Guest Zachb55 Posted April 21, 2002 Share Posted April 21, 2002 Alright guys, and gals, heres the skinny, Im gonna be starting the trip down this road (the paint job) in a few days and I wanna do everything as good as I can, this will be my first job but ive got a recently aquired step dad and brother who are both very much into cars and have done multiple paint jobs on lots of different vehicles. Mine is next in line. Although I trust their knowledge completely, you guys sound like you know what your doing too, and extra opinions are always a good thing. Heres the deal, there are a few paint suppliers around here, more like Napa's that can order in any paint I need, and stuff like that. Ive read up from the archives and remember a "Peeler" product that you sprayed on and the paint came off, now this may seem like a weird question, but bear with me. Would this product also take off a possibly latex or oil based "house paint" that a stupid previous owner put on and sanded while it was still wet then painted over??? , because thats the story I got for the really bumpy roof. (check my web site for some pics in a few days, not right now because geocities is being mean again) And also after I get it all stripped out or sanded, im not decided on which one, but sanding will probably be cheaper but isnt gonna be an option on the roof as youve already read. What are all the stages of the painting process from start (lets say stripped to bare metal/bondo, who knows what I'll find... ) to finish (looks really good, hopefully)??? Im sure RacerX and all you other knowledgable members can help answer all these questions, Cant you??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awd92gsx Posted April 21, 2002 Share Posted April 21, 2002 Unfortunately, I know very little about painting...but...I have to add... Those are some of the funniest uses of smiley's I've ever seen! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 23, 2002 Share Posted April 23, 2002 Paint guru's, I'm in the same boat. I just got the 240 and I'm already giving the body some heavy ponderance (that a word?). Anyway, I ran down to the local evergreen paint store, and talked to a fellow working there who seemed pretty darn experienced. Being rather young to be doing body, I wasn't going to get suckered into buying a hvlp gun or anything.. I've stayed tuned into the paint forum here, and also have a few friends in the business, so I'm not totally virgin. I've also helped a friend do his '67 stang from stripping to spraying, so I know what I'm getting into. Anyway, what the guy at the paint shop told me was that he didn't recommend I buy kleen and stripping the whole thing down, but rather sanding down to the primer and taking care of the trouble spots, then it would be ready to paint. The time involved in redoing it from the metal, sealing and priming it.. is quite enduring I know. I never really thought I could use the primer under there. The body is actually in decent condition, little rust spots here and there, and the only real bad spot would be on the hood, none of it cancerous. What do you guys think? I'm all about not having to do work I don't have to! If I could save time/money by using the coat underneath and then taking care of the bad spots, that would be awesome. I want a good paint job, I won't be doing the painting myself, I have friends who will spray it for me as a favor, I'm buying the paint of course. Just wanted to run the idea pro at the paint shop by you guys, see what you thought. Thanks -980mak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dp351zcar Posted April 23, 2002 Share Posted April 23, 2002 Twenty + years ago I stripped my GTO down to metal and I would not recommend doing the same to a z. When you sand you are smoothing down the metal and when you strip you have to build that smoothness up. Where in washington do you live? If you live in the puget sound area I might able to steer you to some places that could advise you and not rip you off. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zachb55 Posted April 23, 2002 Share Posted April 23, 2002 I actually used to live in Issaquah about 3 weeks ago, but my mom got married and we moved down here to Raymond, which is by long beach, but ill be sure to email you with some paint questions when i get to that point if you dont mind?!?!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zachb55 Posted April 23, 2002 Share Posted April 23, 2002 if that was me you were reffering to?!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 23, 2002 Share Posted April 23, 2002 DP- Thanks for the advise. I guess i"ll plan on going down to the primer, not metal I'm actually closer to Vancouver.. about halfway between there and olympia. However, after checking out the prices at this local store, they seemed a little high (go figure, only paint shop monopoly in a car town).. i'll try and buy my stuff from the net, I bet I could save a lot by the time I'm done. So, aside from the bondo filler, what other sealer/primer should I buy? I'm taking it down to the stock primer, then smoothing it out and working on the bad areas. Would POR be good for doing the few rusty spots (non cancerous), or what sort of primer and sealer should I buy? I was planning on going with Dupont or PPG, and was told to buy uniform products, I.e. primer/sealer, paint. Also, another thing would be teh D/A sander. Now the pro at the shop sold an "economy" 6" for $45 I believe, said it usually lasted a project, Then of course he showed me his line of ultra d/a sanders. Those were like $130 but were light as a feather, and looked real nice. However, being as I have to still buy an air compressor (ahh! $$$ ), I have to save money as much as possible. Check out this DevilBiss one on ebay for ( $17!!!).. approval? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1822873273 Also, a decent HVLP gun to spray primer (and paint coats.. I MIGHT decide to spray myself).. like this gravity fed devilbiss one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1823000046 or here http://www.bradystools.com/paingun14con.html Well, hopefully some one can tell me the specific products they use(d).. My last issue would be getting an air compressor as cheap as possible that will do the job, and many other air tool jobs (sand blasting most likely, which requires lots of pressure I hear).. what sort of specs should I look for from the compressor? Gallon/psi/hp.. I'm totally new to this so any help is good help! Perhaps someone could point me to somewhere selling tools/painting supplies and equipment cheap as possible, prices are high in my town! I guess that's it for now.. I'll have pics soon, wednesday probably. Thanks in for all help! -980mak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zachb55 Posted April 23, 2002 Share Posted April 23, 2002 Thanks for the info RacerX, I live down south of olypmia too, just further west, and there arent many sources of paint/supplies around here so where are some good online places to go to get a wide variety of paints and other stuff? I need to ask dave about what type of guns we have then ill post it and see if it sounds good to you guys... -Zach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 24, 2002 Share Posted April 24, 2002 RacerX- thanks for the info, I've been reading your posts for a long time and I can vouch that we're all appreciative with your patience, and expertise. I realize how much actual opinion and options get to flying around when it comes to body work.. makes me wonder what I should do. Well, the bottom line is I just want a nice looking paint job. From doing body work with friends I've seen thats more arduous and time-consuming rather than a finesse... like spraying the coats. However, I know that prep is very very important, and I'm willing to take the time involved to get everything smoothed and sealed. Anyway, with that said.. I'm going to throw out what I have gathered to be the step by step from having ugly/rusted paint, to a nice shiney new clear. Please correct me in the places I'm wrong.. btw, I'm leaving out things like degreasing between everything and all that on purpose 1. strip areas not being painted (glass, trim, etc) 2. strip existing paint, such as Kleen aircraft stripper 3. sand all areas down with a d/a sander (80, 150 grit?), or sandblast CAREFULLY to prevent warpage 4. clean and prep the bare metal (Por 15 metal ready a good example of metal prep?) 5. this is where I get varied opinions- straight to the DP epoxy primer, or etching primer..? 6. Now the fun ( ) begins, start filling everything in, sand smooth, repeat. I'm thinking bondo for the bad areas that need to actually be filled..? As I presome epoxy primer is just a good sandalbe coat and not actually workable for filling. 6. Once everything is smooth, use the Surfacer for the base coat to stick to 7. base coat(s) 8. clear coat(s) (two stage, presuming) 9. lots of wetsanding, buffing out imperfections 10. a great looking car Of course, I left out a whole bunch of minor things, but that is from this point my knowledge on the basic steps. btw, I won't be doing 8/9, I have friends who would spray for me. I am planning on doing a viper-like stripe job similar to Terry's or Mike k's, something I don't want to mess up on. From the rust repair thread I gathered that all in all the POR 15 isn't to be used for the body panels. I have inspected down to a few spots on my 240z, and I have little or no rust underneath the paint. There are a few areas, and around the edges of the windows, but from what I gathered, if it were d/a sanded and metal prepped and shortly after epoxy primered it would be elimated from the picture, and would not come back. If there's something I've left out, please feel free to criticize me until I cry I'm not here to feel secure about my existing paint knowledge, I'm here to get all of the facts straight so that when I do order all of the stuff and begin the process I'll get it right- the FIRST time. okay, now on to the tools issue.. I read a post on air compressor and hvlp gun sizing from a while back which you posted on RacerX. Your recommended at least a 5 hp/60 gal tank for the best use of air tools, and plenty for paint. I remember reading that sand blasters needed quite a bit more flow than just painting. So anyway, with a tank that big, I guess I'm looking into some huge bucks As far as the spray gun goes, I guess i was under the impression that 1.3mm painting and 1.5mm priming tips were swappable in the hvlp guns, i.e. one gun, multiple tips. I guess not though. --***-- My formost issue is where to find decent prices on all the supplies and tools. As far as the large compressor I will be checking around tool stores in town (not just paint stores), and seeing what kind of prices I can get. Obviously buying locally saves me a bunch on shipping. However, if I can buy the DPLF40 (or whatever color) on the net, and surfacer, and beadblaster, and d/a sander, and guns and whatnot I can for sure save money compared to what the sole paint shop in town can do. If there's a place in the NW anyone knows of that I could call, or somewhere on the net that sells these things dirt cheap, please don't hesitate to let me (and everyone else on the forum) know. Thanks, and sorry about he horribly lengthy post. -980mak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zachb55 Posted April 24, 2002 Share Posted April 24, 2002 check out my site soon, i have to load my updated one from frontpage but then youll be able to see all my picture of my progress, try it tomorrow for best results ok... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToplessZ Posted April 24, 2002 Share Posted April 24, 2002 In reference to your air compressor needs. Ive heard that for painting you should have an upright tank. The upright tank cambell hausfield 5or 6 hp model is about 375.00. I believe that is probably the route im going to go if I buy one. I have also considered renting a compressor you might think about that also. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToplessZ Posted April 24, 2002 Share Posted April 24, 2002 In reference to your air compressor needs. Ive heard that for painting you should have an upright tank. The upright tank cambell hausfield 5or 6 hp model is about 375.00. I believe that is probably the route im going to go if I buy one. I have also considered renting a compressor you might think about that also. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 25, 2002 Share Posted April 25, 2002 I went and looked around town for compressors, guns, and whatnot, spent like four hours! The best I found was a Craftsman, at sears, an upright, 30 gal model, max 150 psi, 6 hp, 8.6 cfm at 40 psi, 6.4 at 90 psi.. It on sale right now for $269. That's about the size of my next paycheck I know its not that big, but would it do the job? Other tool stores sold monster 60 and 100 gal tanks, making like 20-30 cfm @90 psi, and ran about $500-700. That's a bit out of my price range. Considering I could have the body work done for nearly that much, plus the cost of paint, guns, ventilation, blah blah blah. I dropped of the roll of film today, unfortunately it takes 2-3 days to develop , so I'm thinking by friday I'll have pics detailing the body, and damage. Z yall! -980mak btw, RacerX you should have mail in your hotmail account Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted April 26, 2002 Share Posted April 26, 2002 I'd go with the Campbell Hausfeld one over the Craftsman. The craftsman oilless compressors are loud and heat the air too much (causes condensation in the lines more). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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