cygnusx1 Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 (edited) For the pan bolts, I used my cordless drill with the adjustable slip clutch. On minimum, it's slightly over finger tight (my fingers, when clean). I'll go around 2 or 3 times with the drill, really fast passes, to set the pan up evenly. I go back later and set the clutch tighter for the next stage when the sealant has set up. The point is, that the drill with clutch keeps them all really even, and it's fast. If you have a small torque wrench, you can calibrate the drill clutch. I just do it by "feel" now. After many years of wrenching, you get to know, what can tighten to what within reason. Especially where the absolute value is non critical. IMHO torquing every screw and bolt to a spec is kind of OCD for non critical areas. There is a place for torque wrenches, but not at every single fastener...unless you are building a high performance motor for endurance competition. Edited May 18, 2011 by cygnusx1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 "IMHO torquing every screw and bolt to a spec is kind of OCD for non critical areas." Obviously you have never sat in dock and been before a grand jury regarding a mechanical failure... Some advice if you work on expensive stuff: "Trust not your instincts, but rely on the table of torques and your calibrated wrench for everything!" Actually, with the little Snap-On Screwdriver Torquemeter it's really quick, not as quick as a power drill, but no slower than suing a simple ratchet. I might argue the Torquemeter is FASTER than a ratchet because you go to where you know it's supposed to be and spend less time (over)tightening fasteners! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 (edited) Absolutely Tony, My comment should have a disclaimer limiting it to backyard stuff, between friends, that will only ever stand trial from traffic light to traffic light. I should have stopped at: I like to use my cordless click-clutch drill for boring repetitive work. Edited May 20, 2011 by cygnusx1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 I have a nice 3/8" electric impact from I-R that works wonders for chassis stuff as well, but on the job it's only ever used for removal. And that's what I stress to the guys I'm supervising as well: "Impacts are only for removing, torque wrenches are for installation every time." With litigation invading more and more worksites after the fact, guys with good work habits find they don't sweat nearly as much when the investigators come around! Matter of fact this morning in my e-mail there was a note on something being investigated in Australia, due to oil leakage and a resultant small fire. Government investigators crawling around... Maybe I'll have to stand in dock in Australia... I don't want to, there the OH&S laws are very strict and if you weren't supervising closely YOU go to JAIL if there is a death or serious injury involved! Makes you think 2X! (Hell, they have investigators who look over cars after accidents---guess what, "personal use" on a public street? You're liable if they can trace it to your workmanship. Things open your eyes.... I digress! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 (edited) OK now that we are off topic a bit, check out this company based on a relatively simple invention. The company is right around the corner from where I worked, and what made me investigate, is that every day of the week there was a new super car parked out front. Veyron, F50, F40, Diablo, Mclaren...I swear it was a daily cycle of super cars. Not much apparently going on inside the building, so I had to investigate. http://www.hytorc.com/ It has an ingenious little secret that let's you apply torque to the bolt with cancelled kick back. The secret is in that the threaded portion of the "counter torque nut" (load disc), is "splined" into the hex portion, allowing it to slide axially as the stud stretches. One of the few bolts approved for oil pipeline use. Now I know why he has an exotic for every day of the week. Tony, if you aren't using these, you might consider upgrading to them. http://www.hytorc.co...load-technology Edited May 20, 2011 by cygnusx1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 22, 2011 Share Posted May 22, 2011 We already converted to Superbolt for most of the Aermet studs, tooling fits in your pocket, and doesn't need anything special other than their JL-G Lubricant for proper friction on the threads of the Superbolt forcing screws and hardened washer. We replaced a hydraulic pretensioner with these as the makeup was actually more repeatable under field conditions. I used Hytorcs on Enterpirse IMO engines, as well as other oil refinery stuff. Hydraulic wrenches are nice on Turbine Work as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.