Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Mayolives last won the day on April 17

Mayolives had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About Mayolives

  • Rank
    HybridZ Supporter

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    North Myrtle Beach, South Carolina

Recent Profile Visitors

6576 profile views
  1. How bout a wild guess? Years ago my Jeep Cherokee had a noise not unlike the one you describe. Turned out to be leaves in my hvac duct under the dash.
  2. I use the Valvoline generic.
  3. I have 944 style cv axles and a Quaife differential in my s30 road race car. It has big HP and TQ numbers. I used Valvoline Hi-Temp grease in them with no problems. I suspect most good grease brands, including the new synthetic greases will also do the job.
  4. I've been waiting for an ignition part from the manufacturer here in the States (Fuel, Air, Spark) for several weeks and I'm told it could be a few more weeks wait. My research shows there are no other retailers who have what I need in stock. The part is listed on Whitehead's site but with no one answering thier phone and after reading all the above negative comments about them, I've decided not to risk deal with them. Perhaps all the comments should sound the "buyer beware alarm" to this community until Whitehead can prove to be a worthy supplier again. I'm not part of the cancel culture
  5. QUOTE "borrow or buy an impact wrench. Electric if you don’t have an air compressor. That’s your best bet." I've read several post about using an impact to remove the fill plug in an s30 diffenential. That would be a real trick. Due to the angle needed and obstructions around it, there is no way an impact wrench will work!
  6. Follow-up on the differential fill plug that I could not remove. I followed some of your advice and heated the AL case. I tryed to not put direct heat on the plug itself. I did this several times (cycles). Then again used my 20" cheater pipe on the open end wrench and finally out it came. After refilling it with Synergyn gear oil, all is well! Thanks for the help.
  7. I've read post after post about Datsun engine color, and I've found a number of venders who offer spray cans. Who offers quart size Datsun blue engine paint?
  8. All the above advice well taken. I do have all the bells and whistles, ie: air, impacts, too many tools and Datsun stuff all around. I've yanked and tugged on a many R180/200 diff and trans plugs for longer that I'll admit but never had to use heat to make one move. Perhaps I'm now just getting too weak. I'll use some heat, with the precautions stated, and fell better than making a bone head move without asking for advice first. Never too old to learn new tricks! Thanks.
  9. After draining the differential for routine service, I can't loosen the 17mm fill plug in order to replace the fluid. I've soaked it with penetrating fluid, taped on it with small hammer, used a dead blow hammer and a "cheater" pipe but to no avail. Can I use some heat from a butane torch to heat around the nut without damaging the cover gasket?
  10. I have been dealing with Zcardepot for a number of years. Hardly a month passes that I don't purchase from them. And yes, they haven't been answering phone calls since the China virus came along. But they have always answered my emails in a timely manner since then. IMHO, they are a solid place to do business with, far better than MSA. Perhaps this situation is a product of our new world where emails and text messages vs phone calls and in person, or "eye to eye" contact is becamming a thing of the past. I'm becoming an old guy and prefer personal contact but I'm trying to deal with the
  11. From one old timer to another, welcome back.
  12. Did you take a close look at the old gear oil that was drained from the gear box? Was any metal visible in the drain pan? Have you checked the half shafts for play in their u-joints?
  13. Also, I didn't address the front brakes in my post above. After removing old system and cleaning/ painting what was needed, I installed new rotors, calipers and pads. Touqued them to spec. Be sure to use brake lube on the long pad pins. Pad instruction usually will show you where to apply lube. There is no brake adjustment for the pads. They will take care of themselves. Be sure to bleed all the air out of the entire systems you had apart. Can be accomplished with a power bleeder or a friend with strong legs. Don't over tighten the large nut on the spindle when you replace the hub. D
  14. Recently I was in a simular situation with my 78 280z. It had been resting for many years. I had to beat the rear drums off. All the rear hadrware was rusted and in bad shape. After measuring the inside diameter of the drums, I found both to be larger than spec. They must have been turned in the past. The front system was rusted, had bearing grease and brake fluid where it shouldn't be. The brake and clutch master cylinders were filled with dark gunk and the master vac was really rusted and probably leaking vaccume. I decided not try to save any of it and replaced all these parts wit
  • Create New...