Jump to content
HybridZ

Mayolives

Donating Members
  • Content Count

    575
  • Donations

    125.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2
  • Feedback

    0%

Mayolives last won the day on December 24 2005

Mayolives had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About Mayolives

  • Rank
    HybridZ Supporter

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Myrtle Beach, South Carolina

Recent Profile Visitors

6215 profile views
  1. vintagezparts.com He has several sets listed. His name is Allan and is in NC. He's a good guy to deal with and knows about our old z cars.
  2. I have AZC's 5 lug set up. They looked great and have been on my road race car for a number of years with no problems. I have other AZC suspension parts that have worked well and Dave has always helped me when needed.
  3. If you need it to look original, I guess your choices are limited to the expensive replacement boot. However, my friend just had the same problem but got creative and used a can of black colored Flex Seal. He formed it in the hole in the firewall to resemble the original and did a really nice job for about 10 bucks and a litttle time. I guess it's all about what you can live with!
  4. My 260 did not have right side glass or parts inside the door when I brought it home. I tried window parts from a 73 240 and they were NOT the same and would not fit. I finally located a 260 regulator, etc that I needed. Have you removed your glass, regulator and track to clean and lube it? Over time, these parts get gunked up with dirt etc. and I suspect this is your only problem. Both windows on my 78 280 were very hard to roll up or down but after a good cleaning, etc, they work like new. They aren't that complicated. When you are in there you can lube the door lock parts and they should also work much better. I used old school white grease but their may be better products to use. A factory service manual has good daigrams and instructions that can help understand you window parts.
  5. I just found lots of good information about the "what and how to" for vacuum booster hose at Classiczcar site. I believe I'll insert cooper tubing in a good hose to get the correct OEM bends. Sounds easy!
  6. While replacing brake and clutch master cylinders, and vacuum booster on my 78 280z, I was not surprised to find rotten vacuum hose for the booster. New OEM style hose seams to be NLA. Can I use heater hose or AN hose to replace it? Are ther other hose choices?
  7. I have a T5 / G-Force gear box that I've been very happy with. It's in my L6 turbo road course car that makes a bunch of power. It make some straight cut gear sounds but has stayed together for some time.
  8. NewZed, I suspect the pump isn't doing what I need. I purchased it locally from Nissan parts dept so who knows what I have. I will check it's output pressure before I do anything else. Although it's "new", I purchased it about 18 months ago so there will be no exchange from Nissan. Thank you for your help.
  9. My 78 280Z has only 15lbs (steady) of fuel pressure. It has been setting for several years since I bought it and was running rough. I had the injectors rebuilt, replaced the fuel pump, the pressure regulator, both new from Nissan along with all rubber hoses, belts, new plugs, wires cap, rotor, valve adjustment, etc. Fuel pressure has not improved. Is my next step replacing the fuel damper? I have never had a problem with a damper in my decades of playing with these cars.
  10. Thank you NewZed. Again an old Z dog learns new tricks! Your post with pictures pertaining to the differences in distributor pedestals was an eye opener for me. After again really looking at several sets of distributor parts left over from my two dizzy rebuilds (280zx & 280Z) I discovered the differences in both pedistals and fixing plates that allow for adjustment. After pairing a set properly and reinstalling my distributor for the umteenth time, all is well. I have all the adjustment I need and have the car timed just right. I even remembered a short video I saw some time ago at the california datsun site pointing out what pedestal and fixing plate works with the different distributors. SORRY for the two vids below. I wanted to just post a link and don't know how to remove the two vids below.
  11. My timing issues continue. My original distributor had a broken magnet assembly and frozen breaker plate assembly but I found replacements in excellent condition. I completely dismantled the original distributor, cleaned and lubed it per FSM. Reassembled it with a new pick up coil, a new vacuum controller, cap and rotor. Put it back in the car but still could not get timing to advance beyond about 2 degrees. I've tried three different E12-80 IC units but they did't help. Then decided to go the "280Z HEI conversion route". I used a D6F5-03 distributor that has same timing curve as the original except it has a few more total advance degrees listed. Cleaned it up, installed new pick up, cap and rotor then put it in the car along with new HEI unit mounted properly on inside fender with nut-zerts and added additional grounding points. Engine starts but I still can't get but a few degrees timing and runs like a pig. I would think that moving wires in cap would correct this but when I try to rotate wires in either direction on the cap, it's way out of time. I've been playing with old z car for decades but I'm really stumped. Do I have a bad ECU? I'm not sure what else could effect the timing like this. I put # 1 piston on top of the comp. stroke with the timing mark on zero degrees and the # one wire on the cap aligned with the rotor that points where I have always found it to be on many Z's I have timed. I sure need some advice before I find a bridge to jump from. (Not so)
  12. I need to replace the distributor vacuum controller on my 79 280zx. I've searched all the normal Z car suppliers that I've use in the past but no one has them for sale. Where can I find one?
  13. Quote "If the side seals leak, you'll have to remove the cap and replace them as well. " So to be clear, in order to replace these side seals I would need to remove the sump (oil) pan. Doing it now with the transmission out would be a problem due to rear mount not being installed and having to unbolt the front motor mounts to raise the engine in order to remove oil pan. Is there any reason why I couldn't remove the rear main cap to install side seals after the transmission is back in the car? Removing the oil pan then sure would be easier.
  14. I ordered a new rear main seal for my 79 280zx from Zcar Depot. Their listing stated an oem seal. Along with a normal circular type rear main seal that I'm acustomed to, I receive two other hard rubber seals measuring about 2 5/16" long by 1/4" by 1/8". Zcar Depot's part number is 200-717. I don't remember using these seals in the past. What are they for? The original engine is in my car.
  15. So, the Amazon listing was "out of stock". I ordered bushings from MSA but had to keep the outer shells in place. After tourching out the old rubber parts, the new bushings fit great!
×
×
  • Create New...