GAZRNR Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 I'm installing a urathane air dam and have 2 concerns: 1) it heavy and flexs more than I thought it would 2) will paint stick to it or just crack & peel if it gets flexed? anyone have experience with these parts and painting them? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 We've got some excellent painters as members here who I'm sure will chime in, but from what I remember on the old GM cars that used 'endura' bumpers (plastic covers over steel under-structure) a additive is added to the paint to allow it to flex. With the right primer it will stick just fine, a good paint supplier should be able to give you the correct products for the job. The biggest problem IMHO will be keeping the air dam from hitting anything (I.E. parking curbs on a lowered car) and rock chips both of which will obviously be harmful to pretty paint. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 I have one of these too. I plan on bolting a length of aluminum angle underneath the top middle horizontal section to keep it from drooping at speed. Any paint shop knows what flex additive is and can get you some to mix into the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted March 6, 2002 Share Posted March 6, 2002 For BC/CC, if you don't have the setup, make sure you use a urethane paint that doesn't contain isocyanates. This is the chemical in most newer paints and is odorless. It won't kill you right away but you could become sensitized to it and the next time you try to paint and you inhale or abosorb the stuff, you will have bigger health problems. There may be some urethanes and clears without ISOs, maybe PPG's OMNI line? If you do go with urethane, get a free air respirator aka supplied air system. The HobbyAir is a popular and affordable model. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted March 6, 2002 Share Posted March 6, 2002 To add more info, I think the House of Kolor primers and Shimrin bases are ISO free but don't take my word for it. I would ask the shop or the manufacturer what the best paints are for your application. If you plan on mixing different paint brands (in terms of one brand on top of another), make sure they are compatible first. Otherwise you'll get lifting and peeling. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 RacerX, many thanks for that education! Obviously, I heard about flex additives before the days of urethane paints. I do remember now the guy at the body shop a few years ago saying that a base/clear urethane would be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted March 8, 2002 Share Posted March 8, 2002 RacerX, Good info! And I thought paint stripper hurt my skin, I don't want to find out what ISOs will do to it Hey, do you know, can I use PPG OMNI MP180 2K Sealer with my 1.4 tipped HVLP gun? Recommended sizes are 1.5 to 1.7... Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted March 8, 2002 Share Posted March 8, 2002 Helps a lot! I guess I guessed right about the smaller tip size and the atomization, but just wanted to confirm with other people. And yes, this will be done prior to topcoat. I chose this one because it's tintable. Although I may end up going with Glasurit, I've heard it's a lot easier to work with in terms of fish eyes, etc. Thanks again, Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmanadam Posted March 9, 2002 Share Posted March 9, 2002 Thanks alot for sharing. Got home tonight and my urethane air dam was sitting on the porch. All I needed to know, one more time from a great site. Thanks again for sharing Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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