74_5.0L_Z

I am using a harness from a 1993 5.0L mustang on my 1989 5.0L engine(the 1989 harness was damaged while trying to extract it from the twisted wreckage of the donor car). I have had no problems. The later harness is the same as the 1989 except for some of the relays. Dan

The factory gauges have a variable resistor (the dimmer switch) in their path to ground. If you didn't use the ground attachments from the factory gauges then the dimmer switch will not affect the gauges. Good Luck, Dan

I am using the same rims front and back 15x8 w/5 in backspacing. I have 245/50/15 on back and 225/50/15 on front. I have coil-overs on all four corners. (10 in 200# on back and 12 in 175# on front. The 245/50/15 will fit on the front( I wasn't sure when I ordered tires so I got 225s). I still have OEM rubber isolators above springs. This is not a problem on back but on the front I only have ~2 inches of shhock travel. I plan to get camber plates for the front. What it boils to is get 1? x 8 rims with a 5 to 5.5 in backspacing.

I have 245/50/15 Dunlop SP8000s mounted on Centerline 15x8 inch rims with a 5 inch backspacing. I am running the coil-overs. The tires barely fit within the stock rear wheelwells. I have less than 1/8" clearance on the inside between the weld-on spring perch and tire. If the spring perch was relocated above the tire (8 inch 350 lb/in springs) ,and wheels with 5.5 inches of backspacing were used then maybe the 255 might fit. Good Luck, Dan

The late model 5.0 mustang pan will work if the engine is in the right position. My engine is placed such that the front sump is just behind the crossmember. I did have to relocate the front sump drain plug to the bottom instead of the front of the sump. I have about 1/8" clearance between the pan and the crossmember. I also have about 1/8" clearance between the upper intake and the hood latch.

The Tilton set-up that I referred to doesn't use a slave cylinder. A hydraulic throw-out bearing uses a piston built-in to the bearing to actuate the clutch. With this set-up, there is no fork. A hydraulic line goes to the bearing from the master cylinder. As for the wiring harness, I used the stock harness. It essentially stands alone. Just mount the relays, supply power and ground. I also used the Ford starter relay. I only used the engine harness, and the extension that goes to the HEGOs, and VSS. If you don't have the HEGO's then buy the Ford Motorsport relay kit that contains them. It includes a new fuel pump relay, WAC relay, ECU power relay, TAB, TAD, 2 HEGOs, and EVR valve. If these terms are not familiar, then get the EEC-IV book by Charles Probst. It was one of the most valuable tools for understanding how this system works. The book also comes with great wiring diagrams. Be sure to use a 1991-1993 starter. They use a factory mini-starter. The earlier starter(1989) is much larger, and interfered with my headers (Dynomax block-huggers). Good Luck, Dan

Regarding the pedals, keep the stock ones. The Tilton master cylinder is a direst bolt on (just change or modify the clevis). For the gas pedal I calculated the mechanical advantage ratio of the stock mustang pedal, then I cut the top of the datsun pedal to achieve same ratio. I then hammered top of datsun pedal flat to approximate 1/8" and drilled a hole to accept ford throttle cable. Sounds cheap but has worked perfectly for 9 months. Another option would be to get an aftermarket throttle cable(LOKAR). For the emmission, get rid of the air pump. Make sure that you plug the hole in the back of the head. Keep the EGR. At part throttle, the computer calculated air fuel based on a certain portion of Inert mixture, and also increses the timing. If the EGR is removed the result will be a lean mixture and possible detonation. Beside the EGR is only active at part throttle cruise, and increases gas milage and reduces emissions. I don't know what you plan to use for a fuel pump. I am using an MSD (P/N 2225) inline pump. It's rated at 43 GPH at 39 psi(more than twice the capacity of the factory 5.0 pump. It also only costs 110.00.

I have a 5.0L and 5 speed in my 1974 260. I use a Tilton hydraulic throw out bearing and clutch master cylinder. The clutch works great. Here is the post that I made last year regarding the clutch "I am using the Tilton hydraulic throw-out bearing in my 5.0 / T5 Ford powered 260Z. The pedal action is very smooth and as light as the factory Z clutch. I am using the Tilton 74-875U universal master cylinder to operate the clutch. The master cylinder has a 7/8" bore, and bolts directly to the firewall using the factory studs. The clutch disengages about 1.5 inches above the floor, but is not bothersome. I have only been driving the car for about 2 weeks but so far I really like the clutch. The part numbers for the Ford T5 setup are 61-601 for the bearing itself, and 61-612 for the adapter. The adapter replaces the input bearing retainer, and the bearing screws onto the adapter. The adapter also provides much sturdier support of the input bearing than the stock T5 unit. Finally, the Tilton master cylinder, hydraulic throw-out bearing, adapter, and all necessary hardware cost me 423.00 from J&J racing." I have used the clutch now for 9 months (70 miles/day) without any problems. Good luck, Dan

I would suspect that you have a short elsewhere in the system. To test this, disconnect the wiring to the ammeter and clock, and then disconnect the negative battery cable. Then use a VOM between the cable and negative terminal of the battery. With everything off, key off, and clock disconnected the current should be zero. If the current is not zero then you have a short. A good way to isolate the short is to remove all the fuses, and put them back in one at a time while watching the VOM. When you see current then you have found the wiring leg containing the short. Good Luck, Dan

My 260 with a bone stock 5.0 / T-5 runs 13.40 at 102.66. The engine probably has 150,000 miles, and runs flawlessly. The car is not set up as a drag racer and still gets 1.86 sec 60 ' times. Good Luck, Dan

It should fit with no problem. The main concern will be to get it far enough back and down. I have a stock EFI 5.0 and T-5 in mine. I would like to use a supercharger, and I know it will fit. Send me an e-mail address and I'll send you some pictures. Dan

Pete, You are old.

Dr. Graham, I am using the 1993 harness because the 1989 harness that came with my engine had been butchered, and I found a complete pristine 1993 harness for $50.00. I am using the 1989 computer. I installed the computer in the glove box. It fits perfectly( cut a hole in the right rear of the box for the connector). As for the speedometer, I regret to say that I have been driving for six months without. I have researched the issue though. Most speedometer shops can make a custom cable that is datsun onn one end and ford on the other. The dash is extremely light, and you would be hard pressed to make one that is lighter. I have replaced my gauges with Autometer Sport-Comp units. The 5" monster tach fits perfectly in place of the stock unit, and the 2-5/8" oil, temp, fuel gauges fit perfectly in the three center holes. Good Luck, Dan McGrath

Dr. Graham, I have installed the 5.0 mustang engine and T-5 transmission in my 74 260. The wiring for the engine, and computer is completely independent of the datsun wiring. I used the wiring harness out of a 1993 mustang. The engine and computer harness from that year is easily separable from the rest of the mustang harness. I am using the factory 260 harness for lights, etc... Make certain that you acquire the proper computer for the transmission set-up. You cannot use an auto tranny computer with a stick. Also make sure you get the harness that goes to HEGOs, and that you get all the relays (fuel pump, WAC, ...) Good Luck Dan McGrath

For my 5.0 Z I used the stock datsun fuel pump wiring. I clipped from the datsun harness and attached it to the fuel pump relay that was part of the ford wiring harness. The computer controls the pump. For a pump, I used the MSD inline EFI fuel pump. The MSD pump is inexpensive (109.00), fairly quiet, flows 43 gph @ 39psi, and has been reliable(The car has been my daily driver for 6 months.) Good Luck, Dan

How do add pictures to these posts? Dan

In my installation, the shorty headers did not work well. They turn out and back. The exhaust would have to make a sharp turn to clear the frame and fire wall. I used the dynomax block-hugger headers. They work well, but the quality is questionable. When these headers die, I'll try the Ford Motorsport block-huggers. I've seen them and the quality is good, and they look like they'll fit. The other option is to make my own long tubes. There is plenty of room but no premade set. For anyone using pre-91 engine, you'll need to convert to the later 91-93 starter. The early starter was big and heavy and interfered with the headers. The later starter is a factory mini-starter. Good Luck, Dan

The 1988 through 1990 5.0L are the most desirable. Pre 88 they were speed density, and less amenable to engine upgrades. After 1990(I think ford switched from forged pistons to hypereutectic cast pistons. I have a 1989 5.0L in mine. Dan

T-5 from 1989 5.0 stang 1st 3.35 : 1 2nd 1.99 : 1 3rd 1.44 : 1 4th 1 : 1 5th .68 : 1

I have the 5.0 and T-5 in my car. I am using the Tilton hydraulic throw-out bearing, and 7/8" universal master cylinder. The clutch is smooth and light, and so far trouble free. I have driven the car 50-75 miles per day for the last 4.5 months. I have provided details of this swap in a previous post. Do a seach under my user name to find the details(part numbers and cost). Good Luck

I am using a later model datsun radiator in my 260. I believe that it is out of a 280z. The radiator is a three core setup and is taller the the 260 radiator. The bottom tank hangs about 2 inches below the bottom of the radiator support. I have a completely stock 5.0 mustang engine in my car, and have no cooling problems. The car can idle in traffic in 95 degree weather all day long without overheating. I haven't even installed a fan shroud (yet). I'm not saying that this combination will keep higher horsepower engines cool, but it works fine with my stock 5.0.

I have a 5.0 L and T5 in my 74 260. The inertia ring of the factory 5.0 harmonic balancer sit above the rack and clears by 0.5 inches. The engine sits as low as I dared place it(the oil pan and bell housing hang about 1/2 inch below the frame and crossmember. The brackets for my motor mounts are sandwiched between the frame and the front cross-member and lower the rack 3/16". Even if I used different mounts that didn't lower the crossmenber, I would still have clearance.

I have a 1974 260z with the 5.0 and T-5 installed. I had a driveshaft made at advanced driveline in Orlando. The slip yoke is the stock ford item the adapter flange is the Neapco item used by Pete Paraska and others. The length (U-joint center to U-joint center) is 18.5 inches. With all new parts(even the tube) the price was 190.00. I have been driving the car for about 2 months now and love the 5.0L/ T5 installation.

The Tilton unit isn't self adjusting. The adjustment is set when the unit is installed. The adjustment is made by threading the hydraulic throwout bearing onto the adapter/bearing retainer and locking the bearing hydraulic assembly in place. The initial installed height is set such that there is 0.15" clearance between the fully-compressed bearing and the clutch fingers. A self-adjusting feature would be nice, but the initial set-up of the Tilton unit wasn't difficult.

Use the following formula to calculate your speedometer gears. Driven gear teeth=(Drive Gear teeth * axle ratio * tire rev per mile)/1024