GAZRNR

I have the fiberglass MSA bumpers on my 78. I had to make brackets for the front & rear. Since there is no protective value I was not concerned with overly strong brackets. The side mount on the right side was a bit of a challenge on the rear.

I ordered a bracket set from Summit that fit a 1978 malibu V8 and made sure I got the alt spacer from the bone yard. It give me a very nice clean fit and wiring was a snap because it was in a very similar location to stock.

Thanks for the input. Has anyone found a bigger master cylinder that will work with the datsun brake booster? May an 1 1/16 bore?

Yes, I am running disc brakes on all 4 corners and have a firm pedal. 15/16 master cylinder, 8 inch power booster (stock 1978Z), wilwood NDL 1.75 calipers front and 240sx single piston calipers rear, wilwood proprotiong valve in rear line to balance system. My issue is brake performance, my Integra and Taraus out brake the Z. I swapped out the wilwood Q compound street pads for hawk hp pads and finally had a much harder bite I was looking for, but the squeal was so bad I replaced them with hawk hps pads to get rid of the squeal , now the car stops only slightly better that with the wilwood Q compound pads. In short if I tried to slam on the brakes and lock the wheels it will not happen. This is what I am needing to fix before I need to make a hard stop in a short distance that ends badly. I contacted hawk and was told there was no quiet pad for the street. I contacted wilwood tech and was told that with an 8 in power booster and 15/16 master cylinder I should be using 1.38 piston calipers. I am not generating enough clamping force with the 1.75 pistons. To use the 1.75's I would need a 1 1/4 master cylinder with a 8 in power booster or 1 1/16 master with non assisted brakes. I plan on ordering the NDL 1.38 piston calipers and will report back after I make the change. Rusty

After you verify there are no vacume leaks you may want to bump the timing to 10-12 and 6 PSI fuel pressure. That's what I am running on a similar setup.

After reading the posts I didn't see if you had checked your fuel pressure and set the float level on both bowls. Next check your timing and set it 12-14 make, then make sure the firing order is correct. If you get it to idle check the vacume and your may need to see what's in there for a power valve. The engine will run with a 750 DP and I noticed a number of other carb recomendations. For what it's worth on my 350 I tried a 600 Edelbrock, Holley 650 DP and spent time tuning each carb for my application after all was said & done I ended up with a 750 CFM stage 2 Jet Quadrajet on my 350. Many will say the Quadrajet is the best carberated way to mix your fuel & air for the street...to beat the Quad you need to step up to EFI. I not trying to get into a whats the best...argument, look into it and make your decision. Rusty

Thanks for all the input. The wilwood NDL calipers have 2 bleeders on each side top & bottom so there are no issues getting the air out and way it is made it doesn't matter what side they go on. The wilwood Q compound pad is supposed to be their recommedned pad for the street. I followed the MFG bedding process and the brakes have been like I described since I installed them. I get no screech or dust, it's like they are not wearing at all. No hard bite and long stops. I am looking into the Hawk HPS (F) compound PN: HB237F-.625 which is their street pad for the caliper I am using. Has anyone tried this pad series and had the results they expected? Could there be an issue with the vacume brake booster? How can you tell if it is worn out or dead?

I have a concern with the brake system I put together on my 78Z. If I am driving normally on the street and have to brake hard for some reason the initial brake "grab" is not that hard bite your get in any average street car, in fact I cannot lock the wheels no matter how hard I hit them, once I get some heat into the brakes they seem to be more to what they should be but no lock up. After driving and using the brakes hard a few times I am surpirsed that they are only warm to the touch, the same test with my integra almost burned the skin off my fingers. Slower controled stops are straight & predictible but longer than they should be. On the street you need that hard bite sometimes to avoid whatever comes up. I am using an 81 master cylinder, Wilwood 4 piston calipers with wilwood street pads, wilwood 1.25 curved vane rotors up front, in the rear I have Modern's rear 240sx brake kit. I am using a wilwood proporting valve for adjusting the rear brake balance and SS lines on all 4 corners. I have blead the system a number of times and I do not have a spongy pedel, the foot pressure is consistent. I did this upgrade expecting an agressive brake system that would not fade out. Any thoughts? Bad vacum brake booster? Need a more agressive pad up front? Thanks, Rusty

You should have a steady 6 PSI at the carb inlet. Do you have an inline fuel pressure gauge & adjustible fuel pressure regulator? Have you done a plug check yet to verify the lean condition? Have you changed out any other parts or is this a new problem? I am running a 1406 performer carb and could have run it right out of the box after adjusting the choke. I wanted to tinker with it some to get it where the motor responed a little better. My understanding is your carb is easier to adjust on. After you set the fuel pressure and check the fuel filter, I would look to vacume leaks, electrical problems, crossed spark plug wires and proper timing before I would start tuning on the carb. Also, verify that you are getting a full squirt from the accelerator pump. Then write down everything you do and track your changes.

I got the Cell Phone & AAA - Thanks The Datsun space saver rim will not clear the calipers. I am looking for someone who knows what other brand on space saver would match up on the lug patten with a rim that is large enough to clear the caliper. Thanks, Rusty

I need to come up with a spare tire solution as I am taking my Z on a long road trip in July. I am using the standard 4 lug Datsun Z bolt pattern but have a big brake kit on the front and disc conversion in the rear. I am using 17 in wheels now and might be able to get away with a 16 in wheel on the front as a spare. Any thoughts on a space saving spare? Thanks, Rusty

One thing to consider in your T56 swap. I cut the spring to ease the shifting into reverse, trust me it will be a challenge if you leave it as is. After I finished I thought that I could wire the solenoid into the brake light switch and keep the spring as is.

Thanks Guys, I would have tried it with the seal on the car and wondered why I couldn't get it done. Rusty

I need some advice on if I should use any sealant on the new rubber front and rear window seal. The glass is out of the car and the window channels are clean & freshly painted. The rubber seal has a slot in it where the seal slides into the tongue end around the window opening around the opening. When I removed the old seal it appeared not to have any sealant in the "grove" with possibly just a very little in the corners & center sections where it met the body of the car. This appeared to be more of a "hold it in place" use of sealant vs a weather sealing situation. Any thoughts?? Also, once I get the rubber seals in place I need to install the glass. When I removed the glass there did not appear to be any sealant in that area either. My plan was to clean the glass, then use some light weight oil in the grove to help work it into place. Is the the correct way to get a leak free windshield & rear window installation? Thanks, Rusty

Thanks guys I'll get those windows out! Hey Dudeboy, I remember you...how's your Z?

Grenade300 I have one that I did not install. I got the IMS 3 piece spoiler from West Wings. I am willing to let it go at a great price but you got to pay shipping. If you are interested I taped it to the car as a test fit so I can send you a couple pics. I have had no success posting a pic here so send me a PM with your email address & I'll send you a pic. Rusty

I'm stuck. I'm trying to remove the side windows on a 78Z I am getting ready to paint. Is there a trick to getting the metal trim off without destroying it? I got all the other glass, windshield, hatch glass and door glass out but the side windows have me stumped. Anyone??? Thanks, Rusty

RED Z Your post & write up with pictures is fantastic. I have been thinking about this swap for a while. I have a 78 so I have the correct stub axels but I have 2 questions I hope you can help me with. 1) what years ZXT300 Z31 do I need to get the CV's for? 2) can you use the sway bar in the swap? Thanks, Rusty

Guy, Wrap 1 1/2 rounds of masking tape on the SS hose and cut it in the middle of the tape with a dremel or exhaust cut off tool. I used an air powered exhaust cut off tool. Leave the tape on and apply motor oil on the hose end, use an air ratchet and install the end on the hose. Lube up the treaded end & the inside of the hose and install it. Put a peice of tape or something at the edge where the end seats on the hose, this is so you can see if you push the hose out when you tighten up the fitting. After doing 2 ends I got the process down pretty good. Remember measure twice & cut once! I came up short a couple times as I was learning how the ss lines worked, and I was picky on how the fitment looked . This will work for you. Rusty

I paid $1200 for my T56. You need one out of a 93-97 Camaro or Firebird. That one looks to be mated to a new style motor. The "stuff" you need to finish the installation will equal the purchase price.

I am running a carberated 350 in a 78 Z and the wiring was not as hard as I thought it would be once I got started. I removed the harness from the car because it was easier to work with and got rid of the FI relays not used. I looked for my notes on wiring but could not find them so I will go from memoray. Do you have the JTR book? If not then get one. 1) Alt - the blue wire gets wired into the large white with red stripe that goes thru the fusable links to the battery. You will need the correct pulg for the GM alt you are using and this is an easy swap. 2) the black with yellow stripe goes to your starter "S" clip. 3) I used the black with white stripe to get power to my pos on my MSD box and get power to my fuel pump. I can't help you on the ground for your distributor but you should trace it back to where it was snipped. I also would not worry about the low oil pressure fuel pump cut off switch at this point. Get it running then wire in you accessories. Hope this helps, Rusty

The 650 should be fine on a 327...maybe just a tad over sized but not to much. If you are hitting a stumble when opening the secondaries and then it cleans up it could be a lean condition. I have not used a holly for a few years but there a couple things you can try to fix this: 1) adjust the acceleator pump to give a bigger squirt of gas and or jet up 2 number sizes on the secondaries. this hsould fix it.

-an3 & 1/8 NPT are close but not interchangeable. I got my brake parts from Orme Brothers in CA. T 818-885-1414 I worked with Jim, told him what I was trying to do and he got me what I needed. Rusty

I had the same frustrations. I solved the problem by using 1/2 wide masking tape, here is what I did: 1) put a tight 1 time around the ss hose where you make the cut, 2) use a cut off wheel or dremel to get straight cut, 3) lube up the inside of the fitting and use an air ratched to get it seated on the hose, 4) lube up the threaded end and watch to make sure you do not "push" the hose out of the fitting. Once you do a couple you will get the hang of it and be very pleased with the finished product. Rusty

If money is not the issue then it comes down to personal preferance. I have a 330 hp carberated V8 and went with the T56 and a 3.90 rear gear. I was concerened that the 3.90 would make 1st useless but after 200 miles of dirving I found that the car is like a 5 speed with an overdrive. 70 MPH in 6th is 1800 RPM. I like my setup and enjoy driving a stick shift car but if I would do the build over I would use a built TH200R4 so I could keep 2 hands on the wheel! Rusty