74_5.0L_Z

I have a 5.0L and 5 speed in my 1974 260. I use a Tilton hydraulic throw out bearing and clutch master cylinder. The clutch works great. Here is the post that I made last year regarding the clutch "I am using the Tilton hydraulic throw-out bearing in my 5.0 / T5 Ford powered 260Z. The pedal action is very smooth and as light as the factory Z clutch. I am using the Tilton 74-875U universal master cylinder to operate the clutch. The master cylinder has a 7/8" bore, and bolts directly to the firewall using the factory studs. The clutch disengages about 1.5 inches above the floor, but is not bothersome. I have only been driving the car for about 2 weeks but so far I really like the clutch. The part numbers for the Ford T5 setup are 61-601 for the bearing itself, and 61-612 for the adapter. The adapter replaces the input bearing retainer, and the bearing screws onto the adapter. The adapter also provides much sturdier support of the input bearing than the stock T5 unit. Finally, the Tilton master cylinder, hydraulic throw-out bearing, adapter, and all necessary hardware cost me 423.00 from J&J racing." I have used the clutch now for 9 months (70 miles/day) without any problems. Good luck, Dan

I would suspect that you have a short elsewhere in the system. To test this, disconnect the wiring to the ammeter and clock, and then disconnect the negative battery cable. Then use a VOM between the cable and negative terminal of the battery. With everything off, key off, and clock disconnected the current should be zero. If the current is not zero then you have a short. A good way to isolate the short is to remove all the fuses, and put them back in one at a time while watching the VOM. When you see current then you have found the wiring leg containing the short. Good Luck, Dan

My 260 with a bone stock 5.0 / T-5 runs 13.40 at 102.66. The engine probably has 150,000 miles, and runs flawlessly. The car is not set up as a drag racer and still gets 1.86 sec 60 ' times. Good Luck, Dan

It should fit with no problem. The main concern will be to get it far enough back and down. I have a stock EFI 5.0 and T-5 in mine. I would like to use a supercharger, and I know it will fit. Send me an e-mail address and I'll send you some pictures. Dan

Pete, You are old.

Dr. Graham, I am using the 1993 harness because the 1989 harness that came with my engine had been butchered, and I found a complete pristine 1993 harness for $50.00. I am using the 1989 computer. I installed the computer in the glove box. It fits perfectly( cut a hole in the right rear of the box for the connector). As for the speedometer, I regret to say that I have been driving for six months without. I have researched the issue though. Most speedometer shops can make a custom cable that is datsun onn one end and ford on the other. The dash is extremely light, and you would be hard pressed to make one that is lighter. I have replaced my gauges with Autometer Sport-Comp units. The 5" monster tach fits perfectly in place of the stock unit, and the 2-5/8" oil, temp, fuel gauges fit perfectly in the three center holes. Good Luck, Dan McGrath

Dr. Graham, I have installed the 5.0 mustang engine and T-5 transmission in my 74 260. The wiring for the engine, and computer is completely independent of the datsun wiring. I used the wiring harness out of a 1993 mustang. The engine and computer harness from that year is easily separable from the rest of the mustang harness. I am using the factory 260 harness for lights, etc... Make certain that you acquire the proper computer for the transmission set-up. You cannot use an auto tranny computer with a stick. Also make sure you get the harness that goes to HEGOs, and that you get all the relays (fuel pump, WAC, ...) Good Luck Dan McGrath

For my 5.0 Z I used the stock datsun fuel pump wiring. I clipped from the datsun harness and attached it to the fuel pump relay that was part of the ford wiring harness. The computer controls the pump. For a pump, I used the MSD inline EFI fuel pump. The MSD pump is inexpensive (109.00), fairly quiet, flows 43 gph @ 39psi, and has been reliable(The car has been my daily driver for 6 months.) Good Luck, Dan

How do add pictures to these posts? Dan

In my installation, the shorty headers did not work well. They turn out and back. The exhaust would have to make a sharp turn to clear the frame and fire wall. I used the dynomax block-hugger headers. They work well, but the quality is questionable. When these headers die, I'll try the Ford Motorsport block-huggers. I've seen them and the quality is good, and they look like they'll fit. The other option is to make my own long tubes. There is plenty of room but no premade set. For anyone using pre-91 engine, you'll need to convert to the later 91-93 starter. The early starter was big and heavy and interfered with the headers. The later starter is a factory mini-starter. Good Luck, Dan

The 1988 through 1990 5.0L are the most desirable. Pre 88 they were speed density, and less amenable to engine upgrades. After 1990(I think ford switched from forged pistons to hypereutectic cast pistons. I have a 1989 5.0L in mine. Dan

T-5 from 1989 5.0 stang 1st 3.35 : 1 2nd 1.99 : 1 3rd 1.44 : 1 4th 1 : 1 5th .68 : 1

I have the 5.0 and T-5 in my car. I am using the Tilton hydraulic throw-out bearing, and 7/8" universal master cylinder. The clutch is smooth and light, and so far trouble free. I have driven the car 50-75 miles per day for the last 4.5 months. I have provided details of this swap in a previous post. Do a seach under my user name to find the details(part numbers and cost). Good Luck

I am using a later model datsun radiator in my 260. I believe that it is out of a 280z. The radiator is a three core setup and is taller the the 260 radiator. The bottom tank hangs about 2 inches below the bottom of the radiator support. I have a completely stock 5.0 mustang engine in my car, and have no cooling problems. The car can idle in traffic in 95 degree weather all day long without overheating. I haven't even installed a fan shroud (yet). I'm not saying that this combination will keep higher horsepower engines cool, but it works fine with my stock 5.0.

I have a 5.0 L and T5 in my 74 260. The inertia ring of the factory 5.0 harmonic balancer sit above the rack and clears by 0.5 inches. The engine sits as low as I dared place it(the oil pan and bell housing hang about 1/2 inch below the frame and crossmember. The brackets for my motor mounts are sandwiched between the frame and the front cross-member and lower the rack 3/16". Even if I used different mounts that didn't lower the crossmenber, I would still have clearance.

I have a 1974 260z with the 5.0 and T-5 installed. I had a driveshaft made at advanced driveline in Orlando. The slip yoke is the stock ford item the adapter flange is the Neapco item used by Pete Paraska and others. The length (U-joint center to U-joint center) is 18.5 inches. With all new parts(even the tube) the price was 190.00. I have been driving the car for about 2 months now and love the 5.0L/ T5 installation.

The Tilton unit isn't self adjusting. The adjustment is set when the unit is installed. The adjustment is made by threading the hydraulic throwout bearing onto the adapter/bearing retainer and locking the bearing hydraulic assembly in place. The initial installed height is set such that there is 0.15" clearance between the fully-compressed bearing and the clutch fingers. A self-adjusting feature would be nice, but the initial set-up of the Tilton unit wasn't difficult.

Use the following formula to calculate your speedometer gears. Driven gear teeth=(Drive Gear teeth * axle ratio * tire rev per mile)/1024

I am using the Tilton hydraulic throw-out bearing in my 5.0 / T5 Ford powered 260Z. The pedal action is very smooth and as light as the factory Z clutch. I am using the Tilton 74-875U universal master cylinder to operate the clutch. The master cylinder has a 7/8" bore, and bolts directly to the firewall using the factory studs. The clutch disengages about 1.5 inches above the floor, but is not bothersome. I have only been driving the car for about 2 weeks but so far I really like the clutch. The part numbers for the Ford T5 setup are 61-601 for the bearing itself, and 61-612 for the adapter. The adapter replaces the input bearing retainer, and the bearing screws onto the adapter. The adapter also provides much sturdier support of the input bearing than the stock T5 unit. Finally, the Tilton master cylinder, hydraulic throw-out bearing, adapter, and all necessary hardware cost me 423.00 from J&J racing.

After a year and a half of work, my 1974 260 is on the road. The car is powered by a 1989 5.0L mustang engine from a highway patrol vehicle. The factory fuel injection was maintained(the computer is mounted in the glovebox.) The exhaust is a dual 2.5 inch set-up with an H pipe and two 2.5 in/out 2 chamber flowmaster mufflers. The car also uses the T5 from the mustang. The differential is an R200 with 3.90 gears. The tires are Dunlop SP8000(245 50 15) mounted on centerline 15x8 wheels (5 inch backspacing.) The suspension consists of ground control 2.5 inch adjustable coil-overs with 200 lb/in springs. With this setup, the 245 50 15 tires fit in the factory wheel wells. The car is much faster than stock though probably not as ferocious as some of the cars on this site. I hope to take it to the track soon (Bithlo in Orlando.) I'll let you know what happens.

Did you change the rubber line going to the slave cylinder? If not, it is possible that the rubber line has deteriorated, and has loose particles on the inside. The loose particles can act as a check valve and prevent the clutch slave cylinder from bleeding down when then pedal is released. The residual pressure will prevent the clutch from fully engaging. ------------------

My 1974 260z has a 1989 5.0L Ford engine from a mustang police car installed. The center of the front of the crank is even with the top of the front frame rails. The front of the stock harmonic balancer is even with the front of the steering rack. The engine is centered left to right(rather than offset to the passenger side like the chevy conversions and the stock L series). The factory mounting pads were removed from the front crossmember for oil filter clearance. The engine is installed 2.5 degrees nose up. The stock hood clears the Ford EFI assembly by 1/8" (the closest point is on the passenger side above the throttle body/EGR. I will soon be posting pictures of the installation and drawings of my motor/transmission mounts. I have seen a Z with a 351W installed. The car required a hood scoop. The car also ran high 10 sec quarter mile times using an open R-200 differential. I don't know how to get in touch with this guy (don't even know his name) but I do know that the car was built by Z excellence in Jacksonville FL. Hope this helps.

Is your pump mounted low and near the tank? Electric fuel pumps push fuel well, but do not pull. Pressure losses between the pump and tank should be minimumized for the pump to work properly.

Rustbucket, I am in the process of putting a 1989 5.0L from a mustang police car into an early 1974 260Z. The engine and T5 transmission are installed. The brakes and suspension are complete. I am having a driveshaft made. The wiring is complete(I am using the factory 5.0 fuel injection). The paint is done. I have been working on the project for a year and am nearly ready to start the car. I too wanted to be different and use a nonchevy V8. This path was probably more difficult than using predesigned pieces like those available from JTR, but I think that it is worth it. Email me with questions good luck