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90 tooth wheel on Damper


zack_280

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I am going EDIS and plan to replace my damper. I actually bought the kit from Derek, but I think I'm going to try to adapt it for the slightly cheaper 'performance' damper from MSA. Or I may try to sell this one and get the 75-78 280Z damper to use with Derek's kit. Anyway, is anyone familiar with the damper below? The PO spent a lot of money on the motor, but got married before finishing the car and his priorities changed. I didn't get an explaination from him on why he used this damper or toothed wheel. It seemed a little odd since he spent so much $ building the motor and kept the car as light as possible, but then used this huge damper.

 

 

Thoughts and ramblings welcome.

 

 

Pic 1 looking down at an angle from the top.

IMG_20110506_182404.jpg

 

 

 

Pic 2 Front

IMG_20110506_182322.jpg

 

 

 

Pic 3 Rear

IMG_20110506_182331.jpg

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OK. That answers the purpose of this topic. The next question is is there a problem with replacing this with the MSA 'performance damper'? I really don't mind using this one. Acutally I would prefer it, it just seems that it will be difficult to adapt the 36-1 trigger wheel to it and the cheapest solution would be this damper from MSA.

 

My goal is to first find a balance of the most reliable and practical solution. Practical from the standpoint of price and application. The application is not a full race motor, but will see quite a bit of time on a race track.

 

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PEM06

 

 

Thanks again for the help.

 

Zack

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Im putting the EDIS kit from Derek on as well. Im trying to figure out how to set the engine to TDC with the 81 pulley... Do you line up one of the 3 small teeth on the timing mark "0"? This is still on an 81 turbo engine.

Edited by Challenger
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Im putting the EDIS kit from Derek on as well. Im trying to figure out how to set the engine to TDC with the 81 pulley... Do you line up one of the 3 small teeth on the timing mark "0"? This is still on an 81 turbo engine.

Pretty sure the key in the snout should be straight up and down relative to the block but not the ground, because the block is tilted to the left when looking straight at it.

30s7v9w.jpg

 

You can get it pretty close to TDC, within 5º, by eyeballing and using a straight edge. Then you can look and see what notch lines up with the pointer. I always forget how that works. My '72 pointer has like 6 points or whatever on it, and now the '81 balance has another 3 notches. :bonk:

Edited by josh817
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TDC is determined between timing marks and actually indicating the engine. Read the FSM (81 Turbo Supplement) for which marks are TDC on that unit. I had some stuff on that when I used that setup on my MS---it's on sharkie73z's cardomain page someplace---you can check it out, only 14 pages to sift through. Mostly useless information anyway.

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Yeah I had ended up just finding Close to tdc by feeling the spark plug hole with a screwdriver and my finger. I determined I was on compression and stopped where I thought it was close. When I looked down it showed the little tooth sitting at like 45 degrees, I moved it to 0. I'm hoping that's tdc...

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