inline6 Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 (edited) I'm finally going to be building a full custom engine. I hope to have it built over the next couple of months. I worked all winter on the cylinder head... Porting, unshrouding valves, porting intake manifold, rebuilding Mikuni 44's, refacing intake manifold etc. The crank is at the cam grinder. It is being offset ground for more stroke, lightened, balanced, and NPT plugs installed. It should be coming back across the country to my engine builder this week. I'll be certain to get some pics before it goes in the block. For now, here are some pics of the Mikuni setup and the cylinder head and cam. The cam is a Sunbelt grind. Edited March 27, 2011 by inline6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozconnection Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Nice rockers and stuff! What's the deal with that head?..I can't see any quench with those chambers at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 The head is a late style E88. Here is what the combustion chamber looks like stock (taken from the pinned post in this forum which identifies the heads): The combustion chamber on this head is certainly not the most ideal, but I'm hoping it won't hurt things much with my combination. The cc's are 45.6. Mine has been milled about .017" total. With flat topped (forged) pistons, the compression ratio is going to be about 10.7 to 1. If I put a dome on the pistons, I can get some quench back, yes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 (edited) After I have the motor together, this TWM 45 setup is going on to replace the Mikuni's. I plan to use the Electromotive FI for ignition with both setups... get the Mikuni combo dyno'd and then switch over to see how much more I get from the FI. TWM 45 mm throttle body FI set up: Electromotive tec FI/ignition: Edited March 29, 2011 by inline6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 (edited) No crankshaft yet... getting antsy. Anyway, here are a couple of pics of the in air box (from England) and filter arrangement. I had to cut a hole in the firewall for the 3" inlet. Not sure where I am going to put the air filter yet. Probably will cut the pipe a bit shorter and move the filter out of the air stream for the radiator. Radiator is a crossflow unit from Jags that Run. Edited April 5, 2011 by inline6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvemfast Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 I'll be watching your progress as it's similar to my project. I'm going forged 89mm domed pistons with forged FJ20 rods using P90 head. Using 44PHH Mikuni's with TWM manifold and cold air box. Haven't done any block or crank work yet, just collecting for now. So hence. The interest in your build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted April 6, 2011 Author Share Posted April 6, 2011 Interesting combo. How long are the FJ20 rods? I'll be using some Eagle aftermarket rods from a Toyota Celica. They are 5.428" long and weigh about 565 grams. Here is a link to some of my engine build info. These numbers have changed just a touch, but I'll update the info at the link soon: EngineBuild The air box I have is a direct copy of the TWM box by the way. I confirmed that - contacted the guy that originally made them. Now they are sold by someone else. Don't know if you plan on using a TWM box with the TWM manifold... Anyway, this one is much better quality than the TWM box (I got one of those with the FI setup I bought on eBay). This one is made of fiberglass. The walls are a bit thicker also. I think it was around $250 with no customs or duties. Let me know if you would like the contact info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted April 6, 2011 Author Share Posted April 6, 2011 (edited) Kameari parts arrived today from Japan. Only took 4 days for delivery! No customs or duties... Edited April 6, 2011 by inline6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Kameari parts arrived today from Japan. Only took 4 days for delivery! No customs or duties... Is that a little radioactive glow coming from those parts Seriously, nice build you got going. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rally Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Pm´d You about that air box details.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 Is that a little radioactive glow coming from those parts Yeah, I'm pretty sure that if I don't lick them, I'll only knock one year off my life. But, they are so pretty, I am thinking about licking them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvemfast Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Is that a little radioactive glow coming from those parts I've actually wondered if they where north or south of Tokyo, obviously south. Glad that they are ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvemfast Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Kameari parts arrived today from Japan. Only took 4 days for delivery! No customs or duties... How much were these items? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvemfast Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 How long are the FJ20 rods? 140mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 Pm´d You about that air box details.. So the box is £160 plus shipping - which is currently $261US plus shipping. He sold me a cosmetic blem for a few dollars less... Here is the website: http://www.mjpshop.co.uk/product_info.php?id=113&pid=437 I paid by PayPal. Here is the contact info: Mike Feeney at MJP (Eastern Auto) Brentwood, Essex Here is a thread on zclub.net with lots of info about the box: http://zclub.net/forum/240z-260z/16484-air-box-fitting-tips.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 How much were these items? $928 including shipping. The website has seriously cool parts for z cars... but most are way overpriced. http://www.rhdjapan.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 140mm Nice. That makes for a really nice rod to stroke ratio. Pin height on those pistons is going to be what... about 25mm? G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rally Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Thx for that info!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted April 26, 2011 Author Share Posted April 26, 2011 (edited) Crankshaft should be arriving any day now. Can't wait... In the mean time, I've learned from reading the forums that combustion chambers should be polished - not glass beaded! So, I did that. You can see the undercut on the side of the chamber here. I was copying a 510 head I had done by Malvern racing long ago. I also learned from the forums that the N42 block is the one to use for 89 mm bore. Wow. I was going to use my F54 block. Luckily, I still have my N42 block from an earlier motor. How about this casting flash??? I spend a couple of hours with an air powered hand held belt sander... belts are 3/8" wide by 13" long, one of my latest tool aquisitions. Going through belts rather faster than I had hoped. I am using Norton 60 grit. Looks like it is going to take about 5 to do most of the inside of the block. Anyone have some left over Glyptal on the shelf? I don't think it takes a full quart to do one block, but that is the only quantity I can find for sale. Edited April 26, 2011 by inline6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Try going at it with a carbide bit first, and then following up with the sander. I'd imagine that the casting flash would cut through those belts rather quickly! Where are you getting your rods from? I had come to the same conclusion when I was designing an over the top turbo build for a customer who wanted to "keep it all datsun" under the hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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