Administrators BRAAP Posted December 3, 2010 Administrators Share Posted December 3, 2010 modified booster... EEEEK... Is there still a diaphragm in the booster and does it still seal, i e. hold vacuum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richracing Posted December 3, 2010 Author Share Posted December 3, 2010 lol, yea the diaphram is still there, just trimmed it back a bit lol. it should still hold vacuum as long as its sealed. right? anyways, if it doesnt work, ill just try something different. like i said, im not at all scared to cut my car haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted December 3, 2010 Administrators Share Posted December 3, 2010 The booster body itself may be air tight, it is the diaphragm sealing to the perimeter of the the booster body, separating the front and back side of the booster 100% that is in question. To modify a booster such as that makes resealing the diaphragm to the booster body 100% as the pedal travels through is full range of motion a feat not easily done even in super shops. The delicacy of maintaing the diaphragm seal to the perimeter of the booster body through full pedal travel is not easy. I'm not saying it can't be done but I am skeptical if the booster is still operational as a "booster". If you have a vacuum source available such as vacuum pump of sorts, Mity-Vac or even a shop vacuum, (shop vacuum doesn't draw much vacuum, but might draw enough for the test), with the booster vacuum line and the check valve connected, apply a vacuum to the booster, then remove the vacuum source. Then after 30-60 seconds wait, push the brake pedal by hand. If the diapragm is sealed, the pedal effort will be lighter than it was before you applied vacuum. The brake booster should be able to retain enough vacuum on it's own after the vacuum source has been removed that you should be able to get 2-3 half travel actuations before the pedal effort gets hard again as the vacuum is being consumed for the "boosting" operation. When booster clearance is an issue, a couple of viable options are smaller booster if one exists that fits, adapting the hydra boost available from several Marques such as Ford, Jaguar, BMW, (see pics) or using push rod arrangement, relocate the booster and Master Cylinder. BMW used that method in some of its earlier 7 series, (I think 5 series as well, but don't recall for sure), booster and Master cylinder are forward of the strut tower with push rod arrangement from the pedal through the firewall. The Hydroboost, (or Hydraboost) uses the power steering pump/fluid for applying "boost" to the brakes. Nice option for really wide engines that encroach on traditional brake boosters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richracing Posted December 3, 2010 Author Share Posted December 3, 2010 Wow, thanks a lot braap for schooling me on brake boosters. Sad to admit, but I honestly didn't understand completely how they functioned. I will definately weigh my options before putting it on the road. If I use the booster I have now, worst case is that it will feel like manual brakes, right? I'm going to look into the hydrobooster idea, but for right now my main concern is getting the motor mounted this weekend. Thanks again for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted December 3, 2010 Administrators Share Posted December 3, 2010 Wow, thanks a lot braap for schooling me on brake boosters. Sad to admit, but I honestly didn't understand completely how they functioned. I will definately weigh my options before putting it on the road. If I use the booster I have now, worst case is that it will feel like manual brakes, right? I'm going to look into the hydrobooster idea, but for right now my main concern is getting the motor mounted this weekend. Thanks again for the info Correct, worse case, it would be like manual brakes, pedal effort would be high but brakes would still be 100% functional. When my brake booster in my V-8 Z went out, I ran without it for quite some time, just removed the check valve and plugged the port on the intake manifold. Took a while to get used to but after a couple weeks as a daily driver like that, actually liked it during spirited driving conditions and auto-crossing. Can't really explain why other than it seemed to give that little extra feel/control while threshold braking. However for a comfortable daily driver, the assist from the booster is nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Nice test fit pics Rich, did you have your exhaust manifolds on when you fit it, and where were you putting your lift straps to? This engine SUCKS for good lift points (going over those crazy composite valve covers...grr..) Does anyone with S30/ S130 experience know how the engine bays differ, if at all? Steering was one subject that really had me worried, but it looks like it's no problem in the ZX. (I think I'm about 2 weeks off from pulling my engine.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richracing Posted December 6, 2010 Author Share Posted December 6, 2010 Nice test fit pics Rich, did you have your exhaust manifolds on when you fit it, and where were you putting your lift straps to? This engine SUCKS for good lift points (going over those crazy composite valve covers...grr..) Does anyone with S30/ S130 experience know how the engine bays differ, if at all? Steering was one subject that really had me worried, but it looks like it's no problem in the ZX. (I think I'm about 2 weeks off from pulling my engine.) thanks, the exhaust manifolds were off, im pretty sure they wont clear anyway. im gonna have some custom ones made, i just need to save up for a tig welder. the steering shaft is just barely out of the way in the zx. however, it is in the way of the factory vic motor mounts so im going to have to make some custom ones. the engine strap was kinda trick, but i just basically looped it around the engine two time, one loop on the back of the engine and one towards the front to keep it balanced. i wish i could have bolted a chain to the top somewhere but i couldnt find a good spot for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slyhog22056 Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 Just had to chime in here ... another option you may have is to go to a salvage yard and find an old BMW master cylinder, proportioning valve and power steering pump, and its resevior. the BMW is a hydraulic boost system and Works great. You You also have seperate reseviors for front and rear brakes and is designed for 4 wheel discs. That was the way i was going to go if i had problems with my 5.0 install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richracing Posted December 9, 2010 Author Share Posted December 9, 2010 thanks for the suggestion, any specific year or model bmw? there are a few bmw's at the local junk yard. there's a 5 series and a couple 3 series, all in the 1990's era. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 Brakes later man, this bigger engine is going in to make the car 'go' more, not 'stop' more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richracing Posted December 9, 2010 Author Share Posted December 9, 2010 Haha, I know. Will be mounting it up this weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richracing Posted December 9, 2010 Author Share Posted December 9, 2010 Who needs brakes anyway lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slyhog22056 Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 thanks for the suggestion, any specific year or model bmw? there are a few bmw's at the local junk yard. there's a 5 series and a couple 3 series, all in the 1990's era. Just have to look and see whats out there. the setup i had came from my 84 633 csi. maybe the 3 and 5 series are smaller sized units, not sure. they are a pretty simple operating system. Just be sure to document make year and model of what you got it from so if you have to buy replacement parts you will know what yoyu are looking for. the good thing about the bmw systems is that there are built in switches for low fliud, low pressure and some have temperature monitoring for brake fluid temps. but you might not want to hook all that up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted December 10, 2010 Administrators Share Posted December 10, 2010 From post #23 above... ... adapting the hydra boost available from several Marques such as Ford, Jaguar, BMW, (see pics) or using push rod arrangement, relocate the booster and Master Cylinder. BMW used both methods in some of its earlier 7 series, (I think 5 series as well, but don't recall for sure), booster and Master cylinder are forward of the strut tower with push rod arrangement from the pedal through the firewall. The Hydroboost, (or Hydraboost) uses the power steering pump/fluid for applying "boost" to the brakes. Nice option for really wide engines that encroach on traditional brake boosters. ... When at the yard, just pop hoods on all the Jags and all the 5, 6, and 7 series Bimmers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richracing Posted December 11, 2010 Author Share Posted December 11, 2010 Ive been working on the transmission crossmember for a couple days and finally finished it today. I used a flux core welder , but hopefully will be able to afford a TIG welder after income taxes... I know the welds dont look the best, but its flux core so pretty much impossible to make them look awesome. The welds do have good penetration so im not worried about them failing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richracing Posted December 13, 2010 Author Share Posted December 13, 2010 worked on the driver side motor mount today. Luckily I had an h22 swap civic motor mount laying around that I cut up and should work good for what I need... here is the starting point to the engine side of the motor mount. now i just have to figure out how im going to bolt it to the engine... and here it is resting on the frame rail... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richracing Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 got my mckinney motorsport throttle cable, woot woot! it is designed for the s30 chassis, KA SR RB swap, but fits like a glove on my v8 s130 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richracing Posted December 26, 2010 Author Share Posted December 26, 2010 I've been working on the engine mounts for the past couple weeks and finally got the 4.6 held in place. I didn't take many pics of the mounts before I bolted them in place so I'll take some more detailed pics after I pull the motor back out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richracing Posted January 3, 2011 Author Share Posted January 3, 2011 man is this corner of the forum dead... anyways, i just got home from vacation so ill be pulling the motor set out soon and start working on the engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Wow, quite a bit higher than I expected, (with the eminent hood scoop and all...) If the engine was forward a few inches, could you drop it down lower? I wasn't sure if you were trading off engine height clearance with CG issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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