Chassis bracing

[JMortensen]

I think I know someone who has one for sale. I'll check out Craigslist too. I'll keep the Miller & Lincoln name in my head when looking. Any model in specific for the tasks I have ahead of me? Will this one MIG welder do all the things I need it to do? (fenders, frame rails, strut bars, etc etc.) Or will I be needing more then one kind?

Millermatic 135 and 140. Not too familiar with the Lincoln model designations, but I think the SP135 is basically the same as the MM135.

 

There should be no metal in your cage or structure of the car thicker than .120". I think NHRA might require .180 for mounting plates. 110V will do everything you need just fine. If you wanted to weld up a trailer or weld 1/4" or thicker metal, then a 220V welder would be the right call.

[New-to-240z]

Thank you very much for all the help along the way. I'll be taking the class next month. I'll try to keep my eyes open for a welder. Should I purchase some scrap metal to try working on? Any specific types? I'm sure they'll tell me in my class, but anything would be a big help to get ahead of time.

[bjhines]

Hobart also offers similar 120v models.

 

Make sure that whatever brand you buy, you can also buy replacement parts locally. Relays, potentiometers, wire feed rollers, wire guide liners, reel motors, various plastic reel holder parts, gun tips, gas shields, gun handles, etc are all parts that will wear out or break. I bought a 10 year old Millermatic-140 and practically rebuilt the thing after another year of use. I should have bought the Hobart that Northern Tools put on sale for $400 with the gas regulator kit and the welding cart.

 

You will also need to buy/lease a tall welding gas cylinder and your first fill-up of welding gas. Don't get the small cylinder, they are for mobile rig use and run out of gas quickly(well before you run out of wire).

 

Feeding this thing power.......Check you wiring. I use a 20amp breaker and have heavy guage wire running to the shop. I do use 102v and it works great. I had a problem using it at a friend's house because he had 15amp breakers, crappy wiring, too many things on one circuit, and the panel is a long way from the garage. Even with everything else unplugged, it would begin kicking the breaker after a long period of use.

[JMortensen]

That Hobart is the only good alternative to the Lincoln and Millers, so far as I am aware, but it doesn't have infinitely adjustable controls. I can't recall if it's wire speed or juice that it has 4 or 5 click settings for, but I see that as a pretty significant drawback. You would be able to use it for everything you want to do, no doubt, but you won't be able to dial the welder in quite as closely.

[New-to-240z]

Wow, how much am I looking at for the gas cylinder?

[Dans toy]

on my 260z I've add a 2x3-.085 full frame with a 4 point roll bar. My remaining concerns are the stiffness in the door area. I'm considering an angle brace off the side of the rollbar passing along side the seat to a point at the feet. I'd prefere not to do this if it isn't necessary .I will be running an engine that puts out about 550 hp & 600 tq(small blower), an automatic transmission (2000 stall),and 255 drag radials. Would appreciate knowledgeable opinion . Thanks Dan

[wagon jon]

Wow, how much am I looking at for the gas cylinder?

 

 

The cost of gas cylinders depend on what size you run. The most popular is the 80cf size. The bottle and the 75/25 (argon and carbon dioxide mix)will run you about 150ish dollars.