dukemushroom918 Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Vehicle: 1983 280zx N/A, 5 speed, EFI Pulled engine to completely reseal...was running ok before. Re-installed engine, replaced electrical connectors. Cleaned up itnake manifold some (deleted non-essential components). I have spark, I have fuel, mechanically timing is correct and valves have been adjusted to spec, checked compression (160 psi on all 6 cylinders). Will not start unless distribuor is at full advance but will not idle on own. Revs strong from 1-3k, after that there is terrible hesitation. Noticed that rotor (inside disributor) was easy to turn to full advance, disassembled and found springs to be worn, replaced and condition did not change. I feel like the dizzy has taken a $h!7 but I am open to any advice. Thanks! My background: ASE certified, Toyota Expert Technician so don't be afraid to get technical with me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 What, in numbers, is the timing set to, initial, and what does it do when you rev the engine? That will tell you a ton about your timing and distributor quality, more than the finger test of spring tension. After it starts do you move the timing back or do you leave it at maximum advance (whatever that is)? What, exactly, non-essential components did you remove? When you talk about revving, is this while driving, or in neutral? What does "hesitation" mean, if you're in neutral? Odds are high that you have a vacuum leak and something out of adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dukemushroom918 Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 That's the thing, I can't see what the timing is because it will not idle at all...I have to turn the distributor to full advance just to get it to start. Revving is done in neutral, has responsive revs until about 3k RPM, does the same thing if I try to drive it (feels like pulling a load that's way too heavy). I removed the EGR and blocked off all openings, everything on top of the intake manifold (cold start, etc.) to clean it up. This is not a daily driver and will get an engine swap in the future so I wasn't too concerned about the emissions equipment. I've checked over and over for vacuum leaks but I will check again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 I would double check the distributor . Maybe the oil pump was clocked wrong . Bring number one to TDC and check the rotor orientation . Or poss. damaged intake boot . Just a thought . Good luck . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dukemushroom918 Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 That was one of the first things I did, it is lined up where it needs to be and rotor is pointing at 1 when at TDC. I made a block off plate for where the EGR used to go, I wonder if it's not sealing up right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 That was one of the first things I did, it is lined up where it needs to be and rotor is pointing at 1 when at TDC. I made a block off plate for where the EGR used to go, I wonder if it's not sealing up right? Carb spray it or use a smoke machine to check for vac leak . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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