captainkim

I ordered a new ignition switch. Hoping that it’s something in there that’s not clicking. In the interim, I know there is a lot of info out there regarding painless wiring but I Can’t find one information that is relevant to my 2/71 240z. Everything is either EZ wiring from Australia with right handed drive as well as partial connections. Most of the time I see different connections being made. Worst is that I’ve downloaded all of the wiring that I could find but there are still wires that do t match the colors in the schematic. At this point I believe the ignition is set, the lights go on and off but the turn signals don’t work individuality....all four blinkers are going off. If there is a comprehensive article out there for a painless wire 10101,I would be SOOOOOOO grateful. I just want the turn signals to work and the brakes so I can drive

Thanks for the warning!!! I ended up just connecting a hose as a temporary use for testing engine start. i ordered a Vincos 20ft 6an an6 nylon and SS Braided lines. So now that the gas has stopped leaking, the issue still stands. But first l want to make sure the car is safe. The pic is not great but the fuel pump is right by the tank. The fuel pump was then sliced into two? And one just isn’t used and the other goes to the oil sender switch and then an output? from the sender to the relay I set up temporarily. I hope the pictures are clear

Wow Thanks for all the info. I was hoping to temporarily use the rubber line for ease and then switch to SS. It almost sounded dangerous , the way the po set up the line. All three lines (I’m assuming return, vapor, gas) follow the same path. I’ll get some picks tomorrow

Thanks!!! I tried both suggestions but the shifter was too far out and I really tried to take out the driveshaft etc but without a lift my arm went dead and is impossible for me to tackle. I was debating 1) buy a new rubber fuel line and start from the rear area and reroute 2) cut a hole in the tranny and replace the broken connecters 3) I try to squeeze some in weld exhausted.

I hope it’s the issue but I guess thats part of the process. I will try the shifter option. Thanks so much!!!!

I think I found the culprit. After I changed the fuel regulator, I must’ve loosened the fuel pipe even more than it was before. It must’ve been a slow drip and now it puddles on the floor. I was able to find the leak BUT the pipe / attaching connectors are loose and they are right above the tranny and I have no way of reaching it to tighten unless I pull off the tranny (which I don’t know how to do). Is there some magic glue or tape that can be used for those impossible places to reach? It’s dripping at the brass connectors and not on the pipe ...as far as I can tell. This is frustrating that I can see the problem but can’t do anything about it. Unless I cut the area right above the spot from inside the car .....and then what? More work. do you know if there’s some specific way to get to this? I don’t know if this is a modified fuel pipe or stock so I apologize in advance if I lost you. I tried to upload pictures and reduced the size and it just keeps giving me error gonna sleep on it thanks!

Thanks for the encouragement. OK so this is an early 71 240z. It has a SBC with a T56 transmission. After driving a bit, the wires started smoking and found some burned wires. Instead of tracing each wire, I ripped out all of the harnesses (front and rear) and purchased Painless 10101 wiring. The wiring goes all the way to the (lights, etc) and for the ignition, I still have the connecting wires and joining it with the painless wires.The painless does come with a horn relay and i have a relay panel ready to go ion once i get this car started. As of now, the lights work and the ignition cranks, STARTS...and then immediately dies (i tried giving gas b4 dying but it didnt work). Ended up buying and replacing: 1) Ignition Coil 2) Just to be sure I got rid of the old ignition and bought an HEI 3) Carb is new and I was able to drive prior to wire issue 4) Fuel Regulator 5) Oil pressure sender 6) Starter 7) Fuel Filter same results I have a single wire alternator and from other members, I was told i didnt need a voltage regulator. I havent setup the relays yet. Want to start the car before tidying up the wires. When I turn the key to the ON position, I can hear the fuel pump. On the carburetor, there is no choke and when i give it gas i can see the gas coming out from both sides. It starts REALLY SMOOTH and easy but dies right after as if its not getting gas at idle. I rechecked the firing order, re timed with the distributor. Im thinking its the fule not getting in at idle. Would i be able to see the gas coming out into the carb when the car is at idle?

I originally had cap, rotor and replaced the ignition and it still had the same result. I thought if I changed to hei, that would do the trick...but it’s the same result. I’ll check the wires. Is there a way to test the module?

Thanks for that. Ive started setting up the relays but now have a new issue. My car cranks , and then starts and then immediately dies. I believe its the fuel not getting into the carb (SBC). When i manually press the gas i can see the gas squirting out from both barrells. I changed the fuel pump, filter, changed the oil sender unit, new HEI ignition, double checked the firing order...what else is left? i replaced the fuel regulator about 8 months ago...do you think it could be the cause? Since it fires up and starts, It must be getting spark and ignition. ANy help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks again. It’s almost scary how thin these wires are compared to the oem harness. I will probably have a field day with this and go overboard!!!

Sorry if I didnt explain myself clearly...still learning... The painless wiring came with a fuse box that I am going to use (the original wires and box all fried up). I think the confusion is that the relay panel also has fuses and Im calling it a fuse box. (Also the relays I have, has a built in fuse) Ill just call it a relay panel. So based on your reply it sounds like i can connect all my relays directly from the fuse box and not have rewire everything again. I can just add a wire to the back of the fuse box and jump it to the relay. THANK YOU SOOOOOOOO MUCH!!! Wiring is driving me bonkers and I dont want to burn the wires again, so I want to add relays as much as i can. Of the 6 relays, are there any "ABSOLUTELY" must have? I was going to use them for: 1) fuel pump 2) low beam 3) High Beam 4) horn 5)? 6)? thanks again!

Hi, Sorry if this is a noob question, but Im new at working with wires in the car. I am in the process of rewiring my 71 240z (painless wiring) and learning as I go. Im trying to add relays, so Ive made a box of 6 relays and wiring's... My question is: Since the relays will be near the main fuse box...can I source all of my relay connections from the main box or do i have to rewire the current setup? ex. Fuel pump....can i use the main fuse box for the pump and add a wire to connect it to the relay panel..or do i i have to take the actual wire to the fuel pump and redirect them to the relay panel? Sorry if this is a stupid question but this is my first time trying to wire a car

Thanks everyone for the response. I have done all of the above mentioned and am finally looking at the schematics. Even still, it seems like some wires need to be connected together like the front and rear parking lights etc. I’m in the process of trying make sense of all the different sources into one. I follwed the pics a few days back and then saw another that has it another way. I’ll figure it out. I have everything. Just have to follow the lines and hope I. Can correctly match it

i thought I was good to move on to relays but my ignition wiring is not working now. i have a SBC so i used the painless wiring for GM 10101. ON the ignition section , they have 2 hot wires (red) and 2 purple (see below). The ignition column only has 5 slots (behind the key)....Would anyone know the correct wiring for ignition? Do i need to join some wires together? Ive looked all over and most links are no longer valid. Any pics or responses are GREATLY appreciated. This wiring is driving me bonkers and have me second guessing everything This is how the reference book is showing. RED: (2) 12 gauge wires, printed [IGNITION SWITCH SECTION] #934 TO IGNITION SWITCH (POWER B+), these wires come from a buss bar on the fuse block and feed battery power to the ignition switch. These wires have power at all times. 10102 & 10104 only has one RED #934 wire. ORANGE: 12 gauge wire, printed [IGNITION SWITCH SECTION] #933 TO IGNITION SWITCH “IGN”, this wire provides the switched power source to the fuse block. This wire powers all of the switched power circuits to the harness with the exception of the RADIO fuse. This wire only has power when the ignition switch is in the ON/RUN position. PINK: 14 gauge wire, printed [IGNITION SWITCH SECTION] #931 TO IGNITION SWITCH (COIL IGN), this wire provides power from the ignition switch to the 30 amp COIL fuse on the fuse block. This wire has power when the ignition switch is in the ON/RUN position as well as the START position. PURPLE: 12 gauge wire, NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH, this wire sends power to the neutral safety switch and only has power when the ignition switch is in the START position. Kits 10101 & 10103 will have 2 PURPLE wires: one going from the ign. switch connector to the NSS and the other leading from the NSS to the starter solenoid. Kits 10102 & 10104 only have a single wire printed [ENGINE SECTION A] #919 TO STARTER SOLENOID. BROWN: 12 gauge wire, printed [IGNITION SWITCH SECTION] TO IGNITION SWITCH ACC, this wire carries power to the RADIO fuse on the fuse block. This BROWN wire has power when the ignition is in the ACCESSORY position and when in the ON/RUN position.

Thank you guys for the quick reply!!! This forum is awesome. Regarding the relays...it sounds like it’s more of a added feature and if possible add it everywhere? Is there a danger of not adding any relays? I thought I read that the 240z dimmer switch had a relay built in? thanks