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Everything posted by Mayolives

  1. Sounds like you have a decent cooling system in place. I live in the steamy South and run about the same setup on my 3 liter. Have you checked your temp gauge? Just how hot is it really getting? Are you pushing coolant out the over flow? Also, you may have have a bad/worn out water pump.
  2. What am I missing here?? Buy a new one from AZC.
  3. Replace or not to replace. The R200 is a little stronger vs the R180. But there are other choices. It's all about what you can spend. The R200 with Quaife limited slip is a well-tried choice but costly. The Driveshaft shop in Salisbury, NC has a reputation for building axles for go-fast cars and they are easy to work with. They fixed me up when Nissan CD axles would not last long in my road course car. https://driveshaftshop.com/
  4. Are you aware of the 280zxt cv axle lengths? They are different! I'm not sure why Rockauto says their axles can be used on either side. There is information on this site about the subject. My experience with the OEM cv units with a high HP car was not good! I suspect they are not much stronger than OEM half shafts. I finally had to have custom 930 Porsche units built and they held up just fine. PM me if you would like my input. Also, I live in SC at the Beach.
  5. I have been ask to help install a Holley 4 Barrel 8006/390 carburetor and it's linkage on a Clifford intake. The car is a 73 240Z, with a P90 head. A Lokar throttle linkage kit was purchased from MSA. If my memory serves me, the Clifford intake has provisions for a water lines. Where should I connect the water lines going to and from the intake? Also, can I mount the carburetor in either direction, front to back or sideways. I have an Arizona Z Car intake with a Holley mounted transverse (side to side) on my 260Z. My intake is open where the Holley mounts to it and does not have a divider. Is the Clifford open on top like my AZC intake? Any other thoughts on this Clifford intake that might help? I have searched the internet and other Z car sources to no avail.
  6. This build sounds really cool. I have owned many z cars over past decades including one 240/350SBC that was fun. But the rest of that car was not up to all the 350's power. Your choice of the Art Morrison chassis and all the rest sounds like the ticket and should be far better to any of the many modifications that most of us are accustomed to. I'm staying tuned!
  7. Looks like I've been around since 2003. So much good stuff to help keep these z cars alive and well. Sure hope we can keep it going for the next batch!
  8. Hello Newbie, Looks like you have found a decent looking car. Should you need help with most anything related to your new z, there is tons of good information here at HybZ and over on ClassicZcar. Searching past post will reveal discussions on most topics and well thought out questions usually are answered by those who have traveled the road before. Welcome.
  9. The comments above all seam valid. I'm assuming you have rotated the distributor in both directions while having the same result. There are several different distributor bases or "fixing plates" as the FSM calls them. Each was designed to go with different distributors. Using the wrong one will greatly effect timing adjustment. Just my two cents worth based on a similar problem I had with my 280zx. Somewhere, perhaps here on hybridz or at classiczcar there is a post with a link that has photos of each base and describes to which distributor it matches up with. I haven't been able to locate it but hopefully someone with point you to it.
  10. I had to spend a bunch of time adjusting the hood parts, fenders and doors and hatch after my last painted z car was done. But it did all come together. I suspect your first statement about the front end damage is where you need to start to solve your problem. Take some measurments especially side to side from one fender to the other. Do you have another car to compare your findings against? You may need to do some dissassembling before you can move some things back to where to belong. Take your time. Even very small out of whack measurments can cause big alingment problems.
  11. 21010-P7525 Genuine Nissan #21010P7525 Water Pump (nissanpartsdeal.com)
  12. Sure can! In the least year I have replaced u-joints in my 73 240 and my 78 280Z. Easy Peezy!
  13. Just a thought.....J B Weld??? I've used it for many things and the stuff really works. Part needs to be super clean before application. When it's completely set after a few days it becomes very hard. Then sand lightly until it's smooth.
  14. Are you asking about hardware for intake and exhaust manifolds? I have used zcardopot stud kit several times. The parts are nice quality stainless. https://zcardepot.com/collections/stainless-steel/products/intake-and-exhaust-manifold-stainless-steel-stud-kit?_pos=1&_sid=374b9089d&_ss=r
  15. I normally don't reply to "what if" post but this is an interesting one. I have owned a number of Zcars for decades and have meet many other owners who want/need a new harness. I too have reworked sections and wished I had new parts to deal with. It's a tedious task an not so fun. The solution is usually attempting to repair what they have or buying a used one that is probably no better than what they started with. Certainly the demand exist but will owners pay the price? I can't answer that one!
  16. I'm not sure what your question ("situation") is. I have used the POR 15 fuel tank cleaning system 2 times and it worked great. If you followed the instructions and made sure the pick up plumbing was free and open, all should be well. What exactly are you having a problem with?
  17. Mayolives

    Hybrid Z Wind Tunnel Test

    I was part of this test. We spent a lot of time prepairing and deciding what and how to test. Our time in the tunnel was expensive and limited. I believe we gathered good and usefull information. Looking back, this was a really fun and eye opening experience for me.
  18. How bout a wild guess? Years ago my Jeep Cherokee had a noise not unlike the one you describe. Turned out to be leaves in my hvac duct under the dash.
  19. I use the Valvoline generic.
  20. I have 944 style cv axles and a Quaife differential in my s30 road race car. It has big HP and TQ numbers. I used Valvoline Hi-Temp grease in them with no problems. I suspect most good grease brands, including the new synthetic greases will also do the job.
  21. I've been waiting for an ignition part from the manufacturer here in the States (Fuel, Air, Spark) for several weeks and I'm told it could be a few more weeks wait. My research shows there are no other retailers who have what I need in stock. The part is listed on Whitehead's site but with no one answering thier phone and after reading all the above negative comments about them, I've decided not to risk deal with them. Perhaps all the comments should sound the "buyer beware alarm" to this community until Whitehead can prove to be a worthy supplier again. I'm not part of the cancel culture and I don't like the word "boycott" but if a duck walks like a duck and quacks, it's most likely a duck!
  22. QUOTE "borrow or buy an impact wrench. Electric if you don’t have an air compressor. That’s your best bet." I've read several post about using an impact to remove the fill plug in an s30 diffenential. That would be a real trick. Due to the angle needed and obstructions around it, there is no way an impact wrench will work!
  23. Follow-up on the differential fill plug that I could not remove. I followed some of your advice and heated the AL case. I tryed to not put direct heat on the plug itself. I did this several times (cycles). Then again used my 20" cheater pipe on the open end wrench and finally out it came. After refilling it with Synergyn gear oil, all is well! Thanks for the help.
  24. I've read post after post about Datsun engine color, and I've found a number of venders who offer spray cans. Who offers quart size Datsun blue engine paint?
  25. All the above advice well taken. I do have all the bells and whistles, ie: air, impacts, too many tools and Datsun stuff all around. I've yanked and tugged on a many R180/200 diff and trans plugs for longer that I'll admit but never had to use heat to make one move. Perhaps I'm now just getting too weak. I'll use some heat, with the precautions stated, and fell better than making a bone head move without asking for advice first. Never too old to learn new tricks! Thanks.
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