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Mayolives last won the day on April 17

Mayolives had the most liked content!

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About Mayolives

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    HybridZ Supporter

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    North Myrtle Beach, South Carolina

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  1. I've read post after post about Datsun engine color, and I've found a number of venders who offer spray cans. Who offers quart size Datsun blue engine paint?
  2. All the above advice well taken. I do have all the bells and whistles, ie: air, impacts, too many tools and Datsun stuff all around. I've yanked and tugged on a many R180/200 diff and trans plugs for longer that I'll admit but never had to use heat to make one move. Perhaps I'm now just getting too weak. I'll use some heat, with the precautions stated, and fell better than making a bone head move without asking for advice first. Never too old to learn new tricks! Thanks.
  3. After draining the differential for routine service, I can't loosen the 17mm fill plug in order to replace the fluid. I've soaked it with penetrating fluid, taped on it with small hammer, used a dead blow hammer and a "cheater" pipe but to no avail. Can I use some heat from a butane torch to heat around the nut without damaging the cover gasket?
  4. I have been dealing with Zcardepot for a number of years. Hardly a month passes that I don't purchase from them. And yes, they haven't been answering phone calls since the China virus came along. But they have always answered my emails in a timely manner since then. IMHO, they are a solid place to do business with, far better than MSA. Perhaps this situation is a product of our new world where emails and text messages vs phone calls and in person, or "eye to eye" contact is becamming a thing of the past. I'm becoming an old guy and prefer personal contact but I'm trying to deal with the
  5. From one old timer to another, welcome back.
  6. Did you take a close look at the old gear oil that was drained from the gear box? Was any metal visible in the drain pan? Have you checked the half shafts for play in their u-joints?
  7. Also, I didn't address the front brakes in my post above. After removing old system and cleaning/ painting what was needed, I installed new rotors, calipers and pads. Touqued them to spec. Be sure to use brake lube on the long pad pins. Pad instruction usually will show you where to apply lube. There is no brake adjustment for the pads. They will take care of themselves. Be sure to bleed all the air out of the entire systems you had apart. Can be accomplished with a power bleeder or a friend with strong legs. Don't over tighten the large nut on the spindle when you replace the hub. D
  8. Recently I was in a simular situation with my 78 280z. It had been resting for many years. I had to beat the rear drums off. All the rear hadrware was rusted and in bad shape. After measuring the inside diameter of the drums, I found both to be larger than spec. They must have been turned in the past. The front system was rusted, had bearing grease and brake fluid where it shouldn't be. The brake and clutch master cylinders were filled with dark gunk and the master vac was really rusted and probably leaking vaccume. I decided not try to save any of it and replaced all these parts wit
  9. https://www.classiczcars.com/articles/electrical/clock-repair-analog-70-78-z-round-r52/
  10. vintagezparts.com He has several sets listed. His name is Allan and is in NC. He's a good guy to deal with and knows about our old z cars.
  11. I have AZC's 5 lug set up. They looked great and have been on my road race car for a number of years with no problems. I have other AZC suspension parts that have worked well and Dave has always helped me when needed.
  12. If you need it to look original, I guess your choices are limited to the expensive replacement boot. However, my friend just had the same problem but got creative and used a can of black colored Flex Seal. He formed it in the hole in the firewall to resemble the original and did a really nice job for about 10 bucks and a litttle time. I guess it's all about what you can live with!
  13. My 260 did not have right side glass or parts inside the door when I brought it home. I tried window parts from a 73 240 and they were NOT the same and would not fit. I finally located a 260 regulator, etc that I needed. Have you removed your glass, regulator and track to clean and lube it? Over time, these parts get gunked up with dirt etc. and I suspect this is your only problem. Both windows on my 78 280 were very hard to roll up or down but after a good cleaning, etc, they work like new. They aren't that complicated. When you are in there you can lube the door lock parts and they
  14. I just found lots of good information about the "what and how to" for vacuum booster hose at Classiczcar site. I believe I'll insert cooper tubing in a good hose to get the correct OEM bends. Sounds easy!
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