[EMWHYR0HEN]

I got rid of the old lines and fittings and replaced them with new 3/16 copper nickel line, 10mm x 1 brass nuts and replacied the saftey switch with a 10mm brass 3-way tee. Also, I got rid of the stock proportioning valve and replaced it with a wilwood adjustable one. I got all the hardware from automec,which is located in England, best prices Iv'e found and received it in a week. I recomend the copper line because it's super easy to bend, and it forms/ seats nicely when the fittings are tightened.

I was on a budget so I got a tubing bender from Harbor Freight, pipe cutter and a 45 degree flaring tool at Sears. This is my first time doing all this stuff so it doesnt look the greatest, But I'm happy to say Iv'e got no leaks! even with cheap tools!

I'm planning on running the Modern Motorsports rear brake setup, and from the info I got here the F/R bias with the AZC front is almost perfect, being just a little front biased. I installed an adjustable prop. valve just in case the setup is rear biased, or if I plan to make some rear brake changes. With the Adj. prop valve installed, will it decrease rear pressure even if the knob is turned all the way down?












Iv'e got to give credit to BJ for giving me the idea to route the line FR line on the cross menber. Thanks BJ!

[gdv350ss]

Myron,

The links provided won't allow you to get to the pics. I'm anxious to see them.

I'm learning allot by following your progress. Great work! Keep the updates coming!

[EMWHYR0HEN]

Sorry, tried somthing new.

Enjoy

[getZ]

There's a reason why you don't see copper lines on most cars. Pure copper is not that strong. There's an automotive grade line out of England for classic cars that's supposed to okay, but I would be a little leery about using it in a car that will see a lot of track time.

I used prebent stainless lines from classic tube. For the most part the lines were pretty close to what they needed to be so not a lot of bending and the price was a couple hundred bucks. My only complaint was a mismatch on the flare seating they used. The distribution block on the 240z is a weird fitting seat. It's easier to pull that thing out and use standard t-fittings with 45 or 30 degree seats.

[JMortensen]

getZ said:

There's a reason why you don't see copper lines on most cars. Pure copper is not that strong. There's an automotive grade line out of England for classic cars that's supposed to okay, but I would be a little leery about using it in a car that will see a lot of track time.

He's not using copper. That's cupronickel. It's supposed to be the best hard brake line material you can get. There have been threads on its benefits before, you can search cupronickel and find out more about it if you're interested.

[tkach]

Nice work! any reason you decided to place the brake bias knob under the hood? Some benifit I dont know about?

[EMWHYR0HEN]

It's not the ordinary copper line you see at Home Depot, lol. As Jon stated it's copper nickel and used in lots of european applications. One thing I did notice about the tubing was that the wall was thicker than the stock steel lines.

I heard stainless lines are a PITA to bend and flare, which is why I stayed clear from that as I have no experience with hydraulic plumbing.

Thanks tkach.
I placed the prop. valve there simply because I didn't wan't my jack ass freinds messing with it ( sad, I know) and once It's set, It's set.

[EMWHYR0HEN]

280ZForce said:

Looks good Myron, maybe you can supply me with the links for the products for everything you used. I just bought the wilwood front brake setup and and brake bias valve and will need to do something similar, except mount my prop valve inside.

Oh and I still have your Hybrid Z stickers you never picked up.

This is where you hide it inside on the driver side tunnel down low or have a carpet patch covering it via velcro hinges?

Or just don't let them ride in the Z...simple. Cuz you shouldn't have to worry about your "friends" messing w/ the safety of you, them & the car.

Thanks J.

You can find the parts here : http://www.automec.c.../frame_set.html

Give me my sticker dahmit!

[tube80z]

EMWHYR0HEN said:

Thanks J.

You can find the parts here : http://www.automec.c.../frame_set.html

And here, in case this is cheaper

http://store.fedhill...andhydline.aspx

Cary