madkaw

So I took my Z to C&C -150 mile round trip. Engine ran strong but not right. Afrs were off between the banks. Thought I had a sync issue but I believe I have an injector issue. One plug looked rich and that was the bank running rich. #4 valve clearance checked and compression test is good. I've swapped injectors around to see if it follows. Weird thing is the AFR,s smooth out under more load-its worse under light throttle. It seems more than what a small butterfly sync issue , but maybe not . Used my new airbox also. It does quiet down the stacks. Speaking of stacks can someone buy me some TTT horns ? lol My 50's look to small in the box

Back to synchronizing itbs . #4 reads less than #3 port . Bleeder screws do nothing on any ITB - are they just there for looks ? No blockage I can see anywhere . I can pull the needle completely out and it does nothing to change air flow . I thought previously it was #3 was hanging on the linkage but that turned out to not be the issue . If I got any adjustment out of the bleeder screws I think I could get it dead nuts . I’m at a loss . Been searching on line but with no luck . Maybe cheap Chinese stuff .

So after much searching and an upgrade to 1.6 firmware I was able to control these fans very well . They must have some built in controller that can decipher the low PW signal from MS . Testing at 87hz -which is what MS3 offers - they worked smoothly with no humming or any strange behavior . My GOD they move some air . Still wish I knew how much CFM they really are . The 1.6 firmware allows for a low/partial speed and full speed . Haven’t tried any AC controls since I don’t have AC yet .

These are pullers and I will have them set up to come on with AC . Megasquirt 3X just came out with firmware to control with PW . I think the only option is fans at full speed with AC . I have a buddy that said he can make a controller that will do a better job . I have no idea what CFM these fans are except they are 300 watts and they are SPAL fans OEM

While waiting for my stacks to get printed I jumped on this other project . I ordered AC but my cooling system wasn’t up for the task. My 15” Mishimoto with no should struggles to keep up in traffic . Watched a couple of YouTube videos and decided to step up to some brushless fans from a Chevy Volt . I went with them because they look like they would fit the radiator . It’s TIGHT -even after carving on it for a day . It’s been a learning curve on how I was going to power and control them . Hope this works !

Well while the z was in the back garage I pulled the exhaust off . I had tried something that I won’t do again but I used a square port gasket ( Nissan ) on my mn47 head with my square port header . I was getting some small leaks when I pressurized the exhaust during leak checks . I went back with the gasket to match the head which worked fine before . Also stared at the ITBS for a long time trying to figure out why #3 was sucking more air . As you can see in the pics the linkage was digging into the side of the ITB . Shining a light into the ports before hand did seem to show 3 open a hair more . It was such a small difference I can’t swear I did anything , but I’m betting it’s enough . I ended up just filing the tab on the linkage down . I also figured a way to run my coolant bypass on #6 . I’ll run it under my ITBS on top of the heat shield . Might also try again to run air for a remote IAC . It’s actually getting too busy under the ITBS . Also on the to do list is to find some different cooling fans . I want to run brushless for the versatility and power since I want to install AC . AC is ordered from AC solutions but that’s a month out at least . Cold air box got glued tonight . 75mm Stacks are getting printed out and I’m getting close to finalizing this long project !

Well much rain is forecasted so I’m taking her off the road to attend to issues as in exhaust leak somewhere and # 3 port pulling more air than the others . Of course the only way to see the butterfly in the ITB is to remove it . I think the exhaust leak is at the header flange so that’s a remove project - ugh . I also think I might have pulled off my air box scheme . Taking me a while to get better at forming the plexiglass but the new buck is spot on for the most part . Hopefully I get all these issues resolved during the downtime . The engine is really running good but I’m hoping longer stacks will bring me into the sweet spot . A friend is printing out the 75mm stacks and I’ll probably also do a set of 90’mm . I think I have plenty of room to fit 90’s without impeding flow around them .

Okay so the two tables for VE has given my some more fidelity with the tune . Can’t seem to pull off the two timing tables with AlphaN. Cant figure a way to include or delete a MAP sensor that doesn’t screw with the tune badly. I think with MS you have to use ITB mode which I thought took more expertise and data logs than I have . Runs good with SD running the timing , but I’d like more refinement. Still working on my air box and a buddy is printing me Velocity stacks to try . Also trying to put AC in the car ! I think the IAC idea might be scrapped for timing correction IAC .

I would be completely satisfied with an NA with those CFM numbers !!

Latest updates are more tuning . I’ve now figured out have to get 2 x16 tables for VE and timing . I’ve also converted AFR so now I’m total Alpha male - lol. I haven’t driven since converting timing to Alpha N so that will take some time and knock ears . Weather has been so hot I haven’t driven the car in days . I also still have an issue with one bank O2 sensor . I must have a small leak somewhere that hard to find - maybe underside the header flange . I’ll have to try a smoke test to try and find it . Spark plugs all looked the same though my reading is wacky on 4-6 cylinders . So far mpg has been decent though that isn’t much of a consideration right now .

The thing runs so good I can’t believe they aren’t very closely synced . First time doing ITBS so don’t know what to expect . I think they have been very good . Alpha N is a bit of a learning curve . I think I figured out I how to get 32 table for VE - but it runs well with 16 . I have a good MAP signal and I can see why some would use or try MAP density . I have a 3/4” log and soon it will be 1” . I will try it sometime just to prove to me - ha .

The synchronizer reading will be 5 on the first carb and 7 on the other two . Not sure how much off that really is . If I try and adjust the idle screw on the first ITB , that moves the other two based on how the linkages are overlapped .

I guess I don’t know how that’s done and what it does . I run cable that moves first ITB that moves the rest . The first ITB needs more air but there’s no way I can see to adjust its linkage without moving the others . I hooked up the cable and this engine started and idled great - so no real complaints !

I don’t need much and it’s just on the first ITB. Maybe really have to crank out the bleeder to get anything out of it ?

Did you have to use the air bleeds to balance ports ? I tried opening one up and didn’t get any response in the air .