Rear ended 280

[Lucifersam]

Sorry to all those expecting carnage

 

Okay Before i became the owner of my 280 it was rearendend(is that a word?), the back is like the surface of the moon, the shop who "fixed" did an absolutely horribly job, and to top it all off it looks like someone beat it up with a sledge on both rear quarter panels. Also some of the things on the undercarriage is out of whack.

 

My question is this

 

Has anyone else had this happen to them, was it fixable, and do you know of a reputable shop in Houston that can straighten this car out?

 

thanks

 

Alex

[Indri]

Depends how mangled the body is. These things are unibody which means everything is tied together via the shell. It sounds like it was a pretty hard hit. My guess is the car is totaled.

[Lucifersam]

well my rather grafic description of it was a little harsh. taking some measurements it seams that it is square right to about half way down the hatch, and on the underside there is only one actually bent structural piece, and the suspension still lines up properly. so it looks worse than it probably is.

 

I'll post pics in a little while, the main thing is that I don't know who to take the car to to get it fixed, or a ballpark cost of good body work.

 

thanks,

 

Alex

[Indri]

on the underside there is only one actually bent structural piece, and the suspension still lines up properly

 

 

Well, you said that only one structural piece was bent. I'm not sure which one you're talking about, but that could just be the beginning. If it's bolted/welded to something - which it has to be - then it probably pulled whatever it's attached to out of alignment, and that pulled on something else, and so on and so forth. Also, the rear quarters are tough to work with sense you can't "just replace them". If the metal is too badly creased, you'll probably need to cut out the metal and patch it back up with some fresh sheet metal - worked to match the body lines of course. A lot of man-hours for this.

 

What was the total impact speed of the collision?

 

 

I hate to be a downer, but just fixing the rear quarters alone will be a couple thousand, I would imagine, for good work. Not to mention whatever is messed up under the car. The "surface of the moon" comment leads me to believe that it was a home bondo job (a lot of it too) and therefore the metal underneath is probably still mangled.

Edited June 25, 2010 by Indri

[Lucifersam]

okay I have pictures of the damage. I have no idea of what the speed was because it took place long before the previous owner took possession of it.

 

I also knew from the beginning that this car was going to be a long shot.

 

I just do not know of a place in Houston to take it to that would do the work correctly.

[sticky280zx]

car is junk, get another shell or runner, I am in dallas and have a few of each. I learned a long time ago, unless you love welding, dont get a rusty car, and unless you have a bodyshop/frame straightening equiptment, dont buy a smashed up car. There are far too many good shells (or atleast ones worth welding a floor pan(s) in) to be buying crap z's especially in TX

[Stivva]

That may be a little harsh. I bought my car smashed. But I got quotes from a reputable body shop before I handed of the cash. That way I was certain that I knew the car I was buying could fixed, properly and came in under my budget

[Indri]

Oh my. Is the whole backend of the car buckled down? It seems to be scrap. Sorry buddy. Good parts car though.

[Lucifersam]

it is buckled up...

 

but does anyone know of a good old school body shop in houston

[ModernS30]

it is buckled up...

 

but does anyone know of a good old school body shop in houston

 

Old school? Why old school? High tech would be better. It will be done better. Just because they do more new cars doesn't mean they can't do an older one just a good.

[jasper]

The pics are difficult to "READ". Washed out/lack contrast.

It appears to be kinked in the sail panels. Easy pull for a good body man. RUST is the costly part.

The last 2 pics are misleading.

Almost all the cracks in the sound deadner run LENGHTWISE, not indicative of a compressive force from the rear(mostly plain old dried up 30+ year old cracking sound deadner)

 

Get a RESPECTED/KNOWLEDGEABLE pro's opinion.

[Lucifersam]

car is junk, get another shell or runner, I am in dallas and have a few of each. I learned a long time ago, unless you love welding, dont get a rusty car, and unless you have a bodyshop/frame straightening equiptment, dont buy a smashed up car. There are far too many good shells (or atleast ones worth welding a floor pan(s) in) to be buying crap z's especially in TX

 

 

unless you know of one for less than 800$ with a title i am SOl.