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taaron

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About taaron

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    Denver, CO

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  1. taaron

    N47 Turbo Possibility

    Sorry should have added. Already running a full megasquirt 2 system (280zx turbo dist and everything).
  2. So I've been trying to decide on an engine to put into my 78 project for some time. And this week I've had a few different chances fall through. A little disheartening, but got me thinking about alternatives. I currently have a 78 with a N42 block and an N47 head. Not looking for a response to this of, buy a P90 head, I know the head I have is the "least desirable" head out there. But I already have it. I believe this means I have the dished pistons, and a compression ratio of about 8.3:1. Say I wanted to take the turbo exhaust manifold off a 280zx, ignoring the different shaped exhaust ports, could I bolt this on? It seems like 8.3 is terribly high and wouldn't be terrible for turboing in theory. Especially if I put on a 2mm metal head gasket to try and lower compression a bit further. Also, if I could do this, would running an intercooler and potentially meth allow me to run this is a little harder a little safer?
  3. taaron

    VQ35 HR Swap

    Did you ever wind up selling this?
  4. taaron

    Microsquirt

    I can vouch for Chickenman and I know many others can. Hes been super helpful, working with me being a pain in the ass and my less than ideal hardware setup
  5. taaron

    78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    Of course! We wound up going with nylon printed on its side. I'll let you know how it holds up.
  6. taaron

    78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    So to anyone that gets stuck where I did, DONT FORGET THE MICA INSULATOR ON THE BIP373. The car is running now!
  7. taaron

    78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    I've done all those things, according to the msextra manual. I put a 1k resistor in r57 because thats what I had around so that worked. 10v is my main concern because that seems to be whats holding me up. I believe spark is now the only thing holding me up. The battery is good, I had it tested at autozone this weekend, and it lives on a trickle charger. My MS2 grounds are currently on chassis (I know bad, getting corrected tonight). That chassis ground is also connected to the block in a real shit (greasy dirty) spot, didn't have time to make a longer cable last night to relocate). My battery sits in the back of the car, so it is grounded to the chassis in the back ( I can run it to the block up front if that needs to happen, however I thought the shorter run cable would be better than having an 11ft ground to the block. I'm going to get all those grounds rearranged this evening and see if that gives me 12v out of that terminal. If not I'm going to start pulling wires one at a time to see where my voltage is bleeding out.
  8. taaron

    78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    Yup did all of those things.
  9. taaron

    78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    So great news update, I think. Followed all the instructions, I now have both trigger signals and rpms showing up. New problem is, I'm for some reason just getting 10ish volts out of my relayboard at the fuel pump/coil+ position. Could this potentially be due to some bad grounding? I initially had everything grounded at the starter motor but learned thats a big No No. I moved it a bit further away but I still need to relocate it to the other side of the block, I just didn't have the terminals on me to make the cable.
  10. taaron

    78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    So I've looked at that site, and going through the VR Conditioner on there is different than on the MSExtra manual. Theres a lot more steps listed and at the same time, it calls out these proto areas that don't exist on these boards. Hardware mods – V3.57 For a V3.57, you’d have to remove a lot of parts to use the Hall / optical input, so we’ll just bring this in through the VR conditioner instead. Place the JP1 jumper in the 1-2 position. Place the J1 jumper in the 5-6 position. Put a 1K resistor in the R57 slot (Or you can use a 1K pull up in the wiring, as above.). If you want sequential coil on plug (or sequential injection with the 3.2.1 code), you’ll also need a second trigger input. Solder a 1K resistor onto a length of wire, and cover the resistor with heat shrink tubing. Connect this resistor-on-a-wire combination from JS10 to SPR1. You could also use PAD7 if you’d rather bring the input in through the DB15. Solder a 470 ohm resistor onto a length of wire and cover with heat shrink tubing. Run this resistor-on-a-wire from the 5 volt terminal in the proto area to SPR1 (or PAD7 if you used this in the preceeding step.). Connect a 0.1 uF capacitor from JS10 to SG or the proto area ground. Install the spark output of your choice. BIP373 or QuadSpark output mods are two possible choices. OEM Nissan SR20DET ignition modules require 5 volt logic level ignition outputs.
  11. taaron

    78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    Hey All, I just wanted to make a new topic because I have a bit of a more specific question and wanted to make sure I'm absolutely on the right path before I start modifying my board. So I bought a Megasquirt 2 3.57 Assembled board from DIY Autotune. It did not come with the BIP373 transistor (ordered and will be here today hopefully). I've attached pictures of my board and how it currently sits. I know the first thing I need to do is wire in the BIP373 transistor and follow the steps associated with that. Thats pretty straight forward. The problem I'm having is with triggering. I currently have a new 82/83 Turbo ZX Distributor with the trigger wheel from DIYAUTO. I also have the original trigger wheel that came with the dizzy, just not installed. I was wondering what is going to be my best bang for the buck way to set up triggering. Softopz mentioned going the route of the VR Conditioner. If thats the case, do I just follow the steps listed in the msextra manual (Attached to this post for ease of reading). What about setting up tunerstudio. Also should I be worried with all the wires currently ran on the back of my board. I should note I'm currently using a relay board and would like to keep it if possible. I'm not concerned with trying to have the most precision triggering possible, I just want to be able to have a car that I can drive again.
  12. taaron

    78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    In case you still wanted it, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2854991 We're looking at trying to get a nylon piece made, if that doesn't work I'll probably try PETG.
  13. taaron

    78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    I'll definitely share a link to the file once I'm on my other computer tomorrow. Yes its PLA. No its not annealed. Its just in there to hold the sensor right now, the car isn't ready to run enough to heat up let alone run on the street. That being said, SUPER productive weekend. Got all the wiring in. Getting a usb to serial cable from a coworker tomorrow and should be plugging in tomorrow afternoon (still have to buy the software)! Any words of advice Chickenman?
  14. taaron

    78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    So I know its been a little while, haven't had a ton of time to work on this project but finally getting back to it. Got the new turbo zx injectors in, all the clips made. I designed and 3d printed a bracket for the 240sx TPS (which I can make available online if anyones interested). I did run into a problem however. I bought the coolant sensor from DIY Autotune, https://www.diyautotune.com/product/gm-closed-element-clt-iat-sensor-with-pigtail/, and it doesnt fit in the thermostat at all. Can I use the original one?
  15. taaron

    78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    So I've got the distributor on! However the rotor looks like it accepts a bolt or something to hold it on and I can't find anything about this. Am I dumb and just missing something?
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