1993_570ZX Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 Hey guys, new guy here, been trolling for a bit trying to soak up some info for all my project works and whatnot. Ive got myself a 1993 2+2 300ZX, and a complete automatic drivetrain from a 1993 Firebird Formula. So far ive fixed and simplified the LT1 as much as possible, and have already stuffed the thing into the engine bay. I wanted to get some info on motor mounts used in fabbing? Im looking at like CJ7 mounts, or generic sbc mounts with a plate some kinda Z32 looking mount like the F150 mount with a plate.... looking to see what some other guys used here. Also I was trying to get the engine far back enough into the tunnel. I feel that I almost need to change the oil pan. Was looking at Canton pans and whatnot being they are more straight cut then the sloping stock LT1 pan. I haven't seen anyone talking about changing oil pans on the LT1 swaps, so im assuming that it will work, but what am I missing? I think I can get the engine back maybe another inch before i'm wedged between the firewall and the front crossmember. Seems that the engine is still sitting too high, but it is resting partially on the oil pan to steering rack. Also, looks like the yolk on the stock driveshaft is just about perfect location for the tranny if i come back about an inch. (700R4) anyone just put the GM yolk onto the Nissan driveshaft and work ok? or would it be better to eliminate the entire Nissan driveshaft and just add the back bolting gimmic for the pumpkin. (I have the stock Firebird driveshaft to modify) past these few details... like shifter cable... I should have no problems adapting all the other systems once the engine is mounted in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 Also, looks like the yolk on the stock driveshaft is just about perfect location for the tranny if i come back about an inch. (700R4) anyone just put the GM yolk onto the Nissan driveshaft and work ok? or would it be better to eliminate the entire Nissan driveshaft and just add the back bolting gimmic for the pumpkin. (I have the stock Firebird driveshaft to modify) I used a stock GM Z28 drivehaft on my 280Z/LT1/4L60E swap. I had the shop put a new yoke on just because the stock one had a lot of miles and had them add the JTR U-joint adapter after they shorten the shaft. I have no clue if the stock Z32 shaft will take the torque of the V* but why take that chance when you already have the GM shaft and they both need modified anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dts300z Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Click on the project link in my sig. Should help out a bit. Also look at the first thread in the Model specific section under Z32. Here is the link. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/80113-z32-v8-genral-swap-information/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_570ZX Posted January 4, 2011 Author Share Posted January 4, 2011 I read all that, by cutting out your tunnel did you not have to change your oil pan?(got it farther back?) Im trying to avoid the cut chop rebuild of the tunnel. Its in there nicely right now (crossmember is hanging) but im sure ill have to get an aftermarket oil pan to get it to bolt back up without modification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_570ZX Posted January 4, 2011 Author Share Posted January 4, 2011 I was going over your pictures again, and ive got my engine farther back then yours, but also a little lower. you have any good oil pan shots with the crossmember bolted up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dts300z Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 (edited) If you engine is sitting lower and further back then mine then your going to have to modify the oil pan for sure. I'm using the stock oil pan on mine. The auto tranny will allow you to hug the factory tunnel a little better than the T56 plus if you engine is sitting lower than mine then that's also going to give you the room you need. Back in 2003 I used a LT1 4L60E combo in my initial setup and with a little massaging of the firewall and the oil pan I was able to fit it in there. The reason I modified the firewall was to keep the swap looking clean and actually putting the engine where I wanted it which was as high and far back as possible to maintain ground clearance and have the shifter of the T56 come out in the factory location. To answer your question... no I don't have any real good shots other than whats in my build thread. Here is a pic of the 2 week swap I did in 2003... Kinda Sloppy! Edited January 4, 2011 by dts300z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_570ZX Posted January 5, 2011 Author Share Posted January 5, 2011 well today was a slow day for me, i worked on fixing wiring from my firebird harness and doing a little research on sensor plugs etc. Ive got the drivers side of the engine wiring harness looking good with a clean loomed install of a MSD 6A. Ill do a few wire splices for power and some instruments and get the fuel pump control into the GM computer and away from the Nissan's 6 computers. speaking of which, do you have any info on being able to make the Nissan Tach work off the GM signal or MSD signal? also on speedo signal? if i can get a working signal, i can change the gear to "calibrate" and my buddy has a nissan calibrator for the speedo to smooth out the rest.... IF i get a usable signal for it. Ill get back under the car and see about the bolting back up of the crossmember. By looking at yer pic, did you just use an aftermarket or custom bracket and just run alternator? Im trying to get all the F-body accessories hooked up, (which means my alternator is like 2 inches higher then intake) which is prolly why im running into this issue about motor position... Ill play with it some tomorrow when i get tired of staring at wiring diagrams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dts300z Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 (edited) If you have the FSM for the Z you should be able to look in the trouble shooting section for the tach and the speedo and it will give you pinouts for diagnosing them and those would be the same pins you need to tie into. The connector you want to splice into is the one the comes off the engine harness, there are 2 (one goes to the ecu and one returns to the body harness) the tach, fuel pump, temp sensor, ecu power are all in this connector. The sub harness in the engine bay that goes to oil pressure sensor, alt., speedo, starter, and reverse lights are all in the few connections behind the passenger headlight. I'm sure you have figured most of this out but just in case you have not there you go... this is all by memory so I could be a bit off but I think that's about right. The auto might be a touch different so you will need to look into that. For the tach calibration I would use a dakota digital unit that converts the signal before it hits the tach so you don't have to even worry with it. I just adjusted the trim pot on the tach like others have done on this site and that seem to get it close enough for me. For the speedo I used a ratio adapter that allowed me to adjust the signal through dip switches. This gets a little tricky so you might want to call the manufacture to get it spot on... when you get to that point I can give you a little more direction. If you do a google search for ratio adapter it should come up. I think its called an abbott ratio adapter. For your accessory issues look into other LT1 setups if memory serves me right there are quite a few ways around the factory setup. I know different models like the trucks etc... might have better positioning of the accessories. On my setup I designed a bracket to utilize the factory nissan alternator. I don't have any other creature comforts. Lots of luck to you! Dan Edited January 6, 2011 by dts300z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_570ZX Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 Thanks Dan for the info on the Tach and Speedo, these were the big electrical issues i had left in adapting the LT1 into the Z32. From what ive figured out, the LT1 PCM has the output for the speedo gage for the camaro/firebird. I had glanced over someone else talking about being able to change what that output is from the PCM so its a useable signal to the Nissan. Im just wondering, need to call a computer guy if this is even possible. Ill definatly look into the Dakota digital thing. Ive got access to a Nissan FSM, so ill be getting values and other info I need from that in a day or two. Right now im stuck at the mounting of the engine. I think ive gotta take it back out, beat some of the tunnel for sides of the tranny, and either replace oil pan, or modify stock pan. Canton makes one that should work 15-244T (road race 1 piece rear main seal with oil level plug) but its also $300. Not sure how you got yers in the first time without the big tunnel. Im using the 93 Tranny which is a 700R4. (not that big as far as tranny size) Ive got most of the adapting wiring figured out, need to get back under the passenger firewall inside and start labeling and putting em together. coolant temp, oil pressure, check engine light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dts300z Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 On the first swap I massaged the oil pan a bit to clear the rack without hurting anything. It was a very tight fit for sure and I beat the crap out of the firewall to get it in. Its going to be tight and your going to have a lot of trial fitments. Ha yeah I forgot about the check engine light. I had that wired up too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_570ZX Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 Well, the other day I chopped up the oil pan, giving myself some more clearance. Its getting welded up by a friend's shop. next will be mounts. Im gonna buy some jeep mounts (autozone part #2330) install those, then make plates to bolt those to and bolt the plate to the engine. Ill replace the cheapy autozone mounts with Prothane Motion Control mounts (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTP-1-501/Application/?prefilter=0). This should hopefully center the engine perfectly making 2 of the same plate. or at least damn close to perfect center. For the wiring I went out to the junkyard and picked up connector ends from some F-bodys to make some harnesses outta and label all the pins knowing where they go. Making for a clean plug in harness to adapt into the Nissan. Got all the wires figured out and even scored some mini ATC fuse boxes by cutting them outta some buick regal to use them for the powers on the harness (coil, injectors, ecm). Hopefully comes together this weekend. Last thing im hoping works in my favor is, from my doner car the 93 Formula, it had Edlebrock shorty headers, in good shape, and by looking at the fitment, i might only have to change the exit on the drivers side and they should work perfect. Then can get exhaust made up to goto some Z catback. Ill throw some pics on here later tonight of my Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dts300z Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Sounds good! lets see some pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_570ZX Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 Sounds good! lets see some pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 Love those valve covers, can't tell from the picture but did you do the "Hammer " clearance to get the alternator to clear the valve cover? I had to ball pean/massage mine to clear the alternator. going to build a 383 LT1 from my spare motor and want a pair of tall valve covers for 1:6 roller rockers instead of gutting the standard valve covers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_570ZX Posted January 24, 2011 Author Share Posted January 24, 2011 Love those valve covers, can't tell from the picture but did you do the "Hammer " clearance to get the alternator to clear the valve cover? I had to ball pean/massage mine to clear the alternator. going to build a 383 LT1 from my spare motor and want a pair of tall valve covers for 1:6 roller rockers instead of gutting the standard valve covers. These are cast aluminum valve covers from some guy on ebay. one of those cheap no name setups that sometimes has decent parts. I love the valve covers, very nice, clean, already notched for the alternator and also clear 1.6 rockers. comes with baffles you need to install, and hardware that fits the countersink to make a very clean installed look. Here is the same auction i bought. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-Chevy-LT1-Polished-Aluminum-Valve-Covers-5-7L-Camaro-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c58be8d59QQitemZ190467444057QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories my only problem was packaging, the underside had rubbed though the inner box and had almost damaged one of the valve covers. no harm on mine tho. also had to grind like a small protruding bolt on the backside of the alternator off to make it not rub. this was like 1/8 inch. it fit without the grind off, but i didnt want vibration to rub out and damage either part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dts300z Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Looking good man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_570ZX Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 I ordered up some motor mounts from summit. Trans-dapt 4500. looks nice, its a mount that bolts to the block and has a bar that gets welded to frame. so looks like it will work out nice for some mounts. Also chopped up the oil pan to make some clearance for the steering rack. Just waiting on the mounts now. Gonna go clean up my interior some and finish the alternator wiring and starter wires while im waiting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Thanks for the info, I will order a pair Greg These are cast aluminum valve covers from some guy on ebay. one of those cheap no name setups that sometimes has decent parts. I love the valve covers, very nice, clean, already notched for the alternator and also clear 1.6 rockers. comes with baffles you need to install, and hardware that fits the countersink to make a very clean installed look. Here is the same auction i bought. http://cgi.ebay.com/...sQ5fAccessories my only problem was packaging, the underside had rubbed though the inner box and had almost damaged one of the valve covers. no harm on mine tho. also had to grind like a small protruding bolt on the backside of the alternator off to make it not rub. this was like 1/8 inch. it fit without the grind off, but i didnt want vibration to rub out and damage either part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dts300z Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I ordered up some motor mounts from summit. Trans-dapt 4500. looks nice, its a mount that bolts to the block and has a bar that gets welded to frame. so looks like it will work out nice for some mounts. Also chopped up the oil pan to make some clearance for the steering rack. Just waiting on the mounts now. Gonna go clean up my interior some and finish the alternator wiring and starter wires while im waiting. Good call! Here is a link for those interested. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-4500/?rtype=10 I wish I came across these!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_570ZX Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 Good call! Here is a link for those interested. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-4500/?rtype=10 I wish I came across these!!! yeah those are them, more then enough metal there so ill have to chop some off and will work out perfect for mounts. ill take some pics of the mounts after I set the engine. gonna be a few weeks, work finally called so im off and about, car gets to sit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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