need some clarification about diff/cv swap

[nissun1]

Hey guys i need some clarification about the porsche cv swap. What can i use that will adapt to the diff output flange that will allow me to bolt up the cv's? I saw what wolf creek racing offers but its just too expensive for the porsche cv upgrade kit. Is there any alternative that i can do for this swap to work? I would rather not shell out $250 for each side stub axle...but if i had to would i need it to work with the subi diff? Are they strong enough to work with high torque applications(400+)?

Btw im using a subi diff out of a 2004 wsx sti. So the spline count is 27 if that helps.

Here is what im trying to go for although as you can see in one of the pictures there is 6 bolts that bolt up the flange from the diff to the cv.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php//topic/41590-prosche-930-cv-adapters-completed/page__p__387042__hl__930%20cv__fromsearch__1

 

As for the wheel hub side it looks like what he did was weld up the studs that bolts to the flange assembly.

[nissun1]

Hey guys i need some clarification about the porsche cv swap. What can i use that will adapt to the diff output flange that will allow me to bolt up the cv's? I saw what wolf creek racing offers but its just too expensive for the porsche cv upgrade kit. Is there any alternative that i can do for this swap to work? I would rather not shell out $250 for each side stub axle...but if i had to would i need it to work with the subi diff? Are they strong enough to work with high torque applications(400+)?

Btw im using a subi diff out of a 2004 wsx sti. So the spline count is 27 if that helps.

Here is what im trying to go for although as you can see in one of the pictures there is 6 bolts that bolt up the flange from the diff to the cv.

http://forums.hybrid...__fromsearch__1

 

As for the wheel hub side it looks like what he did was weld up the studs that bolts to the flange assembly.

 

Need some feedback pls if anyone knows

[JMortensen]

CV conversions are expensive. If you're using the Subaru diff, you would either need to a. use the Beta Motorsports stubs and the Wolf Creek style CV adapters, or b. Use the Subaru inner CV joint with a custom shaft to a outer 280ZXT or 300ZXT outer CV with a Modern Motorsports adapter. Either way you're buying expensive adapters. If you had the expertise you could have some machined, but if not I'm guessing you'd pay a machinist more than you would Beta Motorsports or Modern Motorsports.

 

I would suggest that since you didn't feel it was necessary to upgrade to the R200, you just stick with the Beta Motorsports stubs and stock U-jointed halfshafts. Halfshafts aren't as cool, but there is probably not gong to be a noticeable difference between halfshafts and CV's. Wolf Creek talks about picking up hp on the dyno, but that was with 510s which have some REALLY bad u-joint angles when lowered. I don't think you'll see much if any hp benefit on a Z unless you've done something really wrong on the rear suspension.

[nissun1]

CV conversions are expensive. If you're using the Subaru diff, you would either need to a. use the Beta Motorsports stubs and the Wolf Creek style CV adapters, or b. Use the Subaru inner CV joint with a custom shaft to a outer 280ZXT or 300ZXT outer CV with a Modern Motorsports adapter. Either way you're buying expensive adapters. If you had the expertise you could have some machined, but if not I'm guessing you'd pay a machinist more than you would Beta Motorsports or Modern Motorsports.

 

I would suggest that since you didn't feel it was necessary to upgrade to the R200, you just stick with the Beta Motorsports stubs and stock U-jointed halfshafts. Halfshafts aren't as cool, but there is probably not gong to be a noticeable difference between halfshafts and CV's. Wolf Creek talks about picking up hp on the dyno, but that was with 510s which have some REALLY bad u-joint angles when lowered. I don't think you'll see much if any hp benefit on a Z unless you've done something really wrong on the rear suspension.

 

I was initially although a buddy of mine recommended a subi r180 as apposed to a r200. Due to the fact they are strong enough to handle some good numbers as well. I was worried the half shafts wont be able to handle some lowered angles as well as hold up to an ls swap..I figured a cv convo would so i thought some first hand experience would help. Isnt the u joints as well as the stub axles on the hub prone to snapping?

[JMortensen]

Yes, the U-joints are a weak point. If you're doing an LS swap and drag racing or otherwise testing the strength of the shafts, you'll need to spend money for a CV conversion and maybe a stub axle conversion as well.

[nissun1]

the issue is will there be any binding issues with either of the swaps? (lower stance) no drag racing more of tracking..

[ezzzzzzz]

Upgrades are fine. You mentioned an LSx swap. The bottom line is are you going to pursue that engine swap...really? Not picking at all but we all envision these things while many just don't have the resources to pull it off.

The R180 is a great diff for many applications including V8 engines. It depends on the transmission, driving habits (cruising, drag racing, hard launches), tires (slippery or sticky), what type of diff internals, etc. as to whether the R180 will hold up or not. It does weigh less than the R200 too. The stock u-joint halfshafts have been around for years and proved their worthiness. Failures can be attributed to a lot of factors but I'd lean towards neglected 30+ year old u-joints as the primary problem. I built my CV conversions simply because I wanted to. They were bolted to a R180 clutch LSD 4.1:1 until that diff finally wore slam out. I then built a R200 Quaife LSD 3.9:1 and modified the CV axles to fit. I actually welded the adapters to the R200 diff stub flanges this time around. All of this for a 160hp L24... but the L(D)28 SC'd stroker is nearly complete after over 3 years.

Bottomline is you'll not get the CV conversion any cheaper unless you have the abilities to machine the adapters and even then the savings won't be that much. I haven't looked at the Wolf Creek kit closely. Do they use the small Porsche flanges/boots or the larger flanges/boots typically found on offroad trucks?

Edited April 26, 2011 by ezzzzzzz

[nissun1]

thanks for the helpful input. I believe they use the porsche 930 boots and cv flanges.

i think the subi cv swap will suffice.

[nissun1]

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/73182-subaru-sti-r180-differential-and-axle-conversion-revised/page__p__696189__hl__%2Bsubaru+%2Bdiff+%2B__fromsearch__1#entry696189

 

Im gonna shoot for this type of setup so all i would need would be:

Sti axels(outer shaft to diff with cv)

custom inner shaft with the right spline count

280z stub axle flange

280z flange

am i missing anything ?

[nissun1]

i figured it out lol i see how the swap works all nizzan used was a stub axle flange from a 240z then welded to the subi cv(part where it splines to the wheel hub).

did he cut the stub off hmmm..

[kamikaZeS30]

To be honest, and I think JM already touched on it, the Wolf Creek set-up seems expensive at first, but when you get to putting a kit together yourself you start realizing it's actually quite reasonably priced.

 

I ended up spending about $1100 on my conversion and I thought I did pretty well for that much. I got 280Z stub axles/hubs (the 240z stub axles can shear), and a set of modified 280Z companion flanges another member was selling (from modern motorsports, and it came with an extra set of CV axles), new inner/outer wheel bearings and a reman'd set of 300zx turbo CVs. Granted, I'm running on R200 (which is necessary for 300ZXT CVs), just because with a V8 I don't want to chance it-- it's A LOT more rotating mass than the L6. Also, I'm not an expert, but I'd imagine that the Subaru clutch packs in the LSD assembly weren't designed for the low-end torque of an American V8, I know for some this has been an issue with the Nissan CLSDs.

[JMortensen]

If you're feeling adventurous you could take an inner Subie CV and and out 300ZXT CV and have a shaft made splined for the Subie inner and the Nissan outer. Then you would still need MM's CV adapters. I think that a V8, especially one that is going to be beat on, deserves upgraded stub axles as well. So yeah, it's going to be expensive unless you just run stock stubs, and then you've got a weak link in the chain.

[rsicard]

To be honest, and I think JM already touched on it, the Wolf Creek set-up seems expensive at first, but when you get to putting a kit together yourself you start realizing it's actually quite reasonably priced.

 

I ended up spending about $1100 on my conversion and I thought I did pretty well for that much. I got 280Z stub axles/hubs (the 240z stub axles can shear), and a set of modified 280Z companion flanges another member was selling (from modern motorsports, and it came with an extra set of CV axles), new inner/outer wheel bearings and a reman'd set of 300zx turbo CVs. Granted, I'm running on R200 (which is necessary for 300ZXT CVs), just because with a V8 I don't want to chance it-- it's A LOT more rotating mass than the L6. Also, I'm not an expert, but I'd imagine that the Subaru clutch packs in the LSD assembly weren't designed for the low-end torque of an American V8, I know for some this has been an issue with the Nissan CLSDs.

 

When it comes to the power and torque of a V8 engine, the 280Z stub axles have an inherent design weak spot. Best to go with the MM beefy stub axles.

[nissun1]

When it comes to the power and torque of a V8 engine, the 280Z stub axles have an inherent design weak spot. Best to go with the MM beefy stub axles.

 

i agree also. kinda pricey but i'd rather do it right the first time around.. if anyone has a set i can take em off your hands