bjhines Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 That is very nice work Jon. I really like the old school crinkle paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 12, 2010 Author Share Posted December 12, 2010 Thanks John. I just wasn't quite happy with how it turned out. If I had cut the holes in the dash myself and it looked all crappy I would have left it, but since it looks so nice I decided to try again. First I tried some "spatter paint". That looked pretty bad, so I took it all down and tried again with the crinkle paint. It really wasn't any better, but the smooth spots were in the same place. I just hit it with a red scotchbrite Roloc and I'm going to try again, if that doesn't work I'll wait for it to stop raining and try again, but we have rain every day in the 10 day forecast so that might be a bit time consuming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 12, 2010 Author Share Posted December 12, 2010 (edited) Well painted it again for the last couple hours, finally got the whole thing to wrinkle up with no shiny spots. Solution? If you get a shiny spot, don't try to fix it. Paint the whole damn thing over. I was able to fix one spot and so after that I kept trying to chase the shiny spots down, just kept making it worse and worse. Finally I put a THICK coat on (amazed there were no runs) laid the thing flat on the work bench and started in with the heat gun. You can really see when it gets dry to a certain point and starts to crinkle. I started at one end and worked to the other, and then hung it up to dry. I did manage to blow a couple specks of dirt onto it, but at this point I think I'm done. Patience for this paint is wearing thin. Edited December 12, 2010 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 I was wondering how you were going to mount it. I think that's really clean and functional. On the paint, maybe the heat gun was leaving cold spots? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 13, 2010 Author Share Posted December 13, 2010 I didn't have it planned out, that's just what seemed best when I put it in the car. As to the paint, I think if you could have a machine spray it so you get a uniform thickness (or a better human painter), then there wouldn't be a problem. Spraying by hand, I think it's just my inconsistency that is the issue. The heat gets it to crinkle up, but you can put all the heat you want on it and if there isn't enough paint, it's not going to do anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snailed Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 I like how you mounted the panel. That's going to work really well I bet. Any tricks you're going to employ to make the wiring/lines look nice on the back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 14, 2010 Author Share Posted December 14, 2010 I like how you mounted the panel. That's going to work really well I bet. Any tricks you're going to employ to make the wiring/lines look nice on the back? Thanks. Yes, I do have a trick up my sleeve; I'm going to let someone else do it for me. I suck with electrical. I could probably get it done, but Dave, the guy who does all the MSA wiring harness upgrades is local and owes me one, so he's going to handle most of the wiring for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 (edited) Look great Jon! Are you though about a top to the dash? I'm in the process or figuring out a dash for the Bad Dog, and I'm planning on a having a top that has the same krinkle finish. The main reason is glare. I've been in race cars with minimalistic dashes where the reflection off the windshield from everything behind the instrument panel is distracting. A solid black, low glare panel fixes that. The actual instrument panel will be satin black so that P-Touch labels will stick. Are you putting the switches on a panel covering the ash tray cup? I'm putting the start, fuel pump, and ignition switches there. Pete Edited December 14, 2010 by z-ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 14, 2010 Author Share Posted December 14, 2010 No switches in the ashtray area. Actually the 70 doesn't have as large a space there, the ashtray was up at the front ot the console on top of the fuse block. I think the dash is close enough to the wheel that I should be able to reach the start button while strapped in, that was the goal anyway. I was thinking about reflections on the windshield too, and I can do a top if necessary, but I was going to try without it and see how it goes. If I need a top later it will be easy enough to tie one into the top mounts and the holes at the windshield. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 (edited) No switches in the ashtray area. Actually the 70 doesn't have as large a space there, the ashtray was up at the front ot the console on top of the fuse block. I think the dash is close enough to the wheel that I should be able to reach the start button while strapped in, that was the goal anyway. I was thinking about reflections on the windshield too, and I can do a top if necessary, but I was going to try without it and see how it goes. If I need a top later it will be easy enough to tie one into the top mounts and the holes at the windshield. You've got the same ashtray pocket as every other 240Z I've seen: Wiring the switches there is definitely more work, but having them there is convenient, and easy to get to. I'm also adding a low oil pressure switch to kill the fuel pump and ignition in case of oil pressure loss or crash. Pete Edited December 14, 2010 by z-ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjstcroix Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 Look great Jon! Are you though about a top to the dash? I'm in the process or figuring out a dash for the Bad Dog, and I'm planning on a having a top that has the same krinkle finish. The main reason is glare. I've been in race cars with minimalistic dashes where the reflection off the windshield from everything behind the instrument panel is distracting. A solid black, low glare panel fixes that. The actual instrument panel will be satin black so that P-Touch labels will stick. Are you putting the switches on a panel covering the ash tray cup? I'm putting the start, fuel pump, and ignition switches there. Pete Hi Pete, Here's a kit that will accomplish what you're looking for... http://www.donjer.com/products.htm#Suede-Tex I know a few guys in rally have used these kits. The results are best measured in the preparation and application of the kit. Regards, Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 14, 2010 Author Share Posted December 14, 2010 (edited) You've got the same ashtray pocket as every other 240Z I've seen. Wiring the switches there is definitely more work, but having them there is convenient, and easy to get to. I'm also adding a low oil pressure switch to kill the fuel pump and ignition in case of oil pressure loss or crash. Hmm... I thought the early cars had a smaller area there. I know the shifter hole is in a different place and the consoles are different. Anyway, no, I'm not putting the switches there. You mentioned that low oil pressure switch on another thread, I still think that might not be the best idea. Consider that you'd be most likely to lose oil pressure in a hard corner, and that shutting off the spark while at the limit of traction might have some adverse unintended consequences. Edited December 14, 2010 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 Maybe one with a latch circuit so if it ever drops below a set PSI a light turns on (and stays on even if it goes over it), runs a timer for an x amount of seconds, then shuts off the ignition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 that is soooooo sexy. I wish that was around before I did the my s13 dash I would have asked you to make another... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Maybe one with a latch circuit so if it ever drops below a set PSI a light turns on (and stays on even if it goes over it), runs a timer for an x amount of seconds, then shuts off the ignition. It's more than to just protect the engine, it is really for cutting fuel in case of a crash. I don't plan on loosing oil pressure as I'm using a Nissan comp pan with external pickup. I may also have an accusump in there as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbpowered280z Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 there was one guy on here a couple years ago who built a dash out of 2 or 3 pieces of aluminum and bolted it all together, with the top piece being removable so you could access the wires and such. it turned out pretty wicked and it was my inspiration for the dash i am building. no pictures of mine, cause HEY, i have no money but anyways, i think there are pictures floating around somewhere around here. love the pic above though, SUPER simple and clean, LOVE IT Lloyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjandriesen Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Nice job. Lacking the fabrication skills many of you had I started with a kit from S&W Racing http://www.swracecars.com/store/Dashboard-Kit-with-Tach-and-4-Gauge-Panel-OSCARItem_184=95-110-4.aspx The biggest issue was cutting int the right shape as the dash out of the box is extremely large. Finished result isn't bad with the help of textured paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbpowered280z Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 ^^^ looks good man! you should make some plates for the end of the dash or something, just to finish it off. if not, still looks good! Lloyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrismiller5157 Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 Wow looks correct, clean, and simple. Good job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted February 25, 2011 Author Share Posted February 25, 2011 tjandriesen, I was just looking at your pictures and it looks like your tubing bender really crushed the tube on the A pillar just above the dash bar. I'm not sure if that will pass tech, but if it does I would suggest you add an "FIA bar". This is a bar that goes from the bottom of the A pillar bar to the halo bar and A pillar junction with no bends. I only say this because if that car goes over I wouldn't trust that crushed tube to keep the roof off of my head. Dash looks nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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