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Coilovers with no camber plates


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Still in the learning process. I cant invision how stock springs and shocks would fit on the camber plate. Being that there are three spring bolts on top of the shock tower for the spring rubber boot that I dont see on a camber plate setup.

Are you suggesting raising the spring perch and cutting the springs? Or are you suggesting sectioning the strut tube alone with stock suspension? Why would you not recommend coilovers with no camber plates?

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I would recommend the ground control kit with modified stock upper spring perches if you don't want camber plates.

If you just don't want to cut your shock towers, John Coffey (johnc on here) sells a biscuit style kit that doesn't require any sheet metal to install. He can hook you up with the collars and springs if you need them too.

Camber plates aren't designed to be used with stock springs.

 

In my opinion, if you're going with coil overs you should section the struts at the same time.

A drop that doesn't require sectioning of the struts can easily be had with a set of lowering springs.

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With coilovers, are the three stock spring bolts on the shock tower no longer used? Just the one shock bolt holds it in? I found a small pictorial where it looks like the guy used ground control kit with no camber plates. Just grind off the stock perch, shorten the shock tower and weld in threaded sleave.

Main reason for this swap is for tire width. Doing a 350 swap and want height adjustability with the widest tires possible. no flares. Also a somewhat stiffer sportier suspension.

Edited by 280z4me2
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Is the width of the old spring isolator smaller then the width of the coilover spring? Do teh springs wrap around like the stock springs do?

I am confused how the coilovers mount to the shock tower. Is it just the single shock bolt?

Also, I have been looking at shocks and some look to have a spring perch on them. What are these used for if the spring perch is welded on the strut tube from the factory?

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Can you explain to me how how the tension control rod kit in this list allow camber adjustments...???

STAGE 3 takes adjustability a step further.

1. New outer tie rod ends

2. New ball joints

3. Polyurethane bushings and Gmachine control arm bushings and TC rod kit (these allow camber adjustment front and rear and also toe adjustment in rear)

4. Repack/tighten front wheel bearings

5. Replace rear wheel bearings if needed

6. Aftermarket front and rear swaybars

7. Coilover spring conversion to 2.5" springs. Street springs generally under ~250 in/lbs.

8. Aftermarket shocks (Tokico HP, Tokico Illumina, Koni Red)

9. Bumpsteer spacers

10. Biscuit style bolt in camber/caster plates (EMI, DP racing)

11. Strut tower bars front and back, preferrably triangulated to the firewall in front

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I do not want to jack this thread but i am also building coilovers for a daily driver and i am trying to decide whether to go with stock strut tops and bushing type camber adjusters or TTT tops. Do you think that the bushing type will give enough adjustment front or rear?

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