Daphur280 Posted November 13, 2010 Share Posted November 13, 2010 So when I picked up my 73 240z, I noticed @ 45+ mph I had the steering wobble of death, immediately I had my tires balanced and began troubleshooting my way to the source of the problem. I replaced the Steering coupler, Sway bar end links and eventually the rack mount bushings (all with Energy Suspension) when I found that the rack had movement within the bushing. After replacing these parts and a test drive I found that I still had the death wobble. My next venture was to replace the wheel bearings. Of course after doing so the wobble was still there. So going back to the rack, I noticed I still had lots of movement within the bushing still... So I ordered up another set of Energy Suspension Bushings and just less than an hour ago installed them... There is still movement within the bushing. I noticed during installation that the caps set in place over the bushings with ease, and set against the mounting surface on the lower mount without having to compress the bushing (as if they may be larger than the original caps). So now I'm at the conclusion that I may have the wrong caps (if there is a difference amongst 240z, 260z, and/or 280z rack mount caps) or that they may be extremely worn... I am curious to see if anyone can confirm that the 240z caps are different in either I.D. O.D. and/or height, if so I will need to hit up the WTB threads.. Also, if anyone can explain the purpose to the U-Bolt that attatches by the driver's side bushing or if this may be relevant to why this is happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandyZ Posted November 13, 2010 Share Posted November 13, 2010 Not sure that the u bolt is part of a stock set up. Is it contacting the cross member when you try to tighten down the stock clamp over the bushing? I have a 71 240 and the u bolt doesn't look familiar. I could be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted November 13, 2010 Author Share Posted November 13, 2010 No it doesn't make contact with crossmember, however when i first installed the bushings i think it was in a different position before installing the first set of bushings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandyZ Posted November 13, 2010 Share Posted November 13, 2010 And you're sure you didn't switch the caps around when reinstalling? Since the bushings are diff shapes. Just trying to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted November 14, 2010 Author Share Posted November 14, 2010 I checked them both while installing, they are identical, which also has me wondering now if I have 2 passenger caps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 I didn't have a wobble problem but I did have some space in between the rack and x-member. Even with new energy poly bushings there was enough play for the rack to slide back and forth. I fixed that by welding 1/16 inch steel strips on the brackets and the x-member. Nice and tight now without play. If you don't have access to a welder I'm sure it would still work if you cut some strips and then bent them into place around the bushings kind of like a shim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19762802+2 Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 (edited) The 240z and 280z bushings are different so I'm guessing the caps are different also, A lot of things could be different on your car that could have been changed like the caps, the rack, the crossmember(possibly). I'm not sure if some of these parts are even swappable. Just do some research and that should help you eliminate what parts you have and that are different. Sorry to have to add more to your problem. Edited November 14, 2010 by 19752802+2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandyZ Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 Very true. One of the problems with these cars is not knowing what previous owners did to them. I have discovered a mixture of parts from different years and models on my own. This complicates things and makes simple repairs more complicated than they need to be. Keep trying. Try calling z man of washington. I'm sure he can help you figure things out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted November 15, 2010 Author Share Posted November 15, 2010 I wouldn't mind adding the steel strips, but would rather find out why its like that rather than remedy the problem, if you know what I mean. In either case I think I'm gonna go back to the black poly bushings I had in there previously, on my way to work this morning the wobble was much more severe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 I tried several different bushings too but eventually did what EMWHYROHEN did and welded in 1/16" plates on both sides of the right bushing mount but only on the right side of the left bushing mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 Replace your bushing in your transverse link too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 Have you checked Tie rod ends? Ball joints? Control arm bushings? If you're going to rebuild the suspension do it the right way by replacing the wear parts I just mentioned and then getting a good alingment. The U-clap is stock to the 240Z's I'm not 100% sure of the purpose but I always adjusted the rubber stopper against the X member. Be sure to check all your brake hardware too and make sure you don't have a sticky caliper/pads and warped rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 I had all original 240Z parts on my car. The problem was the tolerances of the bushings, rack , or caps were off. Anyway, I still don;t think this is your problem. dsommer is right you should inspect/ replace all you suspension parts. Youve done everything else but that and those are probably the most critical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 I my case everything had been changed including the rack bushings. You could see the rack move side to side when you turned the steering wheel. It was obvious something was not in tolerance. The spacers fixed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted November 18, 2010 Author Share Posted November 18, 2010 (edited) Have you checked Tie rod ends? Ball joints? Control arm bushings? If you're going to rebuild the suspension do it the right way by replacing the wear parts I just mentioned and then getting a good alingment. The U-clap is stock to the 240Z's I'm not 100% sure of the purpose but I always adjusted the rubber stopper against the X member. Be sure to check all your brake hardware too and make sure you don't have a sticky caliper/pads and warped rotors. Yes all replaced, still wobble, I had forgetten to mention that I replaced the tie rod ends and ball joints when I added the bushings due to I was focused on the bushing parts, then following that replacement I replaced the CA bushings. Replaced brakes with Toyota Calipers and machined the Rotors, all new hardware too. I replaced the bearings when I did this too. I can actually see the movement when I pry the rack up (when fastened) from the crossmember and can visually see that it has play within the bushing. So I'm confident the issue is within the bushing or caps and nothing else Edited November 18, 2010 by Daphur280 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 I also welded a strip on the caps. Problem solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted November 20, 2010 Author Share Posted November 20, 2010 I also welded a strip on the caps. Problem solved. iS it better to weld here vs the caps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 It doesn't really matter just make sure the shim is thick enough to get the rack tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted November 23, 2010 Author Share Posted November 23, 2010 Will I want to put shims on the mating surface of the bushing as well as the rack mounts as pictured in post #10 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted December 4, 2010 Author Share Posted December 4, 2010 Added 1/8th steel shim on cap, still wobbly if not worse... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.