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Everything posted by Mayolives

  1. My timing issues continue. My original distributor had a broken magnet assembly and frozen breaker plate assembly but I found replacements in excellent condition. I completely dismantled the original distributor, cleaned and lubed it per FSM. Reassembled it with a new pick up coil, a new vacuum controller, cap and rotor. Put it back in the car but still could not get timing to advance beyond about 2 degrees. I've tried three different E12-80 IC units but they did't help. Then decided to go the "280Z HEI conversion route". I used a D6F5-03 distributor that has same timing curve as the original except it has a few more total advance degrees listed. Cleaned it up, installed new pick up, cap and rotor then put it in the car along with new HEI unit mounted properly on inside fender with nut-zerts and added additional grounding points. Engine starts but I still can't get but a few degrees timing and runs like a pig. I would think that moving wires in cap would correct this but when I try to rotate wires in either direction on the cap, it's way out of time. I've been playing with old z car for decades but I'm really stumped. Do I have a bad ECU? I'm not sure what else could effect the timing like this. I put # 1 piston on top of the comp. stroke with the timing mark on zero degrees and the # one wire on the cap aligned with the rotor that points where I have always found it to be on many Z's I have timed. I sure need some advice before I find a bridge to jump from. (Not so)
  2. I need to replace the distributor vacuum controller on my 79 280zx. I've searched all the normal Z car suppliers that I've use in the past but no one has them for sale. Where can I find one?
  3. Quote "If the side seals leak, you'll have to remove the cap and replace them as well. " So to be clear, in order to replace these side seals I would need to remove the sump (oil) pan. Doing it now with the transmission out would be a problem due to rear mount not being installed and having to unbolt the front motor mounts to raise the engine in order to remove oil pan. Is there any reason why I couldn't remove the rear main cap to install side seals after the transmission is back in the car? Removing the oil pan then sure would be easier.
  4. I ordered a new rear main seal for my 79 280zx from Zcar Depot. Their listing stated an oem seal. Along with a normal circular type rear main seal that I'm acustomed to, I receive two other hard rubber seals measuring about 2 5/16" long by 1/4" by 1/8". Zcar Depot's part number is 200-717. I don't remember using these seals in the past. What are they for? The original engine is in my car.
  5. So, the Amazon listing was "out of stock". I ordered bushings from MSA but had to keep the outer shells in place. After tourching out the old rubber parts, the new bushings fit great!
  6. Yes Nissan still has them. About $2.50. Thanks
  7. I've been following your build for some time. Very impressive! Please continue to post your progress.
  8. maseraticompound@gmail.com Maserati Compound This guy has Datsun parts that can be hard to find. Searching is a little strange because I have found z and zx parts mislabled but if you take a look you will find good pictures of what he has and he ships fast.
  9. I'm about finished up with the rebuild process on my 280zx five speed transmission. The new bearings and syncros are in place on the shafts. But I just discovered that I don't have the oil gutter in my adapter plate. It moves oil from one gear and sends it through to the other side by means of an actual gutter. I only have the tube part and the gutter extension is missing. I suspect it was damaged / removed by the bearing that had exploded beside it. I can't find one listed on all my parts sites. Does anyone know where to find one? I could make one but I would rather not devote the time to do so. Who has some gear box parts lying around that they can part with?
  10. I haven't used Zcar Depot's kit before. The parts are made in Japan so I feel ok about them. It's too late for me to search but I thought the parts fron Nissan were NLA. As to the mainshaft nut, I'm aware of it's potential to losen. I have a new one to use and the original one was still tight when I removed it with 144k miles driven. Perhaps the problem is how it's installed by the rebuilder? Fingers crossed!
  11. I have a complete car, 83 280zx turbo. I removed it from a barn where it had sat for many years after the barn roof had fallen on it. It is an auto trans car, but a have a five speed that I can part with. It is a complete car with only 90K plus miles on it. All original but the body is really rusted beyond use. Please contact me if interested.
  12. The slip joint from Z Car Depot fits like a glove and slides easily. Now the cover on the driveshaft gos past the gear box seal. All is well.
  13. Answering my own question! The transmission shop that advertised here is Alpha Transmission. I called them, spoke with the owner who told me he didn't advertise here on this site and the he "didn't fool with old Datsun transmissions" Too much! So here I go again, off into another adventure rebuilding it myself with the help of my FSM.
  14. There was a transmission repair shop advertising here on the opening page. I believe it was in Charleston, SC but I can't remember their name and haven't been able to find it. Does anyone remember who they were? I have the 5 speed out of my 79 280zx and pulled it apart to find out what was making a little noise in 1st and 2ed. The gears look good but one of the bearings is in really bad shape. I have a rebuild kit from Zcar Depot with all the bearings, syncros, seals, etc but I've decided not to tackle it myself. Does anyone have a recommendation of a good shop that knows these gear boxes? I'm in SC.
  15. Thanks for the reply. I checked the Energy Suspension site and it says these are not compatable with my 79 zx. Afterwhich I tried to contact thier tec. support by phone for dimensions but was placed on "endless" hold then they auto disconnected me twice. I'm stuck until I can be sure these bushings will fit my crossmember. Do you or anyone else have actual experience with them? Thanks again, TB.
  16. Yes. That's the one. But if you look closely at it there are no bushings installed. My crossmember is good but it needs new rubber bushings.
  17. After removing the five speed from my 79 280zx I discovered worn out crossmember bushings. I have contacted a long list of Z parts suppliers that I've worked with for years but no one has them. Energy Suspension doesn't list them either. Any ideas?
  18. After a lot of searching here for "driveshaft" stuff, I have learned yet another thing about these old z cars. That would be about the 22 spline count slip yoke based on a 24 count spline. Meaning 24 splines with two cut out on apposing sides. I tried a driveshaft from my 79 280zx in this five speed and it slid into the gearbox easily. So apparently I need to find another slip yoke for the 73 240z driveshaft that I'm trying to use. Z Car Depot list one (part # 800-923) with 24 spline count that skips 2. However, the listing states it is for a 280z not a 280zx. Will this slip joint fit my 5 speed? It never ceases to amaze me that after decades of playing with z cars and many years reading lots of post here, that I discover something an old dog like me didn't know more about.
  19. I installed a five speed (late model, type "B") from I believe a 1981, 280zx into a 73, 240Z. I used a drive shaft removed from another 73, 240z, 4 speed, parts car. The driveshaft appears to be about an inch too long. I had a bit of trouble sliding the yoke into the transmission. I checked the splines on both the yoke and the transmission with a small, machinist ruler and they looked perfectly straight and clean. But I still had to lightly tape the yoke into the gear box. I know the joint needs to slide a little when the car is in motion but it' a little tight. Also, I'm not sure the yoke is in the transmission far (deep) enough. Should the outer piece (shield) that goes around the drive shaft spline' go all the way into the transmission and touch the area where the real seal is? I still have about an inch to go before it would touch the gear box seal area but I don't want to force it all the way down in there. Any ideas?
  20. New Zed, I took your advice by removing the distributor again to see if it was different from the original one. The base and fixing plate are the same. Although the vacuum controller has a different shape compared the old one it operated just fine when I checked it with my vacuum pump. The new distributor is very clean and has a Nissan Factory Remanufactured sticker on it. I'm now concerned that I may have a distributor from another year 280zx that won't work with my 79. I thought that I had a list of distributor numbers that were used in the different years but can't locate it. FSM doesn't appear to show numbers either. I have them for most all years. The original one was a D6K8-02 8903. The one I'm trying to use is a D6K 80-03 A8918 and I'm not sure what year car it came from. Do you know where I can find a distributor part number listing or information on what year 280zx distributors are interchangeable? I still have the options of trying to swap magnets from old to new without breaking them or converting to a 280Z unit using the HEI deal...... Now for the really "stupid me" story. Before I removed the distributor to compare things, I attempted to try rotating the wires on the cap one position. It started with a "jerky" move that out of time engines do, then coughed back through the intake so I shut it off. Shortly thereafter I was standing in a puddle of oil. After a little investigation, I discovered my newly blown out rear main seal. My little job just got a lot bigger. Not to mention I just installed a new clutch and pressure plate recently that is now probably oil soaked and trashed. Bummer! Thanks again for your help.
  21. The IC ignition unit is an E12-80 on both my original and newer distributors. I will swap the old one back in to see if that works. The fixing plates do have a bottom screw that will provide more adjustment, but I've tried that with no help. I'm reluctant to attempt swapping magnets for fear of breaking another 40 plus year brittle old part, while removing the stator on top. I'm certain that's how the original one was broken. The stator screws were frozen in place and I had to tap on my driver to get them moving. If all the above doesn't work out, I have a 78 280 distributor and the GM HEI conversion deal that I'll install. Thank you for your help.
  22. Although my #1 plug wire was at the correct #1 mark on the cap, I tried rotating my wiring one move clockwise with poor result and then rotating them counter clockwise with the same bad result. When trying to start the engine with both moves it was "way" out of time. Could a bad IC unit cause my problem? I haven't compared differences in base plates from on year to another yet but as I remember they are all the same.
  23. While replacing several needed maintenance items, ie; new injectors, fuel press. regulator, a few wiring issues, etc., I managed to damage the magnet assembly in the distributor. Apparently the magnets are NLA so I located another distributor and now I'm having a timing issue. I've removed and replaced more than one distributor and usually know what I'm doing. After installing my new found zx distributor, I can only get a few degrees of advance when the distributor is rotated full clockwise. When rotated all the way, the IC unit comes in contact with the first sensor in the thermostat housing. (either the thermatime switch or temp. sensor whichever, i forget). Is it possible that I have a 280zx distributor from another year that will not work with my 79? This one is in there with # 1 at the top of compression stroke, 0 mark aligned with mark on damper, rotor dead on with #1 mark on one cap and #1 wire. Engine starts and runs. But like a lazy pig with the few degrees of timing I can get. Any ideas??
  24. My apologies for the delay with my response. Sure looks like the one. Let's make a deal and I'll send some dollars. Thanks, Tom.
  25. Actually, I have years of wiring experience from a total body rewire on my 77 to many other repair deals. I'm well stocked with connectors, tools, shrinks, test eq and etc. You have provided a "distributor wiring install for dummies" guide that will scoot me through the process. Thank you for all your advice, TB.
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