Guest Anonymous Posted March 23, 2002 Share Posted March 23, 2002 I started using the paint today on my front suspension and will initiate this thread for comments about POR 15 products.............................................The stuff is fairly thick and a little goes a long way. For general purpose paint work (less than show quality),forget about the bristle brushes or spray gun ///Use one of those cheap foam paint pads on the end of a stick instead of a paint brush. The consistency of the paint and the foam paint pad "brush" work good together for a fairly smooth surface.The paint appears to take a long time to dry. I am using semi gloss black and it is fairly shiney. I also got some silver but not too impressed with the yellowish color sample I was shown but a sterling silver was advertised in the new catalog that I read after returnning home.The Metal Ready leaves a zinc-phosphate finish and etches the metal for the paint. This chemical solution is sprayed on out of regular spray bottle. This proceedure does not conserve on the supply of Metal Ready and a lot can be used in a hurry.This stuff dries fairly fast leaving a chalky surface on the metal. I planned to spray this "rust" paint but it will be about as easy to foam pad it on the engine bay in the silver color.I also plan to do the rear suspension with this black paint also. I bought a quart of black and silver and just may have enough to finish front and rear suspension in black and return the yellow silver for sterling silver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 24, 2002 Share Posted March 24, 2002 I found that I can probably get the POR 15 on the smaller suspension parts faster with the sponge pad brush than I can with a spray gun . I did buy the solvent/thinner for spray painting. I am considering using a spray gun for the engine compartment application. As for pictures , I will just have to take the time to figure out how to combine my Olympus 35 mm camera HP scanner and computer to post the pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 30, 2002 Share Posted March 30, 2002 Racer X.. I will be using the spray gun to paint the engine bay. I am detailing the engine compartment and have removed about all the spot welded brakets (pita! pita! pita!). I started out using a drill and screw driver chisel and started doing more damage than the wire welder was capable of filling.Got out the air chisel and really did some more damage with the panel cutter chisel!! Found the assortment of chisels that came with the air tool and found one that had a curved spade shape with a square cutting end. Put a sharper edge on it and went after the OEM transmission mount connected in the tunnel.I forgot about the spot welds and concentratred on removing the entire mount housing from the spot welded strip of metal. I squarely placed the flat chisel bit on the housing and let it dance its way back and forth on the outline of the mount without too much pressure from my hand and let the air tool do its work.The curved flat bit began cutting a straight line and penetrating the sheet metal. All the spot welded sheet metal transmission mount (part) was left attached to the transmission tunnel and will add support to the tunnel and be almost invisible with under coating applied to it. The trick is to let the curve spade chisel sqaurely jack hammer it's way through the sheet metal straight on and not slice its way through at an angle because you cannot control the pulsating action and will put a hole right through the body panel too.The POR Marine Cleaner is strong and good for cleaning and also etches because it messed up a piece of polished aluminum that came in contact with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 31, 2002 Share Posted March 31, 2002 I opened the can of POR15 silver and found the paint had separated which took a good deal of stirring. I prepared my little Dvilbliss detail gun and thinned the paint with POR solvent.It took quite a few coats to get started and cover every thing.I finally got a good tack coat that would hold a final coat. During this process I used the sponge brush to smooth out some runs. The paint being silver is very forgiving but the sponge brush strokes tended to leave a streaked appearance with silver hue color differences. I do not know if this was due to the age or condition of the paint or just the nature of silver paint in general with all the metallic particles but that seperated paint said OLD to me.The final coat took out the streaks and about three runs developed on the drivers side where at the eleventh hour I sponged on paint to an upper hidden spot which excess dripped to the viewable area. The Tommahawk Z front clip hides about every thing anyway. For Silver paint ,spraying is about the only option on large surfaces. I also sprayed the strut tower/firewall bars and they came out great looking. The finished silver came out more pleasing looking than I imagined. Now if I redo everything about six more times ..... it will be show quality.The black POR15 did not have the paint seperation and required only a cursory stir was required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 1, 2002 Share Posted April 1, 2002 POR15 saga takes a snag. Went out this morning to admire my yesterday's engine compartment paint job and found major paint blemishes on the passenger inner fender panel. I painted outside during a warm and sunny day and in the evening put on the Tomahawk front clip and covered with car cover and a tarp over that for the night.Apparently the passenger side drew moisture from the ground during the night or ????? I saw no water droplets in the paint as I was spraying and used a water filter. Also the bubbling does not appear to go through to the metal or original paint but is between the POR15 coats and contains no water or moisture inside the blemishes. Why one side and not the other when both were painted identically and (were DRY to start with). The only area that had rust corrosion was under the battery tray and it suffered no paint blemish damage. I will contact the POR15 rep and inquire what THE ***^%%##. Maybe I should have put a heater in there? The paint was fairly dry when covered! I will have to take a (triangular) detail sander and repair the damage when the paint is fully cured. I wanted the engine bay finished so I could start putting the modified coilover front suspension on the car.This paint is fairly tempermental for large areas. When opened the paint was seperated and appeared old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted April 1, 2002 Share Posted April 1, 2002 I'd think the water in the air afterwards might help it cure, since its a moisture absorbing urethane. I've found this paint to be VERY sensitive to the tinyest bit of oil, etc. It seems to fish-eye very easily. I now use either brake-clean or Prep-sol to clean up and I wipe several times before painting with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 1, 2002 Share Posted April 1, 2002 No fish eye blemish!! Could I have thinned it too much because these blemishes appear in the category of orange peel????? When I put this job to bed it looked great with a couple of runs on the drivers side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted April 1, 2002 Share Posted April 1, 2002 I'm with Pete... For undercar, or suspension parts, and if you use the metal prep, the stuff is great... But I wouldn't use it in the engine bay again without using a regular top coat of some other kind over it. POR15 is hard to apply... I'll be re-doing my engine bay at some point, leaving the POR15 that is there in place and employing another POR15 product to prep the POR15 painted surface for a regular finishing paint. I got so that I won't trust POR15 by its self. On the floor pans I added a rubberized roll on bedliner to both sided of the metal after using the POR15. Good Luck! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 When the paint cures, I will detail it out and repaint. I am now also considering some other paint to cover the POR 15 but that requires another tie coat to work properly. It does not end ($). One side looks good and the other side looks ##########.At least I have plenty of paint to spread around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 5, 2002 Share Posted April 5, 2002 The POR15 representative will give me credit on the quart of silver that I was unsuccessful with. The color and consistency of silver paint is just too difficult for me to successfully paint an engine compartment with but is good on small parts. I painted the POR15 black over the the re-furbished silver that cured quickly to successfully sand and prepare.Did not clog up the triangle shaped sand paper on the Skil detail sander . One triangle velcro sheet lasted the entire job. The black is a lot better and easier to hand paint and air spray.I used my Dvilbliss small detail gun with thinned paint. I have my fingers crossed that it will not turn into a pumpkin over night. The black covers a lot of area. The silver also begins to show this greenish tint after a little exposure to the sun!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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