74_5.0L_Z

I have a 5.0 L and T5 in my 74 260. The inertia ring of the factory 5.0 harmonic balancer sit above the rack and clears by 0.5 inches. The engine sits as low as I dared place it(the oil pan and bell housing hang about 1/2 inch below the frame and crossmember. The brackets for my motor mounts are sandwiched between the frame and the front cross-member and lower the rack 3/16". Even if I used different mounts that didn't lower the crossmenber, I would still have clearance.

I have a 1974 260z with the 5.0 and T-5 installed. I had a driveshaft made at advanced driveline in Orlando. The slip yoke is the stock ford item the adapter flange is the Neapco item used by Pete Paraska and others. The length (U-joint center to U-joint center) is 18.5 inches. With all new parts(even the tube) the price was 190.00. I have been driving the car for about 2 months now and love the 5.0L/ T5 installation.

The Tilton unit isn't self adjusting. The adjustment is set when the unit is installed. The adjustment is made by threading the hydraulic throwout bearing onto the adapter/bearing retainer and locking the bearing hydraulic assembly in place. The initial installed height is set such that there is 0.15" clearance between the fully-compressed bearing and the clutch fingers. A self-adjusting feature would be nice, but the initial set-up of the Tilton unit wasn't difficult.

Use the following formula to calculate your speedometer gears. Driven gear teeth=(Drive Gear teeth * axle ratio * tire rev per mile)/1024

I am using the Tilton hydraulic throw-out bearing in my 5.0 / T5 Ford powered 260Z. The pedal action is very smooth and as light as the factory Z clutch. I am using the Tilton 74-875U universal master cylinder to operate the clutch. The master cylinder has a 7/8" bore, and bolts directly to the firewall using the factory studs. The clutch disengages about 1.5 inches above the floor, but is not bothersome. I have only been driving the car for about 2 weeks but so far I really like the clutch. The part numbers for the Ford T5 setup are 61-601 for the bearing itself, and 61-612 for the adapter. The adapter replaces the input bearing retainer, and the bearing screws onto the adapter. The adapter also provides much sturdier support of the input bearing than the stock T5 unit. Finally, the Tilton master cylinder, hydraulic throw-out bearing, adapter, and all necessary hardware cost me 423.00 from J&J racing.

After a year and a half of work, my 1974 260 is on the road. The car is powered by a 1989 5.0L mustang engine from a highway patrol vehicle. The factory fuel injection was maintained(the computer is mounted in the glovebox.) The exhaust is a dual 2.5 inch set-up with an H pipe and two 2.5 in/out 2 chamber flowmaster mufflers. The car also uses the T5 from the mustang. The differential is an R200 with 3.90 gears. The tires are Dunlop SP8000(245 50 15) mounted on centerline 15x8 wheels (5 inch backspacing.) The suspension consists of ground control 2.5 inch adjustable coil-overs with 200 lb/in springs. With this setup, the 245 50 15 tires fit in the factory wheel wells. The car is much faster than stock though probably not as ferocious as some of the cars on this site. I hope to take it to the track soon (Bithlo in Orlando.) I'll let you know what happens.

Did you change the rubber line going to the slave cylinder? If not, it is possible that the rubber line has deteriorated, and has loose particles on the inside. The loose particles can act as a check valve and prevent the clutch slave cylinder from bleeding down when then pedal is released. The residual pressure will prevent the clutch from fully engaging. ------------------

My 1974 260z has a 1989 5.0L Ford engine from a mustang police car installed. The center of the front of the crank is even with the top of the front frame rails. The front of the stock harmonic balancer is even with the front of the steering rack. The engine is centered left to right(rather than offset to the passenger side like the chevy conversions and the stock L series). The factory mounting pads were removed from the front crossmember for oil filter clearance. The engine is installed 2.5 degrees nose up. The stock hood clears the Ford EFI assembly by 1/8" (the closest point is on the passenger side above the throttle body/EGR. I will soon be posting pictures of the installation and drawings of my motor/transmission mounts. I have seen a Z with a 351W installed. The car required a hood scoop. The car also ran high 10 sec quarter mile times using an open R-200 differential. I don't know how to get in touch with this guy (don't even know his name) but I do know that the car was built by Z excellence in Jacksonville FL. Hope this helps.

Is your pump mounted low and near the tank? Electric fuel pumps push fuel well, but do not pull. Pressure losses between the pump and tank should be minimumized for the pump to work properly.

Rustbucket, I am in the process of putting a 1989 5.0L from a mustang police car into an early 1974 260Z. The engine and T5 transmission are installed. The brakes and suspension are complete. I am having a driveshaft made. The wiring is complete(I am using the factory 5.0 fuel injection). The paint is done. I have been working on the project for a year and am nearly ready to start the car. I too wanted to be different and use a nonchevy V8. This path was probably more difficult than using predesigned pieces like those available from JTR, but I think that it is worth it. Email me with questions good luck