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tube80z

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Everything posted by tube80z

  1. I just posted this to our admin forum. I think it will take intervention from SuperDan to fix. I also asked if there was a way to link old/new accounts for those of you that had to create new ones. Sorry for the inconvenience this is causing all of you. Almost all of my "admin" time is pruning spam from the threads hoping to keep the information ratio up. best, Cary
  2. And don't forget the custom mufflers or battery holds on each side of the cell that make a wall just like a diffuser. I'd personally 3D print or buy a faux batter top or send some fake wiring to it so that it looks legit. Maybe one could be a fuel cooler? Just spitballing ideas to make the cell closer to a diffuser.
  3. Make the fuel cell a diffuser. You can install it so that it's tipped toward the front. Or keep the cell you have and build a box that holds the pumps and lines. I've seen a few local GT-1 cars that had a setup very close to this. Definitely a grey area that may be called out.
  4. I think you should at least invest in a GoPro that can provide data and use the RaceTechnology software (https://www.race-technology.com/us/gopro) if the budget allows. Capturing data with video will help make you a better driver far more quickly than without. It also would be useful if you wanted to use a virtual coach. There are a lot of people doing this now and from what I've seen it can be super helpful. I also can't stress enough how important it is to have a racing notebook. You can use this to keep all your setup sheets, run sheets, etc. together, and plan out what setu
  5. It's internally regulated and physically smaller, in case that's of any help.
  6. My column is as Clark described, 3/4 DOM tubing held by separate rod ends (specially sized for 3/4 tube) and then I used the Woodward weld in splines and their u-joints for the weld in splines and a special Woodward u-joint for the rack. For the collapsing piece I used a Woodward part inside the car near the steering wheel. It has 5 to 7 inches of telescoping as I recall. My plan was to make a trick system that allowed you to pull a lever and move the steering wheel up and almost to the windshield rather than removing the wheel. It was an idea I had thought for driver changes watching frie
  7. Look for a Kubota tractor alternator. Here's a link https://www.amazon.com/Alternator-100211-1670-16231-24011-16241-64010-16241-64011/dp/B00S6MW70A/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=kubota+alternator&qid=1628200900&sr=8-5 Cary
  8. I've done that in the past. I can tell you that going forward I'm not for the simple reason is you need to lug around another battery to hook to the car before and after runs. And forgetting to turn something off really screws up your day. I made a quick connect on the side of the car where I would drive off and the base battery connection would pull out. While that worked it left a battery hanging around where I was. Not a big deal if you have friends that will move it but if you're a one man show someplace that might be problematic. I like AIM products but hate the
  9. You need about 20 heaters added to your rig for realism of the cockpit
  10. You can heat them with a torch until they fall apart and remove some of the top ring. You can get about an inch doing this. Then you have to modify the metal body of the isolator but cutting the cup in various sections so you can fold it back over the shortened rubber isolator and then tack weld the folds. This was very common before the widespread adoption of camber plates. For a street car it's nice as you get some lowering but also it tightens the strut top so in cornering you don't lose as much camber. Think of it as halfway between stock and camber plates.
  11. Awesome job on the exhaust, well awesome job all around! Those headers were pretty common on all the tubeframe cars running hear in the northwest. They get very hot in the car so you'll want a lot of shielding. You might be able to vent some air from the cowl into the fabbed transmission tunnel to help cool it down.
  12. What are you looking for in this book? I have and have only went through it one time and now another. The author seems to either be an academic or someone who has no real experience with racing cars. Almost all the examples are trivial to explain some vehicle dynamics concept with a nice easy to solve formula. I think if you're totally new to FSAE this may be okay as a starter but even then I have a lot of reservations. The author often throws out some rule of thumb or says this would make a nice starting point. In FSAE you better have the knowledge of why and not say rule o
  13. They are worth the 30% just for the CAD models of all the hardware they sell. Another company I've been very happy with is MSC. While I haven't bought anything in the last couple of years they always seemed to have it in stock and shipped it very quickly
  14. I think one thing you have to temper the don't use braided line for all the brakes is probably based on hose that was available 30 to 40 years ago. Someone respected said it and then it was passed down as lore. I think you have proved modern lines are fine and it's really up to the owner in what they want to run. The one area where a single master cylinder can help is when they use fast fill. That's where they use a stepped piston to move a lot of fluid initially and then it steps down so you have even force between the axles. I don't know if fast fill is the right term but tha
  15. The flow by the time it gets to the back of the car is a total mess. If you want to extract a better option would be to create a vent behind the spoiler and wing to help extract any high pressure air. Ideally your duct would be on top of the tire somewhat forward of centerline. This is where you'll see many of the fender louvers on race cars. This could all be done and contained in a duct that can be bonded into the inner fender. I'd run some pressure taps to see where the high pressure is and if the differential is enough either for the side exit to work or a rear exit. You don't need to
  16. Makes perfect sense to me. If they haven't been built maybe something to look at. Cary
  17. One thing I add to these are safety washers on the outside of the rod ends on the strut. In case you need a link here you go, https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Washer-Prevent-Twelve-Through/dp/B07RB7RWMB. I think if you search around you can get a better price but it's been years since I've bought any. Cary
  18. For the lower mount you can probably save more weight by doing away with the bolt that goes all the way through and rotate those mounts 90 degrees and it can be a double shear mount with two smaller bolts. I know that's not much weight but every little bit helps. And ideally use a toe-link rear arm design. Just a thought.
  19. I'll take a moment to reply to the tone of this comment. On HybridZ we (admins) are not suppressing feedback about vendors. What we are doing is trying to make sure a thread stays on topic so that future users will be able to use search and find good quality content that is helpful and relevant to their search. Ideally the original thread should have stayed on topic and a new thread started about vendor feedback. A link could be left in the technical thread and both discussions could happen and be more likely to be found be search in the future. Hope that helps, Cary
  20. I have locked this topic as it has strayed far from the original post. I will leave this up and if there are relevant replies that address the actual topic I will approve. I think there is enough good information to leave it rather than sending it to the shed.
  21. I guess one question is how low RPM do you plan to drive? When racing I'd think most of the time you'd be above 2500-3500 on the low end and a light flywheel will be helpful.
  22. I used to street drive a 10 pound flywheel with no problems. I personally think it has a lot to do with you set the bite point where the clutch hooks up and this can vary widely between pressure plates. That requires some fiddling between master and slave cylinder pushrod lengths. This isn't so much a problem for the inline 6 because they make decent torque off the line. It also depends on clutch disc material and if it has a sprung clutch hub.
  23. They do. But I've seen this interpreted different from time to time. My car has a separate metal box over the cell and the lines where they are in the cabin. I got busted at a hillclimb (GCR rules) that I didn't have metal over my fuel lines (braided hose didn't count) so I did what any normal person would in the middle of nowhere. I built a cover using aluminum foil and riveted it to the floor here and there. Technically it was a metal cover. Rules were changed after that to be more specific.
  24. Congrats on the first drive. You have an amazing project. I've helped a number of friends get theirs running but yet to have my own so I'm more than a little envious. Cary
  25. This is done time-to-time on various suspension bits, like a-arms. The one problem is that any bending will cause bind in a setup like this. So while it may have really low static friction when you put lateral and longitudinal loads into the bushing/bearing. Anyone who used the old Delrin/Al replacements up put on caster or toe in the rear would see that it often lead to wear patterns on the bushings. While the stock rubber bushings may not be ideal for our cars the poly versions are often upgrades. The downside is that unless you take very good care of them they'll lead to sti
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