madkaw

Well I ran 3/8” supply in stock location with engine and trans installed . Bitch? Yes! i used the fuel tank vent line for return - it’s big enough

A lot of early Z’s had holes under the battery tray for A/C , that’s what I used . I also used the choke cable hole . I used the choke hole for sensor wiring ONLY . I fed all power and grounds under the battery. With MS there was two harnesses and almost 80 wires I think , but you don’t use all of them - more than likely - so I condensed inside the car and fed only necessary wires thru the firewall.

Well the trigger wire on the MS3x harness was already shielded . The problem is that I DO WANT to run my IAC wires parallel for packaging reasons . I might be able to minimize this , but the most direct route is with my sensor bundle .Theres a local electronics store down the street ( lucky me), so I might see if they have some shielding

I bought a used MILLER Syncrowave 210. Its above your budget , but I found it used for almost half retail with only a few hours on it. I have little tig experience , but this machine makes it easy . With inverter science it makes it small and I can do 110 or 220. Spool gun works better than I could have expected . Makes the pain of selling my Mikunis for a welder easier to swallow

Well on to IAC . Car is running fantastic but it's starting to turn cold and start ups might need a little assist. I am going with the 4 wire IAC from the Jeep 4.0 DIY Tune makes a block for mounting the IAC valve . New Borg Warner selonoid is about 45$ and pigtail is 18$ at your local Oreillys . So far - besides pulling wires- the hardest part was figuring out a mounting bracket and a place to mount . Didn't want to drill holes and it has to somewhere to make running vacuum lines handy . Plus this hunk of aluminum is big! Right now my question that bugs me is whether running these wires close to my sensor wiring is going to cause noise. It sure would be handy to run the wires there, but so far noise has not been an issue and I want it to stay that way.

Like said- guidelines . I would stay fat in key areas if heavier loading and go lean as you want cruising . I feel comfortable with 15 at cruise and 13:1 at WOT . Timing might be where the tuning might be critical or more critical than the fuel. I can post up my tune when I get on my laptop , but I'm pretty aggressive on my semi closed e88 head . I've had no detonation issues so far.

Sounds like a good TEAM! I can vouch for Richards work . Richard is a great tutor to help you get over the learning curve with MS. So if you guys have ever considered switching to MS - this is a good time and team to do it with!

I think your right Wheee, cut out like that will allow the tabs to lay flat, not sure what he is referring too. There's is no rea weight on the nose of the diff . i did mine like yours as a sandwich . I still get a thud occasionally so I must have something else going on. I also ran my diff just hanging from the RT mount without issue

Just let the VEAL do its thing and don't worry about the generator for now. Run the VEAL and if doesn't look to crazy then save it

I would take out the whole harness with the engine to sell as a package . You only need the hot ignition lead for the coil .

Put some fuel to it ! I don't see where you got shit for AE -its flat lined . Check out mine for a NA . Can't stop fucking with it.msq

Just go as sensitive as you can without have a constant enrichment on. Then start bumping up the percentage of the fuel shot. MS website had a good article about tuning accel enrichment here lately.

From memory - don't think this is the same valve arrangement

Care to share what pistons are from ? Or were these custom made? Deck height?