QWKDTSN Posted August 31, 2001 Share Posted August 31, 2001 I think I've finally got a line on a good motor. It ran when it was pulled from the truck it was last in (owned by an elderly but, as I'm told, pretty savvy gentleman). The guy Ben who owns the shop I bought my tranny and am awaiting shipment on flywheel, clutch, and bellhousing from bought it from the guy and is willing to resell it to me for what he paid. $300. Here's what I was told. It's a 4-bolt main block with "high nickel content", supposedly in high demand, according to him. Fuelie double-hump heads. I'm getting the idea that this is a screaming deal.. What should I pay to have it rebuilt? My best friend works at Schneider Racing Cams and can hook me up with any cam I need, as well as the actual machine work since he sells tons of cams to tons of machine shops. So he can get some sway over the price. What do you think I should have done? I guess I'm just looking for a solid, reliable 280-to-300-horse street motor. Torque's not too much of a concern but I don't want loads and loads since I'm only running a T-5. I guess I want it to pull through the midrange and still be able to keep up in the high end (6500 rpm sound too high for anyone?) I continue to be new at this whole V8 game despite being in it for about four months.. eegh. Thanks a lot guys... I appreciate all your help. My swap's finally started, now that I'm actually purchasing things! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted August 31, 2001 Share Posted August 31, 2001 $300 is an excellent deal IMO. To identify the high nickel block their will be two numbers cast into the block behind the timing cover. 010 020 or 010 030, the regular blocks are just 010. Are the double humps with or without bolt holes? With are more desireable as you can use later accessory drives. Are they factory installed 2.02 valves (If so there is a unshrouding cut around the near wall of the intake valve in the combusion chamber) Typical 4 bolt block will bring $50-$100 bare unmachined, about $350 for a short block. Double humps can be had for $100 (needing rebuild)a pair for no bolt holes, but with holes brings $200-$300 needing rebuild. Good machine work on the block should set you back about $400-$600 (vatting, boring, honing with torque plates, squaring the deck to crank, align hone if not using original crank) . I highly recommend the high perf rebuild kit from Northern Auto Parts $419 with forged pistons: Chevy 350 (to 1985) Street Performance I would buy a set of aftermarket heads. Combustion chambers are much better design and usually flow better for about twice the cost. Figure $500 to completely recondition an older set of heads. (Valves, springs, retainers, guides, vatting, surfacing, screw in studs if you plan use above 5500 rpm.) Sorry for rambling on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 31, 2001 Share Posted August 31, 2001 I agree 100% with Mike - if it's in decent shape and even if it does have the w/o holes heads, it's a bargain. BTW, I made simple brackets to mount my alt and AC compressor to use the double hump heads w/o holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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