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Everything posted by tube80z

  1. I don't think you'll gain too much going down this road. If you start tilting the engine you don't have much room until the balancer hits the steering rack. Even with my motor brushing the firewall I still have little clearance on the motor front drive. Another option I have seen on some of the GT cars is they use a much longer transmission input shaft and have a spacer between the bellhousing and the transmission. This wasn't done so much for dropping the transmission but to move the main weight back and help the car rotate faster. The main problem Is the height of the input shaft. If the transmission could be rotated or turned upside down you can drop a lot more. The problem is the mounting tabs at the front of the transmission. This is why I was thinking of using the spacer because the transmission side of the spacer doesn't have same problem. So now you can drop a little more. Still not easy to pull all this off and no over the counter parts you can use unless you happen to find one on ebay or some other auction site. Another crackpot idea that came to me is to faux convert this two-shaft transmission into a three-shaft version with a low input shaft. You can buy these if you have an extra $20K sitting around. I think the way Ben is spending he'll probably do that next year :-). All kidding aside, you could do this and make a drop gear setup that would mimic have a quick change rear end. I think you might even be able to use normal quick change gears. That's a lot of custom parts but this is HybridZ after all.
  2. My bad, it's actually a powerbond crank damper. It's SFI certified and is 25% underdrive. I picked the small diameter balancer for the under drive but it gave me more room for the rack housing. It's similar to https://www.competitionproducts.com/PowerBond-25-Underdrive-Race-Series-Harmonic-Balancer-for-Chev-LS-Gen-III/productinfo/PBDPBU1117SS25/. It used to be $100 but now seems to have gone up to $225. There are some cheaper versions you can still find for a little over $100. I think I got mine on sale from Summit or maybe Jegs. The three bolt spindle drive will bolt to this balancer and that's a key to make it work. By the spindle used and save $$. Here's an example of a new version from Allstar https://www.ebay.com/itm/384486498045?hash=item59852e5efd:g:M0MAAOSw3MVhhqTS&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8F4bqIC%2BDvZQgMzlOkkjSXdk13YtepU0NwS6lsxh8c1jGteULvFYFK0POgUlEJYyAAbUIOa9QGKnFqTNIdbmIzoCfmcVTQM1zRSn51mCqTO0ESfd7pnWHuJuOZUDfZ8TzzEaDlY%2F3iE%2FouAqdwJ1S3bEumCbujZcqdyCjCtEjZW9ofVG9qwi%2FIwXGfPJEh5%2B3insi5NOnKiVIcWEAZVaP9WyCURR2xMuddMniRxgjToxq0Wrwx38Um00cFo2jsLW7tYRMkSZ58MjEeyFHBE8ejMerz96yBbUHvs1894%2FQcFgps8U5irwMKwrPQnnFqyFkA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7SVnvPoYA. These usually come in a couple different styles and you need to pick one and stick with it. There's the keyed version and the other is pinned design. Here's a cool version built by CV and you'll find a lot of variations similar to this from Nascar teams, https://www.ebay.com/itm/363954963537?hash=item54bd680451:g:I2MAAOSw~0hjBB6Q&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoF1hs1m6he7XtSjsk64H%2Fecpd7DwTU0f65uRR%2FZE0WO0lsEjOEc3L5j4Dv8dQTn0RJqER%2BGlrI1Qs4HLULORZaqbAdVDI9U3ZWzwoM6aIX6mWDXkXUPnbghc9bWtpoPSinTPWMDM1PhrgX8I0e0YZ7wZDmHPtK%2FmbOaxq1Oi3MaIOxk4djBidcbE0u0tpGqJ2dirj3u5dMETsVecA6gdvAY%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_DJj_PoYA. For the clutch you can buy these used and convert from a 3-disk to a two disk by replacing the friction disks with a thicker cerametallic versions. If you compare the stack heights between these versions you'll see what you need. The clutch you pick doesn't matter but from here on it will. When you get a LGC bellhousing they will mount the reverse starter so the ring gear either needs to be on the crank hub or can be mounted to the clutch cover. You'll need to use a hydraulic throwout bearing that is for the bellhousing you get. Tilton or Quartermaster are slightly different in one often uses a 3-bolt mount and the other is 4-bolt. For the LS engine you'll can pick the Chevy or Toyota bellhousings as both will mount up. Quartermaster: https://www.ebay.com/itm/195030378315?epid=2168467634&hash=item2d68b7674b:g:mEQAAOSwPHRidCrI&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsK%2BT7IHloyA4QBuQKYVTxqDpEq3Y2f4R%2FqID3jYexvxRteyr6veiJL5h5cdAJdLT3LirTM5snf%2BpHpsNev02ocsnUVSRfnwa%2F4L83Li%2BVwP0F%2F7RZNk8gq%2FpLQNRFj6%2B3yGMW9kTZ0bh97uBpfepvl9oPyGZkSdb2kT1GRGtzGBKWd%2Bn9nVir0vYRHT59uv%2Fi6UtTe9l5E2y5HXzS%2FklmCtgJe19EpZI7DFrikO1qo%2Bb|tkp%3ABk9SR9SR0PToYA Tilton https://www.ebay.com/itm/185468160405?epid=803202272&hash=item2b2ec38995:g:kkAAAOSwvYdirI3s&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsI%2Bt4O5%2FXxC7Kh87PPstWD5xxiHUwioLilbefIFNBDpAPTZKJ8dM2SuvgeWjSOa%2BUpFCeqpNMbRMOXKFxKXpS2mP6VkrNjH8G1ZVfqYXIuAIhUwYSUhsgZgHfZqvK6XG8KTkJS4%2FM%2BMSGX6oBJUONKYKgmLeBWkE9FZSUVBZSz%2BhMLVzMOEDgT%2BNUo7SUFYDVvlIzPqztQ3%2BHhgNaMK67w9nzuKhbvYDLRr4rRaxsZ3V|tkp%3ABk9SR9SR0PToYA In case you're curious the entire flywheel, clutch, and cover weights about 13 pounds.
  3. I have a dry sump for my LS engine. I did this setup on the cheap using mostly recycled Nascar parts and have a few pointers to pass along. I saved a ton of money on the drive system. Most people opt for the ATI damper ($495) and special hub ($125) that has the belt behind the damper. This is a great setup but adds to the cost. Instead, I used a Aussie CAT damper ($100) and bought a used BBC pulley drive ($25-50) that mounts to the CAT damper. This places the dry sump belt in front of the damper rather than behind like the ATI version and is how the pumps intend to be mounted. This is a common mounting method used by both Chevy and Ford. You'll find a ton of drives on eBay and I bought from a Nascar supplier of used parts. Mine comes from Hendricks Motorsport and included ARP studs for the damper and 12-point jet nuts. It also included a 24-tooth pulley and looked like it was never used. Most of the Nascar parts are based on an HTD belts rather than a Gilmer. I went for a 50% drive reduction on the pump (another eBay part). For the pump, I ended up winning two Auto Verdi pumps (roots blower type $600 for both) in both 5 and 6-stage configurations. The lines that came with each won't work for me but I'll re-use the fittings as they are special for the Auto Verdi pump. Pumps have increased in price but are still much less than a new one. I have about $250 in BMRS AN lines and fittings and will be able to do the entire car and my street car project too. A lot of the Nascar AN lines are Brown and Miller (BMRS) or the lightweight Aeroquip variety. You'll need to pick a brand and stick with it as the hose diameters are not interchangeable. I chose BMRS because the AV pump came that way rather than anything else. I scrounged around for BMRS hoses that had replaceable ends that allowed me to use the AV pump side and a screen pickup, which is needed on the roots/rotor style pumps as they don't handle debris very well. The other plus is you can take apart crimped BMRS hose ends and reuse them by carefully removing the crimp ring and then getting them re-crimped using a new ring. I bought some super long dash 16 and 12 hoses so I can mount the tank at the rear and send the scavenge lines to this. I'm using a 5-gallon tank that I'll fill partially fill and see how it works. I also have a smaller 3-gallon that I picked up later that I may use if the 5-gallon isn't cutting it. The oil supply then leads to the water-to-oil heat exchanger and then goes into an AN fitting for the LS block. I can find the part number for that part if you'd like. I went for a cheap steel version rather than alloy. It bolts into the driver's side of the block where the current plug sits. I was originally going to use a CX dry sump pan until a friend bought one and had to change how it was made. The stock one is highly overpriced and fits like crap. You can easily make a similar pan from a stock oil pan that you partially cut the sump out (Camaro pan for me). and weld a new bottom on. You'll then need to make a channel to be the low point for the oil or just make the floor of the pan aim down towards the pickups. And that's a copy of the CX version for a lot less. You can probably do the same thing with the truck pan but I've never seen one close up. I should mention I went to all this trouble to have rock solid oil supply to the engine and less worry. But more importantly to drop the motor about 3 inches compared to stock Camaro mounting. I'm using a 7.25-inch Quarter master rally clutch (2 thicker discs but a standard 3-disc item when stacked). This was also courtesy of some Nascar team and was almost new. The starter rear mounts from the bellhousing and it will require some massaging of the tunnel. I have essentially the same transmission as you. Oddly the gearbox is the part that ran into ground clearance problems before the engine. I still could drop the latter another inch and have room. So how much did all this cost? About $1200 all in. Some parts have gone up but Nascar is changing things this next year so I expect to see some extra parts flooding eBay. You can probably do this for $1500 to $1800 very easily. If you price out an ARE 5-stage setup you'll find they are a lot more expensive. One thing I forgot to mention (actually two) is that the pump will draw a massive vacuum if you get it into its working range. You will need an air bleed to manage the internal engine pressure and high vacuum seals. There is one expensive part I bought but did not include in the total. It's the Russell air bleed/backfire prevention unit and is around $400. I don't need a separate breather/catch tank as that came with the 5-gallon tank and is mounted off the side. The part I haven't finished is the mount but it will be a spacer off the front motor plate that I'm using. I'm using this to build a bulkhead across the strut towers and the bottom will connect to the crossmember and its braces. My low ground clearance bellhousing (LGC) came with a really interesting machined bulkhead for allowing AN hose to pass into the firewall but stay attached to the engine when you pull it so you don't have to remove any lines and you have Wiggins connections at the firewall. I still have to finalize how some of the lines will run and where I want the oil heat exchanger. I'm seriously looking at moving the radiator to the rear of the car so I can close off more of the nose for downforce although that decision may come back to bite me. I'm running the manifold on backwards and pulling in air from what's left of my cowling. I would recommend you pin the damper as you don't need it spinning on you. The tools to do this are pretty cheap and it's really easy to do (says someone who hasn't done it :-)) Cary
  4. You could add autosport connectors to the Notec to mess with people even more.
  5. I used to think all 3D-printers were only good for making figurines. Once your eyes are opened to what they can really do and how much then can help with one-off parts you wonder how you missed this. Or at least I do. Love the updates Clarke.
  6. My advice is to keep high-pressure air out of the underside of any surface. That's why you often ducting the front radiator adds so much downforce compared to a lot of other mods. In the fender example I'd do what Jon said and flat plate the back of the light bucket and use that as your air scoop. Then run a replica inner wheel liner and call it good. I don't think EP offers enough scope to allow for s-flaps or doing an inner bucket style liner. Cary
  7. One thing I'd advise is if you decide to use alarms in your data system/dash to auto shutdown that you create a dual-channel alarm strategy where you have two sensors or another way to back into the data for a sanity check. Over the years I've seen far too many races lost when a team stops the car and finds out either the sensor failed or a wire fell off or was destroyed with heat. Fire suppression is another area where this strategy is handy. It's great to have an onboard system but also have access to a handheld one can often put out the fire. The onboard systems generally don't do this as they are mostly intended to buy the driver time to bail out.
  8. Have you considered the LV3? It's 3/4 of an LT5 DI motor and 100 pounds lighter than the LS. Scoggin-Dickey has a cam that gives 360 HP and 365 ft-lbs. of torque. BTR are supposedly working on a cam package that will go over 400 HP. Cary
  9. Unless you want to run at the pointy end of EP I'd personally take that penalty. It also depends on how much your car weighs. I've seen people pay stupid amounts of money for pointy end solutions on cars that never will make weight. So unless you need to ballast to get to legal weight I'd use decent brakes that you aren't having to rebuild between days or race weekends. The time you save can be put into better use like reviewing your race data, planning in the next change to try, etc.
  10. Brakes will be the hardest thing to make work. My friends used the S130 vented discs and front calipers to try and help with temp and get a bigger pad. In the end those required a bendix pad that worked at very high temps and as much air as can be sent to the disk and caliper. The rotors had to be cryo treated or they were throw away items after a weekend or two of races (buy good quality versions). When cooling down after races or practice I would use blowers and turn the wheels if you can. On the rears they used disks and a wilwood calipers and a lot of ducting. You're going to have knockback and all you can do is minimize it. If you can, float the rotors on hats. I'd also use bearing spacers and make sure you check all the tolerances with the bearings (REM finish them) as those and the spindle flexing will be a big factor in knockback. Make sure you brace the struts. On the wheel side I'd test their stiffness to lateral force. The stiffer the better for their weight. The stiffer wheels will work with slightly less camber. I'm sure I'm missing some of the tricks that were used. EP sucks when it comes to brakes on the S30s. Good luck and have fun. Cary
  11. I'll let my friends that race in GT-2 know they are doing it wrong For a street car, you don't need flares for most of the tire/wheel combos being discussed. One thing that's important to think about is how long will tires be available for your combo. I used to think 17s were needed to have an assortment of tire choices and now those are getting used less often. As much as I hate the look of 18s on a classic Z I'm thinking that may be my best option for my street car. I can tell you from personal experience it's not a lot of fun to have that perfect set of wheels you found for your ride become rather expensive conversation pieces because you can't find the tire sizes you need.
  12. You can attach the wipers or just the posts without needing everything else hooked up. Personally, I'd 3D print a piece that pops into the hole. Counter point is how do you clean stuff off your windshield while driving? Or am I the only guy that hits bugs that splatter to the size if a small saucer?
  13. A couple of thoughts. The cable is a push-pull morse type and you can get those in almost any length and perhaps cheaper than accusumps' versions. Don't worry about length as you can find just about anything you want these days. I really don't understand their bracket at all. Why wouldn't it by attached to the accumulator body. For the air you might think about using some AN hose or the cool plastic air bag/brake hose to more conveniently mount where the gauge and the charge port is. As it is pictured above you have a gauge on the end of some fittings and that can vibrate and potentially fail, although that's not guaranteed. Cary
  14. I found I needed to change the rear toe-link design from left-right threads to using different thread pitches as it was super sensitive when adjusting. I planned for but never made it far enough to change this all over to shims. I wanted a faster at the track way to make changes that didn't involve needing a lot of precision and had to be repeatable. I noticed most of the pro teams and car designs from 2000 on starting using that method instead of left-right threads. Your 3D printed tool reminds me of the flag alignment system I've seen some of the formula car guys use. It mounts over the top of the chassis and uses that to establish center. Measure camber, caster, track this way. Flip 90 degrees and measure toe. Much quicker than strings to setup and make adjustments.
  15. Looks vintage to me. It should be interesting to see if they allow it. I'll look through some of my really old photos to see if I happen to have any pictures of this done in period.
  16. Hi Clarke, Can you get away with a toe-link system in historics? If you can then I'd suggest the low friction mounting of the ARBs. I also use Susprog3D. I can remember my weekend of 16 hour days thinking all I have to do is measure this thing and it should take what, 4 hours max :-). I'm a hopeless optimist when it comes to estimating how long it takes me to do anything. BTW, I ordered this book in case you want a review or recommendation https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/3658351993/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 based on favorable feedback from the advanced data aq group on FB. Some good nuggets come from that in case you aren't already a member. Cary
  17. You can also glue them in. Weld the nut to the fender washer and then glue that into the car using any of the newer panel bonding adhesives that are used in modern cars. No shrink/stretch, allows for some small gaps, seals the entire surface from water getting behind it, and won't mess up any paint or lead to increased corrosion down the line. Just a thought.
  18. Another idea depending on the rules would be to vent the inner fenders and put some large section screen on the holes so rocks don't get stuck on top of the manifold. Usually the wheel wells are low pressure and should help manage the radiator air. Spats or sides to the airdam will also create more low pressure. Done right this will reduce the lift and make the car faster in a straight line. if you stand in front of the car you shouldn't see any of the tire tread area. If you do it needs to be covered.
  19. The cage was 1.5 x 0.125 for the main safety sections spelled out in the GCR. The extra bits were a mix of 0.095 and 0.065 that provided added bracing. I added 1" x 0.49 bracing in multiple areas to stop bending I found when doing some torsional and bending tests on the unibody. I personally think the car was so light as the shell was an early S30 and seemed to have thinner sheet metal in some areas compared to the later cars. The cage tied into all the normal suspension points and had a center section similar to Jon's V8 car where a tube ran down the middle connecting the front A-pillar cross bar with the rear diagonal. The strut towers had bracing that formed a Y structure front and rear that were connected into this. There were some other odd braces that looked Nascar inspired that I had thought about removing to add a passenger seat. This cage was scary and I was shocked that it ever passed tech at the hillclimb events. I found that the underside welds of most of the cage tubes were just bondo sanded over to look a weld. My guess is the PO couldn't weld upside down. I removed all this crap and completely welded around the tubes. In many areas I also added additional connections to the unibody. These all added weight but probably less than 5 pounds in total. Not on this car. That was an area of potential improvement. My V8 car has a setup somewhat like Jon's but I'm running a dry sump on the LS and mushroom flywheel. The ring gear mounts to the back of my clutch. This is a 7.25 unit and all this weighs around 13 pounds complete. I have a low ground clearance bellhousing so I can drop all this down (~3 inches lower) to the point where the transmission case is the low point. A fried has run the 5.5 clutch on an EP car and moved to a 4.75 unit. The downside of all that is you have to run the stock size ring gear. It is pretty cool hearing the motor rev like a superbike. The wheels were Diamond and Aero mini-stock wheels. They are a lighter weight steel wheel. They aren't very strong and are designed to fold up if hit too hard. They are one step above junk really. I only went this route as I was unsure about what diameter I would want to run. Most of the GT tires were 16s. At the time there was a glut of the 13 FA tires on the used market so I went this route being cheap. There was more laptime to find with a better wheel/tire combo. The Hoosier's at the time use a really light Kevlar belt construction. The sidewalls were very flimsy and made using a manual changer a breeze. The GY FA tires were more of a true radial and had steel belts and substantial sidewalls. They weighed more and were definitely faster. They ended development on these and for a long time they were not available. Avon seems to be the only valid player for the bias ply slicks. I think Hoosier still makes a semi-redial tire but I doubt it's using their latest tire technology. That seems to mostly happen in 17s and 18s. I'd never run 13s on a track. While they are light you're not going to see huge gains from this. The larger tires have a smaller tread to road approach angle and this seems key to having better grip. Assuming everything else is the same. I think for EP you're going to be limited to the cantilevered slicks unless they rules have been relaxed. At the time a new set were about $1200 new. I bought used for $50 to $80 a tire depending on how good they were.
  20. For hillclimbs my car weighed 1850 with 5 gallons of fuel in 10 gallon cell. Car had a basic fire system and extensive cage (12+ points). The shell was an early 240 with nothing in it that wasn't required by the rules. It came from Montana and had been stolen and set on fire. Custom fiberglass doors and stock hinges (heavy), one piece FG front end (JC Whitney), and the rear hatch was a FG skin bonded into the car (total pain in the butt). All glass (windshield and hatch) were eighth inch Lexan. Engine was an old EP motor with the weirdest cam I have ever seen. Engine was equipped with dual modified SU carbs, a Stahl style header, and a short exhaust that ended just behind the driver (yes it sucked). Engine was a 2.8 all balanced with a 6 pound flywheel and stock type clutch and connected to 4-speed running a stock style driveshaft. This hooked up to a R200 LSD using stock style half-shafts. The car had a run-flat electrical system after my alternator sheared off at a hillclimb. I ended up using the battery from my trailer's winch and that was a very heavy (~60 pounds) marine deep-cycle optima. It was setup so I could quickly remove it and stick it back on the winch. A lot of people have told me that it is impossible to be that light. Where the magic was (not much) in this car was the wheels, tires, and brakes. Tires were from a Formula Atlantic and Kevlar belted, and had 13x10 wheels up front and 13x12 in the back. The brakes were 10.325 vented front rotors with Wildwood 4-piston dynalites in the front and 10.25 rear rotor with 2-piston dynalite calipers. Just changing to GY tires would add almost 40 pounds to the weight (steel belts versus Kevlar). But they GY tires were faster by almost a second on a 46-second lap of the local track. Few people pay close attention to what tire/wheel/brake weight adds to a car and it can really add up. I never set out to try and build a super-light car and figured it was in the 2 to 2.2K that most of these cars were. So I was rather shocked when we weighed it a buddies who had scales. Getting this car into the 1700s would have been possible with normal parts that are available now. But it would have been expensive to go much beyond that. My easiest area of weight loss would have 7.25 dual disc rally clutch and a lithium battery. Those two items alone would have allowed me to save about 50 pounds of weight. The other easy thing to do would have been to remount the cell so the sump was at the back and could run a gallon or two of gas instead of needing to be almost full. From there it gets really expensive really quickly to shed weight. Carbon parts, lighter versions of everything, etc. I'm sorry but that Porsche in the video seems scary, especially looking at the seats.
  21. In response to the Coleman rack I'll add that they are heavy, need to be greased often, rely on small friction surfaces to keep play down, and if you're using hydraulic steering the servo lacks feel. I have seen a bunch of them with bent racks that are often felt as a stickiness in the steering. I got two of them used and had to do a bunch of press work to get them straight. One was listed as bent so I knew that but was surprised that the "good" one also had a smaller bend in the rack housing. Perhaps Coleman has fixed all this and they are somewhat decent these days. I think they are great for dirt cars but I'd prefer one that has proper seals on the rack and had a better system to take up any play between the rack and housing. Cary
  22. Those Coleman racks are not very nice. They are a cheap dirt car setup meant for serious abuse. Do yourself a favor and buy a Woodward steering rack. They will custom build to your specs or you can use one of many pre-built setups. If you're not using electric power steering their servo allows you to change the force level of the assist but doesn't have any production car damping. Jon went this route on his car. Awesome news on the Bosch motorsports ABS. Totally jealous of that purchase.
  23. I've seen some Porsche cup cars that use a booster and a dual master bracket that bolts to it. John Coffey used to sell a setup like this years ago but I seem to recall that he deleted the booster. The downside to this is it takes up additional space in the engine bay. For my street car I'm looking at using the Bosch i-booster, which uses an electric motor rather a vacuum assisted booster. Here's a video from Bosch, These are used on Teslas, which is where I first saw them. The good news is they are on many new cars and fairly cheap on ebay. And don't worry about sensors as this will run in limp home mode and act like normal vacuum assisted brakes. The good news is these come on a lot of cars that have cheaper parts then a Tesla (Honda, Toyota, etc.) In this video jump to it shows the wiring setup and some cheaper alternatives, Hope this helps, Cary
  24. Have you looked at other ratios for the 8.8 that are not mustangs? "2.47 is 83-86 f150 and 2.26 is 79-81 ford Lincoln mercury passenger cars." I have not verified this but did see what looked like 2.47 gears for sale on a few sites.
  25. How is pulling a transmission with that setup? I know that may seem like a stupid comment but I also like to think about how hard it is to do basic maintenance items and changing the transmission clutch and pulling the motor are on my list. Cary
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