How much to spend on a 75-76 fuel tank?

[goodoldjam]

I took they car for a spin after getting the new turbo and wastgate on to see how much boost the spring was going to produce. Well it is running very strong at 8psi. I'm thinking it pulls to hard with the stock 240z tank and it flat cuts out. So I found a tank locally but the guy wants $150 for it.

I don't know, that seems a bit high IMO.

What do you guys think?

[turboHLS30]

That's high if your driving to pick it up. I got mine for free but I see them every once in a while in good condition for no more than $75.

 

 

[goodoldjam]

That's high if your driving to pick it up. I got mine for free but I see them every once in a while in good condition for no more than $75.

That sounds like a fair price.

I offered him a $100 and he said he was firm. So I told him I would go $150 if it was dentless and totally rust free. No email back yet but for $150 I was thinking it should look almost new. I hate it when someone says make an offer but is firm when you make one.

[letitsnow]

If it was local to me and free of any MAJOR dents and rust free, I'd snap that up in a heartbeat. I've got at least $100 in refurbing my tank along with probably 30 hours of labor, so for another $50 I'd take that any day. I did go a little beyond the normal refurb, but that was the only way I felt sure that I wasn't wasting my time or money.

[Tony D]

I'd have to agree, that is nothing compared to getting one with a 'radiator shop rebuild' that looks good, but internally has pinholes in the pickup tube.

 

I wouldn't part with any of mine for 2X that asking price, simply because I know INTERNALLY they are perfect, no pinholes and no leaks. Outside they may be dirty and dented, but they were out of running cars and once they were dried out of fuel, were immediately sprayed internally with WD40, and then had a nice dose of LPS Preservative put into them and then were capped to prevent any volatile off-gassing. They should hold indefinately like that, so when I want to do an EFI conversion, I can pick one and start in on it.

 

Later tanks are cheaper as they only fit the later chassis. But 74 through 6/76 tanks are in the most demand---simply because they are the best for EFI conversion. 280 tanks get the nod over the 74 simply becauase of some more rudimentary baffles. But the 74 has all you need in terms of return line capacity in the right spot, you just need a bigger tube and swirl pot added.

 

Actually, the 75/76 tanks could benefit from a better swirlpot as well, and rejiggered return line. For hard use it's what you want to do anyway.

[goodoldjam]

I'm getting the feeling I should pick it up. He said it does have a dent, but i really did expect it to have at least one. The only other question is internally like you said Tony, any kind of rust is going to kill the deal.

 

I should of snagged all the junkyard tanks i could find when i had the chance. Problem is my yards like to poke holes in them instead of opening the drain plug.

[Tony D]

I should of snagged all the junkyard tanks i could find when i had the chance. Problem is my yards like to poke holes in them instead of opening the drain plug.

 

I got a couple of those as well. Easily fixed with a BIG soldering iron (the type you heat with a torch) some acid-core solder, and a pre-1982 US Penny (all copper, no zinc)

 

Heat the soldering iron, flux up the penny, clean the area aroudn the hole, then put the penny on the red-hot soldering iron, slap it to the tank and lay the solder to it. Solders up the hole no problem.

 

It helps if you can pull some of the piercing back out, but it's not necessary. I actually don't let the pick-axe holes deter me any longer. They are getting impossible to find, so when I get one that looks good, I get it and complain at the payment window about the hole to try and knock down the price.

 

Rust? Look in terms of severity. If it wasn't cleaned properly there will be some surface rust. But if you see a 'line' like it was half-empty for a looooong time consider knocking some $$$ off the offer. If the pickup tube is immersed, or exposed then you're usually good. But when it's half submerged and the top half is exposed long term to the condesnation, it can eat a pinhole and it's a bear to troubleshoot. Almost as bad as maple leaves in the tank that intermittently get sucked onto the pickup tube...

[goodoldjam]

Thanks for the info Tony, I'm planning on taking a good flashlight and maybe a mirror and seeing whats going on inside. I'm kinda in between a Fuel cell or a bolt on tank.

I talked to him a bit and seems like a honest guy and is going to hook me up with some quarter panel pieces for a decent price.

I think he's up in air as far as internal condition, as most people probably would be.

 

pick-axe holes, yep that's exactly what they are. I wondered why they couldn't just take the time and take out the plug.

It wouldn't deter me either, because I don't see the amount of early Z's i use to.

Edited August 2, 2010 by goodoldjam

[goodoldjam]

Well picked it up. Had a quite bit a rust in it, good thing was it was off a running car. So the rust was pretty equal over the whole tank. He recommended Muriatic Acid, but I just went ahead and picked up some POR-15 marine clean, Plus the metal prep and tank sealer. I broke out the pressure washer and added the marine clean to it and from what i can see it's almost spotlessly clean metal now. I'm going to finish off with some boiling water and marine clean mix just to make sure the parts i can't see are clean as possible.

It's looking good real fast though.