New Injector Connectors for 280Z

[Davey G]

Well I finally got around to replacing the connectors for the injectors. It still had the original connectors on it when I purchased the car in February. I don't think any manufacturer got the connectors right until the late 80s. I went with AC/Delco connectors and they worked out great. I took a short overnight road trip, only a 2 hour drive one way, and by the time I had gotten back I had averaged 23 mpg. Previously I had only gotten as much as 21 mpg.

 

While my mechanic was doing the connectors he also found a radiator leak. I had told him of a small 2" puddle of water/coolant I found on my garage floor, but he found the crack where it was coming from. Though planned for the future, I got to put the aluminum radiator in now instead of later, even though it hurt the pocketbook a bit more than planned.

 

Next on the horizon are:

• a/c & heater work
  
• new blower motor
  
• weld 4X12 rust area in floor pan
  
• replace floorpan support rails
  

 

And if I can just figure out how to get that interior overhead trim (that houses the dome light) to quit squeeking...!

[NewZed]

So you're implying that you had misfiring injectors before and the new connectors fixed that and gave almost 10% extra fuel mileage. That is worth following up on. Was the car misfiring or stumbling before? Does it run smoother now? Type and year of car and engine would be useful too (can't find it in your profile).

 

I'm interested. More details would be nice. I still have the original, cracking, loose connectors on mine, although they have been cleaned up (low budget).

 

Edit - Just noticed 280Z in your title. My mistake.

Edited November 30, 2010 by NewZed

[Davey G]

So you're implying that you had misfiring injectors before and the new connectors fixed that and gave almost 10% extra fuel mileage. That is worth following up on. Was the car misfiring or stumbling before? Does it run smoother now? I'm interested. More details would be nice. I still have the original, cracking, loose connectors on mine, although they have been cleaned up (low budget).

 

The car was running decent before. It had a valve job 9 months before I bought it, but all is still stock (so far). I also replaced the AFM-to-Throttle body boot which had dry-rotted and was leaking air, and had the AFM adjusted. I then replaced the exhaust donut between the exhaust manifold and downpipe. But it was still running rich.

 

I did a lot of reading - first "Brapp's L6 EFI-induction advice and tips" from the Nissan L6 Forum, then further on the links he provided on there. One is a 70+ page document on Z EFI and troubleshooting the same. Both are fantastic. Part of that reading helped me to understand how an injector works, and I realized that if it did not get the same current to every injector because of crappy connectors the injectors would not consistently open up the same or for the same duration, thus different amounts of fuel getting mixed with the air before getting compressed into the combustion chamber. Yes, the car runs better, smoother. It also runs cleaner. I still wish to replace all vacuum lines as well.

 

It's very dependable, and my daily driver, 50 miles per day, 5 days a week. I love the L6 engine! One day I'll rebuild that thing, but from the way it's running it may be a while.

Edited November 30, 2010 by Davey G

[Davey G]

The other thing I did was change to a new 180 degree thermostat to keep the car running warmer, as in doing so will send a message to the computer to let the car run leaner.