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Everything posted by taaron

  1. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    Of course! We wound up going with nylon printed on its side. I'll let you know how it holds up.
  2. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    So I've gotten sick of attempting to fix this botched wiring job by the PO. I decided to just go ahead and completely replace the ancient efi system with something modern. I was wondering if this parts list looks complete. From scrounging various boards and posts I think I've gathered just about everything I will need. I'm a little intimidated by the whole thing so sureing this up will make me feel just a bit better.
  3. 78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    So to anyone that gets stuck where I did, DONT FORGET THE MICA INSULATOR ON THE BIP373. The car is running now!
  4. 78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    Hey All, I just wanted to make a new topic because I have a bit of a more specific question and wanted to make sure I'm absolutely on the right path before I start modifying my board. So I bought a Megasquirt 2 3.57 Assembled board from DIY Autotune. It did not come with the BIP373 transistor (ordered and will be here today hopefully). I've attached pictures of my board and how it currently sits. I know the first thing I need to do is wire in the BIP373 transistor and follow the steps associated with that. Thats pretty straight forward. The problem I'm having is with triggering. I currently have a new 82/83 Turbo ZX Distributor with the trigger wheel from DIYAUTO. I also have the original trigger wheel that came with the dizzy, just not installed. I was wondering what is going to be my best bang for the buck way to set up triggering. Softopz mentioned going the route of the VR Conditioner. If thats the case, do I just follow the steps listed in the msextra manual (Attached to this post for ease of reading). What about setting up tunerstudio. Also should I be worried with all the wires currently ran on the back of my board. I should note I'm currently using a relay board and would like to keep it if possible. I'm not concerned with trying to have the most precision triggering possible, I just want to be able to have a car that I can drive again.
  5. 78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    I've done all those things, according to the msextra manual. I put a 1k resistor in r57 because thats what I had around so that worked. 10v is my main concern because that seems to be whats holding me up. I believe spark is now the only thing holding me up. The battery is good, I had it tested at autozone this weekend, and it lives on a trickle charger. My MS2 grounds are currently on chassis (I know bad, getting corrected tonight). That chassis ground is also connected to the block in a real shit (greasy dirty) spot, didn't have time to make a longer cable last night to relocate). My battery sits in the back of the car, so it is grounded to the chassis in the back ( I can run it to the block up front if that needs to happen, however I thought the shorter run cable would be better than having an 11ft ground to the block. I'm going to get all those grounds rearranged this evening and see if that gives me 12v out of that terminal. If not I'm going to start pulling wires one at a time to see where my voltage is bleeding out.
  6. 78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    Yup did all of those things.
  7. 78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    So great news update, I think. Followed all the instructions, I now have both trigger signals and rpms showing up. New problem is, I'm for some reason just getting 10ish volts out of my relayboard at the fuel pump/coil+ position. Could this potentially be due to some bad grounding? I initially had everything grounded at the starter motor but learned thats a big No No. I moved it a bit further away but I still need to relocate it to the other side of the block, I just didn't have the terminals on me to make the cable.
  8. 78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    So I've looked at that site, and going through the VR Conditioner on there is different than on the MSExtra manual. Theres a lot more steps listed and at the same time, it calls out these proto areas that don't exist on these boards. Hardware mods – V3.57 For a V3.57, you’d have to remove a lot of parts to use the Hall / optical input, so we’ll just bring this in through the VR conditioner instead. Place the JP1 jumper in the 1-2 position. Place the J1 jumper in the 5-6 position. Put a 1K resistor in the R57 slot (Or you can use a 1K pull up in the wiring, as above.). If you want sequential coil on plug (or sequential injection with the 3.2.1 code), you’ll also need a second trigger input. Solder a 1K resistor onto a length of wire, and cover the resistor with heat shrink tubing. Connect this resistor-on-a-wire combination from JS10 to SPR1. You could also use PAD7 if you’d rather bring the input in through the DB15. Solder a 470 ohm resistor onto a length of wire and cover with heat shrink tubing. Run this resistor-on-a-wire from the 5 volt terminal in the proto area to SPR1 (or PAD7 if you used this in the preceeding step.). Connect a 0.1 uF capacitor from JS10 to SG or the proto area ground. Install the spark output of your choice. BIP373 or QuadSpark output mods are two possible choices. OEM Nissan SR20DET ignition modules require 5 volt logic level ignition outputs.
  9. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    In case you still wanted it, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2854991 We're looking at trying to get a nylon piece made, if that doesn't work I'll probably try PETG.
  10. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    I'll definitely share a link to the file once I'm on my other computer tomorrow. Yes its PLA. No its not annealed. Its just in there to hold the sensor right now, the car isn't ready to run enough to heat up let alone run on the street. That being said, SUPER productive weekend. Got all the wiring in. Getting a usb to serial cable from a coworker tomorrow and should be plugging in tomorrow afternoon (still have to buy the software)! Any words of advice Chickenman?
  11. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    So I know its been a little while, haven't had a ton of time to work on this project but finally getting back to it. Got the new turbo zx injectors in, all the clips made. I designed and 3d printed a bracket for the 240sx TPS (which I can make available online if anyones interested). I did run into a problem however. I bought the coolant sensor from DIY Autotune, https://www.diyautotune.com/product/gm-closed-element-clt-iat-sensor-with-pigtail/, and it doesnt fit in the thermostat at all. Can I use the original one?
  12. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    So I've got the distributor on! However the rotor looks like it accepts a bolt or something to hold it on and I can't find anything about this. Am I dumb and just missing something?
  13. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    Damnit. Well I do have the gasket at least haha.
  14. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    So I bought this because I thought I needed it. But with it in place the oil pump shaft doesn't reach the dizzy. Am I mistaken and don't need it?
  15. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    Thanks for the response! I didn't even think about having to order a new distributor cap/rotor so thats on the way now. All that seems like something I can do, but I'm a little stuck on the last part Any more information on this step? I'm a little completely lost here. Also I may have missed an important step, how do I actually connect the new distributor to the rest of the system. Is it just a cable that I can't seem to find? And do I need a distributor mount like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-280ZX-E12-80-distributor-mount-plate-OEM-used-w-bolts/382365166699?hash=item5906bd6c6b:g:V-oAAOSw9NBab-wM&vxp=mtr Or can I reuse the original one.
  16. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    So finally started making some progress! Pretty stoked, got the engine to tdc, put the new oil pump shaft in and it lined up! Now I'm a little stuck. A bolt holding the old dizzy on sheared off so I need to figure out how to extract it. I do just want to double check I got the right parts. Does this distributor look right? It looks pretty completely different. Also I bought this optical trigger disk, I'm guessing I still need to put it on. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/54-mm-optical-trigger-wheel-for-nissan-l28et-or-vg30e/
  17. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    I considered it. And itll happen eventually. But I didn't want to wait for the rail to get in to get the car running again. And I needed to pause the spending for a little while. But I will be upgraded. And I am still looking for a dizzy, I was just going to pick one up from Autozone if I couldn't find one this week.
  18. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    So I basically gutted everything this past weekend. It was an incredible feeling. I figured I could attempt to salvage some of the harness, but in the end I decided to just redo everything. Its not that hard to wire in a few brake lights. I kept the dropping resistors. Thanks for the advice! A Pallnet rail and hi-impedance injectors are on the list, but thats going to have to be a later in the year upgrade. Have to let my credit card recover a little. There is currently a little shitty eBay FPR on it. I've been meaning to get it updated to something more reliable, maybe now is my excuse. Unfortunately I've already got just about everything sitting at the house but appreciate the offer!
  19. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    First off, just want to say thanks a ton. You guys have been insanely helpful already! I really appreciate it. Once these packages start finally showing up I'll definitely be reaching out for some tuning support. This is definitely something Ill have to add in. My "new" injector blower just arrived yesterday and I've been already planning to try and wire it in. Thats good to hear! I feel like its definitely going to be a lot easier to get that in the intake pipe than in the manifold. I just checked autozone, it looks like the one my car uses is a 12x1.5 but the one the Camaro uses is also a 12x1.5, so that should work! Assuming autozone is correct haha. So I've been tracing out the wiring diagram to figure out everything thats going to be removed from this car and its definitely starting to seem like a lot of crap. Does this seem about right? I know some of this stuff will be going back in upgraded, ie TVS with TPS. Water Temp Sensor Thermotime Switch Cold Start Valve Air Regulator Throttle Valve Switch AFM Dropping Resistors Altitude Switch Fuel Injection relay Fuel pump/control relays Transistor ignition unit
  20. 78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

    I'm struggling to find the post but I believe I read somewhere that the Coolant Sensor already in the car can work, it just needs to be calibrated in the tuner. My only fear with upgrading to the GM sensor there is tapping the larger hole. Thats never been my strong suite and I'm terrified of messing up the block. Lol I'm already not looking forward to tapping the manifold for the IAT. Is this the distributor wheel? https://www.diyautotune.com/product/54-mm-optical-trigger-wheel-for-nissan-l28et-or-vg30e/ This is the furthest I've ever been on a project like this so I'm not totally sure. Not a bad idea on a few sets of spare pigtails in case I mess something up. Any good recommendations for injectors? I don't super trust mine, but at the same time, I'd like to not push my budget above 1500. Maybe upgrading just to the 280zx turbo ones so I can be sure they'll fit? (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-6-Factory-Reman-Nissan-OEM-Injectors-1981-83-280ZX-TURBO-1660302911/201317301856?epid=1739692544&hash=item2edf723e60:g:y-IAAOSw3v5Yruw6&vxp=mtr) And I've got a new set of ratcheting crimpers on order, my old little crimpers just can't give me any sense of security when it comes to making connections haha.
  21. So maybe a bit of a weird problem. I went through and started replacing all my fuel injector clips with some replacements out of a Volvo. They actually snap on, its great, or so I thought. Something happened and I'm not longer getting full power to each injector. The side of the injectors that get power from the Fuel Injector Relay and Dropping resistors are all good. But the side that seems to feed off the ECU are all reading a fraction of the 12V. Weirder is when I touch them with a multi, they read a voltage and just quickly start draining. Anyone ever see this problem before? Car ran fine a few days ago. Battery is brand new as of today.
  22. 280Z Alternator Problem

    Managed to get the alternator replaced. Immediately its putting out 14v! Definitely looks like that was my problem. Now I just have to do some positioning better because the belt is squealing. Definitely looks like that solved my problem! Can't believe they even bother telling you your clearly busted alternator is still good.
  23. So I have a 78 280z that I rescued from an abusive home a few months ago. Didn't run at all when I got it, but thats since changed. I've been test driving it and it died on me the other day. It led me to believe I have charging issues. I took a look at the alternator and its a recent upgrade from a 81 NA 280zx. The alternator itself is only putting out 12.3v when idling at 1300rpm. The "L" cable is only putting out roughly 11.8v into the alternator. When I swap this with a hot wire from my battery thats putting out 12.3v, the alternator starts making unbearable noises. From what I've read online, this zx alternator should be putting out ~14v constantly, however I've never seen above 12.5. I took it off and took it to autozone where they tested it twice and said it was fine. Battery is also brand new, bought it at most a month ago. I'm stuck, because the longer the car seems to be on, the more it seems to be draining. And after 15-20 minutes it will just be too drained to run and will die.
  24. 280Z Alternator Problem

    Aw man thats not great to hear about the results. So is it right in thinking that because it is putting out such a low voltage chances are it is bad?
  25. 280Z Alternator Problem

    I thought that the 78 was a direct swap and didn't require the whole external regulator procedure.