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scott last won the day on January 17 2014

scott had the most liked content!

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About scott

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 10/27/50

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    Beaverton, Oregon
  1. Air Dam Tire clearance

    I have that air dam on my 73 and I used a large metal file and easily removed material. I was also able to bevel the edge of air dam inward for more clearance. The file was easy to control the amount taken off. I did this with tires mounted and car sitting on ground and the air dam was already painted...no problem
  2. Lets see the stance on your Z pictures

    Here's my 240 with T3 coilovers and Konis
  3. Z Exhaust pics!!

    Two 2.25" exhaust merged into single 3" with 3" Turbo Muffler
  4. Nigel, thanks!!!! The link has the exact parts I'm trying to find. Heavy85, I agree. I am checking suspension travel and steering turning range. Looks like I have enough brake line. Thanks for the input.
  5. I would like to attach my stainless flex front brake lines directly to my calipers. Both the calipers and the flex line have M10 x 1.0 female threads. Normally there is a small section of hard line that connects to the caliper then to the flex line. The joint between the flex line and the hard line is held in place with a bracket on the strut. On my coil overs I do not have the bracket and so would like to attach the flex line directly to the caliper. Ideally, I would like to find a M10 x1.0 male to M10 x 1.0 male adapter to directly connect the flex line. Does anyone know where to find one? What have you done to connect flex line directly to the caliper?
  6. Z braking distances

    Because there are several factors beside the brake components themselves that affect braking distance, setting up a test with one car and running tests with various brake configurations could separate out some of the variables. The test car could have a base configuration (weight and weight distribution) and set up with wheels (that can fit various brake components) and good tires (so that limits of some brake configurations can be evaluated). Similar brake pads could be used, but there are trade-offs (initial braking distance, fade, rotor wear. Some are better for track use and others for the street) This could be done like component evaluations done in some of the performance car magazines, like intake manifold evaluations or carburetor comparisons done on a base engine. Other factors should be evaluated like brake fade, reliability (this could be harder to evaluate), weight and cost (most are looking for a good balance of features for their braking system). I'd be interested in seeing this. I would like to see how Toyota SW12 calipers with 300ZX vented rotors compare with the stock brakes and with a Wilwood set up, etc.
  7. One of the challenges with cooling in a 240Z or 260Z is getting rid of the heat and air trapped inside the engine compartment (hood louvers or 280Z vented hoods can help). The airflow into the engine compartment creates backpressure on the fan. A fan with a 2500cfm rating is moving that air at zero back pressure. As back pressure builds, the fan airflow drops off dramatically (check out some fan curves). It takes a fan with a strong motor to keep good airflow (cfm) with backpressure created in the engine compartment, usually a fan with 20+ amps. The Taurus fans can pull around 35 amps. I am experiencing a similar problem on my two fan set-up. The fans aren't very strong and don't move enough air on hot days in stop and go traffic (they look good though). I don't have a vented hood, so the engine compartment builds some backpressure and traps heat. It is in traffic, traveling at low speed that the fans get the most workout. At highway speeds, the air is being rammed through the radiator, so cooling system capacity is now the important factor. My little fans were rated at around 8 amps, so they are not strong enough. I am now looking for more powerful fans.
  8. 2013 CV Shaft Conversion Options

    Checkered Flag Racing has adapters for the 280ZXT axles and also for the Z31 axles http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html
  9. I had to trim mine after it was painted, but by using a file on the urethane and chamfering it inward, it did not show or chip the paint. I am running some XXR521 which are +20 offset, but I use some spacers (19mm in front and 11mm in rear) to space wheels and tires (225 50 16 yokohama) for best clearance.
  10. 415DZ, I have a Xenon front spoiler on my 240Z with 225 50 16 tires and 16 x 8 wheels with a +1mm offset. The car is lowered about 1.5". I had to trim the inner flange where the air dam bolts to the fender. I had to grind back the edge on the air dam and flange about 45 degrees from the wheel opening. I did this while the air dam was installed. I also used a file to grind away a small amount of the air dam bottom edge at the wheel opening for more clearance (Chamfering the edge inward). This is easy to do even after the air dam and wheels and tires are installed.
  11. I made my own strut bar and braces. They can be made to fit around single or dual carburetor configurations. I had to also clear the distributor because I have a ford engine. The bars are made removable for access to engine if it ever becomes necessary to remove the engine.
  12. I have XXR 521 wheels that are 16 x 8 and have a +20mm offset. I am using 225-50-16 Yokohama tires. I had some billet wheel spacers made that are 19mm thick on the front and 11mm thick on the back. This gives an effective +1 offset on the front and a +9mm offset on the back. I also used longer ARP wheel studs. I am running stock struts with Eibach progressive springs. Everything just fits and does not rub. I had to take a file and remove about 1/16"-1/8" of the inner rear wheel arch flange (only on top section). It was very easy to do.
  13. For those of use with stock struts and insulators on a lowered 240Z, the only practical way to correct and gain more negative camber seems to be lengthening the LCAs. A small gain can be made at the top of the strut, but this is limited to about ¼†or about ½ degree. More gain can be obtained with adjustable LCAs, but the limitation here is the amount of adjustment on the tie rod ends of the steering rack. Now to the point, I have read that 280ZX tie rod ends, which are ¾†longer, can be used on the 240Z steering rack. The 280ZX rod ends are both right hand thread. The 240Z uses right hand and left hand threads. So to use the 280ZX rod ends, the left hand threaded rod on the rack could be replaced with a right hand threaded rod so that both sides have right hand threads and can now fit the 280ZX rod ends. Has anyone done this swap? Is it possible?
  14. I fabricated some parts that enabled me to bolt on frame and mount reinforcement for a larger front anti-roll bar on my 240Z. I used some 1/8" steel plate that I bent into a U-Channel to fit around the frame rails, 8mm x 100mm Grade 10.9 bolts and lock nuts and some 1/16" wall steel tubing to fit into frame and prevent frame from crushing when torquing down on bolts. While I was installing this, I added some aluminum spacers between the anti-roll bar mount bracket and the bottom of the U-Channel to space the bar down slightly and give me more clearance to my lower radiator hose. Below are some sketches and pictures of the parts and installation.
  15. RT Diff Mount install question

    If you want to keep the differential at the stock angle, you should reduce the height of the polyurethane mount. One way to reduce the height is to grind down center part of the mount (a kind of half round notch) so that the mount fits down over the rounded portion of the differential nose. Check the angle of the differential after installing it with the mount and RT bracket and compare to angle of transmission tail shaft. They should be within about 1 degree of each other. You can get a simple angle measuring tool that has a magnet built into it so it can easily attach it to the drive shaft flange on differential and on tailshaft of transmission to measure angles. If the drive shaft u-joints are not at the same angle, you can have a vibration, usually more noticeable at higher speed. I have had this happen. No noise, but the vibration shakes car at speed and it is annoying. It's eventually hard on the u-joints and can be hard on transmission tailshaft seal because it causes the drive shaft to wobble. It's not too hard to grind down the polyurethane mount. I was able to do it with some simple hand tools (hacksaw, files, rasps). Once I got the angles matched, the vibration went away.