74_5.0L_Z

As a side note: use the starter fom a 91-93. The later starters are factory high torque mini-starters. The older (pre-90) starter are ~ 10 lbs heavier, and interfere with the block-hugger headers.

Gene is right about the balance differences. The old and new flywheels also have a different number of teeth on the ring gear. I just bought a new 5.0L flywheel (stock replacement). The best deal I found was at Racer Walsh ($98.00).

The 289 can really be made to rev. My best friend and I run a 1964 comet in NHRA super stock. The car weighs 3250 lbs., and has a 289. With stock rotating assembly, stock compression, and stockk Autolite 4100 carb, the car runs 11.18 @118 mph. The class allows any cam (custom .740 lift roller) and valve train (Jesel rockers and stock valves), any intake (victor Jr). The car runs 1.48 60' times with no trans brake, and goes through the traps at 8800 rpms.

The stock spring rates front and rear for the 240Z was 90 lb/in. I am autocrossing my 260 and am using 250 lb/in in the rear, and 200 lb/in on the front. This is too stiff for the street. For the street try 150 lb/in in front, and 175 lb/ in in the rear.

They usually have 2-3 day turn around from the time you order till the time the stuff gets to your door.

I use AFCO racing for all that kind of stuff(rod ends(heim joints), threaded tubing, AN fittings, etc... They have an excellent on-line catalog at www.afcoracing.com

Tom, Pardon my silly question, but have you measured the temperature with a calibrated gage. Before I switched from the stock Z gages to the autometer mechanical gages, my temperature looked high and my oil pressure low. After going to the mechanical gages, I can now put actual values to pressure and temperature. The car run between 180 and 190 all the time (185 degree thermostat), has 70 psi of oil pressure (warm on the highway). Before my stock water temp gage indicated about 3/4 scale. Good Luck, Dan

Another place to check is the expansion tank behind the passenger side rear wheel well. A bad hose will cause gas vapors or gasoline to get into the car. Those hoses are often badly rotted.

Unless you are running high compression or boost, you don't need anything better than 93 octane unleaded. I have 9.5:1 compression and run 16 degrees initial timing(36 total) without any problem. The leaded should be no problem with the injectors, but the O2 sensors won't like it. I assume you are not runnings catalytic converters.

Unlimited Fiberglass has a direct replacement(bolt on)with no cowl and no louvers. It does however have the factory hump. Reasonably priced too.

Hey Guys, There is a Supra TT powered Z on E-bay. Sweet looking car currently at $9000. It has the later engine.

The mount didn't post like I'd hoped. Email me and I'll send you a drawing.

My motor mounts are different than Alsil's but I think our engines are similarly placed. My transmission mount is similar to the one in the JTR manual. Its made 3/16" x 4" flat stock that is bent as follows: ___ ___ / / ____/ _______/ ____ The two flat sections on the ends go under the floor pan and butt against the inside of the floor supports. Each side has four bolts that go though the floor, and through a doubler plate inside the car. The two humps allow the exhaust to sit level with the floor pan. I believe they are 3" tall by 4.5" wide(at bottom). The Ford rubber tranny mount sits on the center flat section, and is centered left two right. I use a 280z 3 core radiator in my set-up. It keeps the car plenty cool. I am also using the 5.0L clutch fan driven by the motor. The Datsun radiator requires long hoses(the inlet and outlet are on the wrong sides). I deleted my power steering pump, A/C, Smog(I only drive the alternator, and water pump. I still have the 5.0L reverse rotation pump. I would switch to the forward rotation pump to simplify the belts. If you don't you will need to catch the belt with a tensioner on the driver's side of the motor. Make certain you get the smaller 5.0L starter(89 and earlier had a huge starter that won't clear the headers(91? and later use a mini starter that is much smaller and lighter). I use Dynomax blockhugger headers. Some of the others are using different brands. Whichever you decide on, I suggest using the copper header and flange gaskets. Good Luck, Dan McGrath

I took the car the Orlando Speed World last night to see how it runs with the new parts (Heads, Intake, Cam). The first pass I spun hard off the line, backed off the gas, got back into it and ran a 12.97 @ 110.04. Second run, I again spun (not as bad) and ran a 12.82 @ 110.06. Not bad considering the car is set-up for autocross and not the quarter mile. My previous best was a 13.219 @ 103.7 mph with the stock 5.0L engine. With a little traction that speed should put me around 12.5. I weighed the car while there. 2600 total minus me. 1280 on the front tires, 1320 on the rear. That's better than 50% on the rear without me in it.

Pete, Here is where mass comes in. Ftot = m * a = M* dV/dt Ftot = Fr - (1/2* rho * V^2 * Cd * A + Csr * V) = M * a where Fr is the reaction force of the road on the tires Therefore, M * dV/dt = Fr - (1/2* rho * V^2 * Cd * A + Csr * V) or dV/dt = Fr/M -(1/2* rho * V^2 * Cd * A + Csr * V)/M which in the limit that dV/dt = 0 (top speed) reduces to Fr = 1/2* rho * V^2 * Cd * A + Csr * V but Fr = (Teng * GR_t * GR_diff)/tire_dia Your torque to mass ratio determines your acceleration, but doesn't affect the top speed. The only factors that affect top speed are Cd*A, Csr, and HP. These are the relationships I use in the excel application that I sent you. Any chance of posting it.

I have played with the Z car aerodynamic numbers a little bit, and would be interested in other peoples numbers. To begin with, I wanted to get values for the product of drag coefficient and frontal area, and a number for the static rolling resistance. I use the following equation for total drag force(Fd): Fd = 1/2 * rho * V^2 * Cd * A + Csr * V also Fd = M dV/dt where M is the mass of the car. Using this equation and a plot of the 240Z coast down data(1970 Road and Track), I solved for the unknowns Cd*A , and Csr. This is what I got: Cd*A = 5.2 ft^2 Csr = 1.92 Lbf/mph Using the above numbers, and the formula P=F*V, I get 336 RWHP to go 160 mph, and 390 RWHP to go 170 mph.

One thing you should keep in mind is that the mounting for the later ZXs will be different than for the early Zs.

My swap works very well, but I made it unnecessarily complicated. If I were to do it again, I would do some things different. I would place the engine exactly where I have it, but would do my mounts differently. Therefore I haven't wrote up the install. I have describe through various posts the position, and angle of my engine, which components I used for clutch actuation, and which headers, etc... If I ever get my mounts to a point where I think they are optimal, and easily copied then I'll do a write-up.

Scottie, I would love to join you, but all I have are my autocross tires(no street tires yet). I plan to get some new wheels and tires for the street soon. Right now it is only getting driven back and forth to the autocross events.

Thanks for the feedback guys, The engine still has the stock bottom end(untouched with umpteen bazillion miles), but now has Edelbrock performer heads, Crower 15511 cam, 1.72 roller rockers, port matched Cobra intake, 24# injectors, C&L 73mm mass air, and BBK 70mm TB. It probably only makes a little over 300hp(butt dyno) but moves this 260 real fast. You guys with the 400+ motors must really have scary rides. I haven't had the car to the 1/4 since adding the heads, cam, and intake but anticipate 12.20 to 12.30 time at ~112(It ran 13.20s @104 with the stock 5.0). I autocrossed the car the day after I got it back together with the new parts. I raced over a dozen cobra replicas(factory five, ERA, ...) many mustangs, turbo 944s, and others, and got my first Fast Time of Day. On inspection after the race, I discovered that I was running with 0 timing advance.

I have centerline 15 x 8 inch wheels with a 5 in backspace. The tires are 245/50/15 Dunlop SP8000. This combination fits all the way around with stock fenders and coil-overs.

I get to go home to a UPS delivery: New parts for the car . I am getting Edelbock Aluminum Heads, Cobra Intake, 70mm throttle body, and Crower Hydraulic Roller Cam. My car is going to be so happy.

I want to get the FMS RPM extender so that I can control the red line and WOT A/F ratio.

I wanted to match the angle of the engine to the angle of the differential. I settled on 2.5 degrees because any more nose up on the enginecaused the upper intake to hit the latch support. Thd differential angle was almost 5 degrees. To make up the difference, I removed the rubber washer/spacer from above the moustache bar and cut the tube that protrudes through the bushing. The moustache bar is mounted flush against the body, and the differential angle is 2.5 degrees. The tailshaft of the transmission is almost at the same height as the pinion flange, and is 1.5 inches off center to the driver's side(the pinion flange is off center in the chassis, and the output shaft of the tranny is exactly centered in the chassis). There is a side benefit to removing the spacer above the moustache bar and raising the back of the differential: The factory retention strap across the front of the differential is drawn tight. I have only the factory rubber pinion mount, and have no trouble with it tearing. With the differential at the stock angle, there is slop between the retention strap and the differential, and the rubber tears with even the six cylinder.

Dr. Graham, I put the car on stands and leveled it as best I could. I measured the engine angle by using a magnetic based angle finder(Sears $10.95). I place the angle finder on the bottom of the starter housing, and raised the tail of the transmission to get the desired angle. I then constructed the tranny crossmember to maintain that position. Dan McGrath