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Fender removal...how do I go about doing this?


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I am curruntly stripping my car for repainting, and I took all the bolts and scerws out of the top section of the fender...Where else do I need to look for the rest of the bolts?? I haven't really looked to hard, just a little knowledge about this would be helpful before I get started!! Is this illustrated in the repair manuals for the car? thanks...anything I should be warned of will be helpful and appreciated...

 

thanks

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Guest 400 ci 280z

did you get the ones under the cowl? there are also some on the bottom edge. cant remember how many (been a while since i took mine off). i hope this helps.

 

chris

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DCP_5270.jpg

 

I am a bit late on this thread, but since I part Z cars out on a daily basis I thought I'd add my 2 cents.

 

As others have said, you start with all the visible 10mm bolts and philips head screws along the top of the fender, along backside of fender cone on down to 2 that attach lower, outer valance to center valance. If the bumper has been removed first, removing the entire fender with cone and lower valance attached as one unit is a lot easier for further dissassembly than trying to remove each piece while still on the car before fender removal.

 

Next, open door and remove windshileld cowl panel to access the 3 hidden bolts there. The 2 philips head bolts under the cowl can be particularly difficult to remove without undesirable consequences occurring. At my ZPARTS.COM website I have just published a new section on PARTS REMOVAL TIPS & PHOTOS that has some brief comments about removing these two problematic bolts that might be useful to you or your Z friends in the future.

 

After you remove all upper bolts there are 2 more bolts at the bottom of fender just forward of the lower door area which often rust bond into the lower body of the car. I find that quite often one or both of these rusty bolts will break off if they do not start to turn freely at first try. If great resistence is encountered, I'd suggest cleaning off visible rust and debris and applying some liberal doses of Liquid Wrench every hour for awhile before proceeding. When I do resume, I usually start by applying tightening pressure (clockwise) first until I feel a slight "give" to the bolt before I start applying counter clockwise torque. Once bolts move a bit i reapply WD-40 or Liquid Wrench to rusty area before continuing.

 

Once all bolts and head light/marker light wires are removed or disconnected, gently prise/lift lower fender area outwards & upwards until it comes away from body slightly. Next, gently lift up on on rear and wheel well areas until fender lifts up a few inches. At that point fender can be slid forward and upwards in a motion that should cause it to come away from the body.

 

Hope some of that helps someone.

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