Challenger Posted August 18, 2010 Author Share Posted August 18, 2010 Got the coil pack and EDIS controller mounted this morning. Cut out a piece of sheet metal the same shape as the coil pack and then welded 4 nuts onto the top of it where you can bolt the coil pack onto it. I then used 4 self tapping screws to secure it onto the firewall. Turned out nice and its really easy to pull off for whatever reason. Mounted the EDIS controller right next to it. I wanted to put it on the side closest to to the fender but Im planing on putting a vent in there so that went out the door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted August 18, 2010 Author Share Posted August 18, 2010 (edited) Also having to decide on which pulley Ill be using for the trigger wheel. I have the stock pullet off of my 78 as well as a 81 turbo pulley. Im only using the pulley closest to the block for the water pump and alternator. Heres a comparison. 81 turbo with original trigger wheel 78 pulley Edited August 18, 2010 by Challenger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted August 19, 2010 Author Share Posted August 19, 2010 (edited) Started looking at the wiring for edis and thought to myself I could do alot better. Also had a little revelation on how to make the shield grounding a little easier and more aesthetic. Anyways, it turned out a billion times better and fits really good. Red wires will be going to a 12 V switched power, black will go to my ground, and you cant see it but a green wire coming out of the 4 pin pin connector (hidden in loom) will be going to 12 V switched as well. Plan for tomorrow... err today. Its 330 am. haha - Put sensor wires and injectors wires back to their final positions - Plan on where PIP and SAW lines will travel to avoid other high power wires - Dissassemble ECU connection - Look at wiring related to the fuel/ignition relay. Edited August 19, 2010 by Challenger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted August 19, 2010 Author Share Posted August 19, 2010 (edited) More pulley pictures... stopped at the pick and pull and grabbed the trigger wheel/pulley off of an escort, same kind of car I got the sensor from. Luckily the engine was already sitting under the car so I pulled it out from under and grabbed the pulley. Expect to pull off the oil pan to get it off if you dont have a pulley puller. I thought Id be able to just tap it off with my hammer like I did on my L engines but there isnt room, once the pan is off though theres plenty of room to give it a tap. Heres the pulley from an 83zxt. 3 row like the 81's but just no toothed wheel since 83 didnt have the CAS. Also the bolts holding it together come in from the front rather than the back. I have a few options. It appears the trigger wheel is pressed on from the back and it looks like the center hole (if I could pull it off) is pretty big. First option is to pull it off without any cutting or modification of the trigger wheel and then somehowe press it onto the front of the 78 pulley, that is assuming the inside hole is small enough to fit over the datsun pulley snuggly. Other option is to cut directly down the seem in front of the trigger wheel to where you only cut off the pulley grooves. Then drill holes in the trigger wheel to mount it on the front of the 83 pulley. Edited August 19, 2010 by Challenger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted August 19, 2010 Author Share Posted August 19, 2010 (edited) Been reading and leaning towards this way. This would use the 78 pulley. Still need to figure out how to remove the trigger wheel from the escort pulley, other than just a hack saw which might have to be done. Pictures courtesy of Braap. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=38513 Edited August 19, 2010 by Challenger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 Just out of curiosity, what is the pattern on the '81 balancer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted August 21, 2010 Author Share Posted August 21, 2010 Pattern of the teeth or? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 Yeah, the tooth count and number missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 Well there are 3 large teeth that stick out further with 29 smaller teeth inbetween each of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 Alright, Im having alot of trouble trying to figure out how to wire the fuel pump trigger to the original datsun fuel pump relays. Im tryin to follow this... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=48292 But his explanation... 37-fuel pump relay trigger. There is a little bit of re-wiring involved here.On the 4-pin connector, find the G/L wire. Make sure your battery is disconnected and make a long jumper wire for your multimeter, hook to this wire. Then go under the hood, passenger side and unbolt the metal box the fuse links are mounted on. Underneath this box you'll see a bunch of relays. Unplug the one farthest left. It's the ignition relay after the first ignition relay. The wire is in the middle of all the blue and blue/white wires. The one you get continuity on with your jumper is the one you cut and label. Now find the fuel pump relay, it's the small one with the 12-gauge L/G wires on it. Cut the black wire (ground) and splice your other wire to it. Cut the W/B wire going to the other side of the field coil of the FPR and splice it into the fuel pump power wire. (You'll have to plug in the battery to test for which one has power all the time.) The reason for this is the white/black wire is a START signal, and don't be tempted to just tie into the white/black that's on the 4-pin ECU connector, as it's powered from the main ignition relay. I didnt want to find out what would happen to MS if 12v got applied to the fuel pump turn on. Probably not good. OK almost done here. Now, unplug your voltage regulator and have an assistant cycle your key on and off till you find the 12volt switched power from the alternator. Splice into this wire and connect it to the wire you cut first for the ignition relay. If you don't do this you'll be scratching your head for hours because your Megasquirt will have no power but everything else will. It was annoying. Is making almost zero sense to me. Let me know if its confusing or if Im just really dense. Also, im trying to figure out where to get 12V switched to EDIS from. Where should I tap into? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkupp2000 Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 What fuel rail are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted August 25, 2010 Author Share Posted August 25, 2010 I made it myself. http://www.rossmachineracing.com/dash8.html Bought I think two feet from here and used the mill at college to drill holes down to the thousands of an inch accuracy. Threaded and screwed in the barbed fittings. Turned out to be about $30 for the aluminum and $20 for the fittings. Better than $100+ for a JSK or pallnet. No braces but I just made one from the stock fuel rails mounts with a little piece of rubber tubing on to top for insulation. Havent updated for while... got alot done. -Wired my EDIS up to the stock ignition box under the glovebox. Looked up the power and ground wires and ran them with a plug to my edis controller and coil pack. -Wired up my fuel pump! Although I took the easy way out. Just ran power to the fuel pump through a relay and a switch which will be in the center console ash tray. It has power all the time since I tapped into the W/B wire on the ignition switch (ooops) but it turned out good. I can just flip the switch if I have the key in but dont want to start it yet, and if I stop after a hard run I can run the fuel for a little bit to circulate cool fuel through the system. -EDIS and Megasquirt (atleast the wire going to megasquirt) has power! Solid 12V! Still waiting on my DB37 connector. Id really like to start connecting all the wires to their correct pins on the DB37 but Ill have to wait till next monday.. the day before school starts. $#&@*%!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted August 25, 2010 Author Share Posted August 25, 2010 Pulled off the old fuel pump. Putting on my walbro 255. Removed the original bracket and drilled two new holes for the walbros straps. Welded on bolts from the back side so I can just slide the pump on and off without having to hold the bolt on from the back. I need to get to bed so Ill mount it up tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted August 29, 2010 Share Posted August 29, 2010 Good progress, do yourself a favour and get Dereks mount for the sensor and trigger wheel hub with your 76 pulley> I had major issues with trying to line it up dead center. Further more his wheels are laser cut. The escort wheel probally has a wobble even if you centered perfect sometimes when removing these wheels they get a bit bent because they are press fitted. Also I would also recommend the full db 37 connector and wiring so much more easier from DIYautotune. I wish I went this route to begin with Mine still works its pretty clean but too many connections and so many different colour of wires. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted August 29, 2010 Author Share Posted August 29, 2010 Well, all of the wiring is basically done so no real point in getting the full harness now. As long as it works, and it looks good as is, Ill be happy. As for the trigger wheel. I went to check on getting it turned down so it could be pressed on and was quoted less than $60. I talked to the machinist for awhile about engineering and he threw it on the lathe to make sure he could get it lined up correctly. He was really nice. Anyways I went home and was going to cut off the front pulley in order for it to take less time for him on the lathe, save a little money. Well, somehow I had remembered the pictures above with the trigger wheel right up flush against the inside pulley, so I was going to have him machine of the front lip (part I cut off) and then machine down the next lip on the outer pulley so I could slip on the trigger wheel. Well, obviously that isnt the way to do it. Its mounted all the way forward the front lip. With it flush up against the front of the inside pulley the sensor cant be mounted where its directly on top of the teeth how its supposed to be... So basically I ruined my 78 pulley.... I have my 81 pulley that I can machine the front lip down like I was supposed to but its going to be alot further forward which will make the VR sensor mount prone to flexing and moving/rubbing on the trigger wheel. Oh well, learned something. I hopefully be able to find one at a JY or on an engine in town I might pick up for the head. (JDM e88) Softopz, I might consider Derek's. Nice stuff but I think it will be fun to make it. I might even design it on solid works and see if I can make it at school... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted August 29, 2010 Author Share Posted August 29, 2010 Well, all of the wiring is basically done so no real point in getting the full harness now. As long as it works, and it looks good as is, Ill be happy. As for the trigger wheel. I went to check on getting it turned down so it could be pressed on and was quoted less than $60. I talked to the machinist for awhile about engineering and he threw it on the lathe to make sure he could get it lined up correctly. He was really nice. Anyways I went home and was going to cut off the front pulley in order for it to take less time for him on the lathe, save a little money. Well, somehow I had remembered the pictures above with the trigger wheel right up flush against the inside pulley, so I was going to have him machine of the front lip (part I cut off) and then machine down the next lip on the outer pulley so I could slip on the trigger wheel. Well, obviously that isnt the way to do it. Its mounted all the way forward the front lip. With it flush up against the front of the inside pulley the sensor cant be mounted where its directly on top of the teeth how its supposed to be... So basically I ruined my 78 pulley.... I have my 81 pulley that I can machine the front lip down like I was supposed to but its going to be alot further forward which will make the VR sensor mount prone to flexing and moving/rubbing on the trigger wheel. Oh well, learned something. I hopefully be able to find one at a JY or on an engine in town I might pick up for the head. (JDM e88) Softopz, I might consider Derek's. Nice stuff but I think it will be fun to make it. I might even design it on solid works and see if I can make it at school... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 Yah I for sure I agree its fun to do your own stuff but economics 101 opportunity cost. That time you could have bought his kit mounted and not mess up your first pulley , prior that go junkyard remove escort pulley and all associated time with that trigger wheel would have been the same price if not cheaper. Time is money too. Best of luck I am not trying to put you down or anything just take it from someone who was stubborn and tried himself all the options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted August 30, 2010 Author Share Posted August 30, 2010 Well I decided Ill probably just get Derek's setup. From what Ive seen the fact that the outer pulley is cut off wont affect it... or will it? His instructions said the only place his trigger wheel and hub touch are at the face where the bolt goes in, it doesnt touch cocentrically. Can anyone confirm this? If so Ill just go have the edge where I cut it trued up to look nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted August 31, 2010 Author Share Posted August 31, 2010 Gonna pick up the pulley tomorrow. Basically I had the front pulley turned off. Itll look nice. Got the holset apart to reclock the housings. Removing the exhaust housing was pretty hard but it came off. I need to do the following this week for the turbo. -Buy T3 spacer -Grind down original wastegate bracket (hits exhaust manifold BAD) -Fab a mount for my wastegate (wastegate is from my 81 turbo) and cut down the arm to work on the holset -Install longer studs on manifold -Modify oil drain tube to fit onto oil pan, its closer than I thought! -Possibly modify banjo fitting? On the banjo fitting I went to house of hose and bought a banjo bolt for the holset. The original banjo is 12mmx1.25 and the holsets is 12mmx1.5 They had one that worked for the holset so I bought it. Problem maybe is the holes on it are much smaller than the stock bolt. Both the hole going through the center and the one through the sides are both smaller. Ive been reading about some people running a restrictor for the holsets. Is this just to bump up the oil pressure and help reduce flow through the drain tube so it doesnt get backed up? I read somewhere about the importance of keeping the drain tube a smooth and easy route to the oil pain. Any opinions? I might take this one back and go check out a diesel shop in town. I didnt know about them but Im pretty sure theyd have the right bolt. Other things to do this week are get the db37 all soldered up. I think I need to go get a smaller solder gun since the solder cups on the connection are quite small... I need to go get another inline fuse for my wideband controller. Ive seen it wants a 2 amp fuse for MS power and than 5 amp for the wideband controller. Do you think it would be bad to just use a single 2 amp fuse (power for MS and wideband are from same wire) for both, or will the wideband continually blow it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 7, 2010 Author Share Posted September 7, 2010 (edited) Little update. I was able to go to a diesel shop and get a proper banjo fitting, it was also $4 cheaper. I tried to get out the studs on the manifold but 3 out of 4 snapped. I guess I should have let them soak longer. But I did get an idea where I can just leave them as is broken in the manifold. Seeing that Id have to use two gaskets on the flange with a spacer and longer studs I decided to just weld the flange on. I can tap the spacer for new studs which will be the same as the original as far as length, I can use whatever thread I want, 1.25 or 1.5. I will have maintained the single gasket configuration like original and I wont have to remove the old studs which are proving to be a huge pain, Id probably need to drill them out completely if I needed to get them out. Also got my pulley back. Turned out it was only $10! It looks pretty good, looks like a single row pulley.. haha I called a guy in town about getting the spacer cut but he hasnt called me back.. Id really like to get the turbo mounted within the next week or so. Edited September 7, 2010 by Challenger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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