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captainkim

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About captainkim

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    New Jersey

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  1. captainkim

    Rubber Plugs

    I wanted to put some fatmax on the car, but if the plugs do wear then i need to cut a hole in the sound deadener for the plugs so i can change them when it rots again. there are so many plugs also!!
  2. captainkim

    Rubber Plugs

    Sorry if this has been discussed before but ....I drive a 71 240Z ......What is the purpose of the rubber plugs on the floor , trunk , etc? Water still seems to get in.. Can I just fiberglass it shut or is there another reason this needs to be accessible? thanks
  3. captainkim

    WTB Whels and large brakes

    Looking to buy : 1) 4 x 15 in wheels (wantanabe style) 2) wilwood brake set or any other BBK 3) coil overs or bilstein suspension
  4. captainkim

    Door lock

    yes its a 71z . When it goes on the first "click" and I pull the handle, it retracts back al,l the way. But when i do the double click, it doesnt fully retract. Ive used lubricant all over and it still wont retract all the way. Almost as if it was the spring. I guess i should figure out how to remove the entire mechanism, and try re lubing it all
  5. captainkim

    Door lock

    Ive seen multiple forums on slamming doors but im hoping someone can help me out with a slightly different issue. Everytime i close the door, it locks in place....however, everytime I open the door and try to close it again, the spring in the door mechanism doesnt allow the contact point to go back into the full position. It stops midway thus not allowing me to close the door unless i manually pull up the notch. Is this something that can be fixed with out replacing the entire mechanism? Its almost as if the springs are worn out
  6. captainkim

    Fender flares

    I figured that would be the answer. I saw that some of the trucks had the drillless mounts. For now I’ll keep it off on the z thanks again
  7. captainkim

    Fender flares

    thanks for the responses. I have a 240z with the flares on them but I hate having to had to drill into the fenders....The next Z im contemplating on leaving it on without but will miss the wider tires and look. I guess you cant have the best of both worlds.
  8. captainkim

    Fender flares

    Does anyone know if they manufacture fender flares that you dont need to drill? I like the look but hate the thought of drilling....also in case I want to go back to standard. I see they have it for trucks but i didnt see anything for cars
  9. Clunked has been fixed. The bolts connecting the diff bolts connecting to the bar was hand loose....Ive stripped the inside and rustproofed the entire interior. The PO used sound deadener to mask some of the rust. Had to sand it all out and seal it. Waiting for the new carpet and liners to install. Car runs strong...and Im in the process of trying to restore but my hearts not into it....I think I may just buy one that is stock and work on that. Ill put the interior in when I get it and then sell it for someone else to care for it. Still on the fence
  10. I ended up changing the thermostat and the waterpump and now the temp is within reason. Thanks again for the input. Now i have to deal with the dreaded clunk in the rear. I did get the metal housing and the metal impeller....mechanical is not the problem.....its the wiring im afraid of. Im clueless in both for the wire and electricity. More so on this since I didnt set it up
  11. I ended up changing the thermostat and the waterpump and now the temp is within reason. Thanks again for the input. Now i have to deal with the dreaded clunk in the rear. Question...off topic...Im on the fence of moving forward with this build as it will end up costing more $$. Im thinking getting rid of this and starting from a purist side with original matching engine and hopefully a rustfree car which is also$$. At the end of the day, I may end up spending the same amount but who knows how long the s50 will last me and then id be stuck as im clueless to the S50 engine. Thoughts? suggestions? Really need the groups advice.
  12. Thanks again everyone. I’ll check and replace the thermostat this weekend
  13. its not overheating per say, but unless the gauge is wrong, im nearing 250 degrees quite often
  14. Thank you all for your responses. I will have to go back and take a look at the specs. ZHoob....you were close in your calculation...i mistyped....at 4000 RPM I was going 80MPH. Im trying to lower RPM as my car tends to reach the boiling temp and at times i have to slow down to cool off the engine. Gas saving is secondary but also a plus. There seems to be many options but i think we all agree that 5th gear really doesnt do much but make me shift...I have 14 " wheels....I need to change them anyway so ill take that route first....Im guessing i keep the tire same for width and depth and just the diameter should be changed (unless it starts to rub). Thanks again everyone....i hope the wheel change will be enough...Im also going to try the royal purple coolant..supposed to drop temp up to 25 degrees
  15. I have a 1971 240z with a S50 (1995 BMW M3) engine and tranny. My refvs are very high at cruising speeds. Im at 4000 when going 75. I would imagine I would have to chenge the rear diff aas its the stock one from the 240z. Question is.....do i have to change it with a BMW rear end (that may not fit) or can i use r200 so i dont have to make major adjustments. Im unfamiliar with all the gear ratios but I keep reading that R200 4.11 is the most common used....not exactly sure what that does, but i would like to lower my rpms to 2500 when going 75 if possible.....I believe thatll take some torque away but im hoping the engine can handle the extra oomph from the start so its not too slow.. Also not sure if it makes a difference but its a 5 speed manual Can someone advise me of next steps? I hope i dont have to get a rear diff from BMW...and if i can use a R200 .... anyone have place to get one used in working condition? thanks in advance
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