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ComicArtist

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ComicArtist last won the day on December 7 2013

ComicArtist had the most liked content!

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About ComicArtist

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    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3370936

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    Oklahoma City, OK
  1. What're you guys running? Don't know if this should be here or in the V8 section, but I'll give it a shot. I'm running the 5.3L cast iron block, so it's considerably heavier than a regular LS1. It's a daily also, so I'm wanting something comfortable enough to enjoy driving a lot but not so soft that I get a ton of roll during spirited driving, if that makes sense. Think a 250/200 setup would be good enough to handle the additional weight from the motor?
  2. ComicArtist

    L28 getting horrible gas mileage.

    Makes sense. Thank you very much.
  3. ComicArtist

    L28 getting horrible gas mileage.

    So it basically sends the signal to the ECU which maps how much fuel to spray? As opposed to the thermotime switch which opens the CSV?
  4. ComicArtist

    L28 getting horrible gas mileage.

    I have three sensors on my thermostat housing. One is the single wire sensor for the temp gauge, one is the thermotime switch for the cold start valve, which I don't have so it's useless. WHAT IS THE THIRD? I'd have to assume this is the bad one, it's a two wire plug and it's on the drivers side of the housing. When I unplug it the car dies immidiately and it won't start.
  5. ComicArtist

    L28 getting horrible gas mileage.

    I don't have the cold start valve any more, I'm running the TPS from a KA24 throttle body and have never had problems with it before, but it's funny you mention the coolant temp sensor unit. It came unplugged when I was driving the other day and flooded the car instantly, it took a minute to figure it out but ever since I plugged it back up it's been getting horrible mileage.
  6. I've exhausted all my ideas as to why my L28 is getting such shitty mileage. The only thing I haven't done is have the injectors flow checked to see if they're dumping too much fuel. It's basically a stock motor, with a Pallnet fuel rail, stock injectors, an Aeromotive A1000 fpr, idling fuel pressure is set to 28 and gets to about 33-34 under throttle. Besides basic mods like EGR delete, shaved N42 intake manifold, straight pipe exhaust, ect, the motor is all stock. As to how bad of mileage it's getting, it took $15 bucks to make 36 mile round trip last night, which comes out to about 7mpg. Any ideas? The car seems to run fine, it's not bogging from being rich or anything.
  7. Some dude took some cool pictures at CCM 15x10 all the way around, -38 and -25 205/50 Falkens Parts Shop Max competition coilovers Techno Toy Tuning camber plates Techno Toy Tuning rear LCA's
  8. ComicArtist

    Post pics of your z's here!!

    Some dude took some cool pictures at CCM
  9. ComicArtist

    S12w calipers

    Got em, lock it up
  10. ComicArtist

    S12w calipers

    Need a pair of calipers for vented rotors. Cash in hand, willing to pay shipping. Working condition preferably, you can get them on RockAuto for about $70 per caliper, but I'd rather buy on here and support Z members. Thank you! Text at 918-348-2921. Need them ASAP
  11. ComicArtist

    Post pics of your z's here!!

  12. ComicArtist

    Rear brake caliper bolt size

    I'm using the brackets from a Maxima/810 wagon, which utilizes the smaller brake calipers off the 79-81 zx. I'm talking about the two bolts that actually hold the caliper to the bracket. tamo3, thank you, that's the bolt size I was using but it just seemed to be not threading in right, I didn't want to tighten them down too much and risk stripping out the brackets because they're kind of hard to come by haha. Guess there's just paint in the threads or something
  13. Just finishing up my Maxima/280zx rear disk swap and I'm having trouble with the bolt holding the caliper to the bracket. Is it some special size or something? It feels like its cross threading but it appears to be right.
  14. I couldn't quite tell from the photos, but it looks to me as if there's enough metal left on the original strut tower to be able to reuse the original plates. Just very carefully cut through the welds to get the plate out without removing as much as possible of the strut tower and the camber plate. It looks like someone who really knows what they're doing could clean the area up and still salvage what's left of the job.
  15. Holy shit and I thought mine looked bad. I did this a over a year ago and it held up to daily driving on the streets, but I just cut all of them out and am having them professionally re-welded in. They should look like this:
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