10cjennings Posted July 4, 2010 Share Posted July 4, 2010 (edited) My MSA Front/Rear strut bars arrived in the mail yesterday for my 1978 280z. I got the rear installed last night (Looks like a really solid part, great fitment, appears to be of high quality), and it didn't take more then half an hour. Today I moved on to the front strut bar and I ran into a small problem. Where the bar mounts up to the passenger side strut there's some (appears to be electrical) piece in the way. It looks like something I could modify/relocate but I'm not even sure what it is. Any help ID'ing the part, and any ideas on how I should go about modifying it would be great. It's the lower left cylindrical piece, to the right/above the top of the strut. Edited July 4, 2010 by 10cjennings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 4, 2010 Share Posted July 4, 2010 Magnet valves for vacuum regulation of various emissions, heating, and A/C controls. Dropping it down further on the strut would be the most expedient thing to do so you clear the bar... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10cjennings Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 (edited) Magnet valves for vacuum regulation of various emissions, heating, and A/C controls. Dropping it down further on the strut would be the most expedient thing to do so you clear the bar... Just drilled another hole in its mounting plate so that it got spaced off the strut tower another inch or so. The strut bar dropped right in, taking the car out on it's first drive I'd say there's a definitely noticeable difference in the front end responsiveness when pushing it hard in the corners. Even with my basically stock set-up. I'm sure as more suspension upgrades are installed the added stiffness will be more significant. For $120/each I'd say these definitely aren't the suspension upgrades which will give you the biggest improvement for your dollar (Bang/Buck), but if you're planning on doing a large amount of suspension upgrades (as I'm currently getting into) these are parts I'd definitely add to the list. Edited July 5, 2010 by 10cjennings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 That all depends on how much a windshield costs to replace... Without the front triangulation (and lacking a roll bar) hooking hard in a corner resulted in a cracked windshield for me... Didn't occur after the strut bar install, and with stickier tires and more rear grip to boot! The front really feels 'tied together' with them up there. One triangulated to the firewall is even a better feeling. It's hard to sell stock save on crispness of turn in, but push some torque and you can literally feel the front end twist around when you're on the power hard coming off a corner! (Kaaa-RAAACK! ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 That all depends on how much a windshield costs to replace... Without the front triangulation (and lacking a roll bar) hooking hard in a corner resulted in a cracked windshield for me... Didn't occur after the strut bar install, and with stickier tires and more rear grip to boot! The front really feels 'tied together' with them up there. One triangulated to the firewall is even a better feeling. It's hard to sell stock save on crispness of turn in, but push some torque and you can literally feel the front end twist around when you're on the power hard coming off a corner! (Kaaa-RAAACK! ) Good to know, I'll definitely consider a triagulated bar. Though That's all coming after the complete bushing replacement. Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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