughts? Edited May 4, 2010 by jkgts1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkgts1 Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 Here is another pic with the fitting against the flare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mayolives Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 (edited) QUOTE: "There is a little ridge on the back of the flare, do you think this will cause leaks? " Probably not. Have you tried to touch it up a bit with emery clouth or a small file? But your best option would be to redo it and get the flare as smooth as possible. I tiny leak can make you crazy when detected after it's all back together and the dreaded drip shows it's nasty face. Edited May 4, 2010 by Mayolives Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkgts1 Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 QUOTE: "There is a little ridge on the back of the flare, do you think this will cause leaks? " Probably not. Have you tried to touch it up a bit with emery clouth or a small file? But your best option would be to redo it and get the flare as smooth as possible. I tiny leak can make you crazy when detected after it's all back together and the dreaded drip shows it's nasty face. No I haven't tried to touch it up yet. But this is the 5th practice flare I have made, being extra carefull each time, but they all look the same. I just would hate to plumb everything and have everything leak, that would suck. Is there really a way to test these without it being all hooked up? Probably not huh. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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