280Z Door Speaker Help

[m1ghtymaxXx]

I'm tackling an audio install in my 77, and the last remaining issue is how to go about adding speakers to the front of the cabin. I saw a member was making quality fiberglass door panels with speaker provisions, however it requires finishing them and converting to power windows, a complexity I prefer to avoid. 

 

As much as it pains me, I plan on cutting the doors and panels to mount 5.25" coax speakers, but I was hoping to hear from people who have done it. My main concern is the door isn't flat in the location where I intend to mount the speaker, so I was wondering what others have done to avoid distorting the speaker when it's screwed down. Also how did you go about running wires to the doors? 

 

Here's a few pics for reference:

 

Doesn't look like the window crank can turn

 

 

 

This car has a power window conversion

 

Install in a 240Z

 

 

I've already built a fiberglass false floor woofer enclosure, and will run a Retrosound Model 2 head unit (user reviews would be appreciated as well)

Edited June 1, 2015 by m1ghtymaxXx

[FrankieD]

In the pictures you've shown the last (install in 240z) is the location I used. The window will work fine.

 

As for the uneven door panel The front of the speaker is fine as for the back I made a little "filler" piece to fill in the gap.

 

I used balsa wood because it was easy to work with. A contour gage and cut it to fit with an exacto knife.

 

Painted it black & all was good. I used that system for years.

 

Someone on the forum makes fiberglass kick panels that will house a 4-4.5 inch woofer.

 

I'm using that now with tweeters in the doors and larger (6 x 9 ) speakers in the back.

 

Good luck.

[m1ghtymaxXx]

I presume you put the filler piece under the door panel or vinyl? Happen to have any pics? I was thinking I would put the spacer under the panel vinyl to avoid any gaps and keep it looking as clean and original as possible. 

 

I would love to go the kick panel route, however the 280Z has the ECU on the driver's side, and fuse box on the passenger side kick panels.

 

How did you run wiring into the doors? I was thinking of running the speaker wires through some vacuum line for added protecting when it runs next to the hinges. 

[88dangerdan]

The PO had already done this

And it had the gap that you speak of. So I ended up pulling it out a little bit by the door opener side. Then I screwed the east/west speaker holes to the door after the panel was put on. That sucked in up enough that it didn't stand out.

Then I screwed the north/south holes to secure the speaker cover that way the stress wasn't on the plastic cover. I also shorten the window cranks so they no longer hit the speaker. These are 6" speakers. Kinda had to work with what he had already done. Good news is it doesn't interfere with any of the door internals.

[Phantom]

I'll attach some photos of mine.  It has 1" dome tweeters in the A pillars and 6 1/2" dual cone speakers in each door along with 5 1/4" speakers in the stock location on the sides behind the seats and a 10" subwoofer in a custom enclosure in the back.  The door panels were fiberglassed up in the area where the speakers are to point them back & up a bit and the window crank clears them fine. Only thing I had to do was shorten the outboard end of the hood pull lever to clear the one on the drivers side.

 

 

 

Edited June 27, 2015 by Phantom

[m1ghtymaxXx]

That looks great Phantom! I'm guessing you did the stretched fabric method to shape the pods? Did you have to cut the doors as well for clearance? This is the most elegant looking install I've seen yet, only thing is I was hoping to avoid upholstery work. I'm wondering if I can take the upholstery off the door card, add a pod, and conform the original upholstery back over it again. 

 

Good to know you can fit 6.5" speakers, but I think I'll stick to 5.25" for ease of install. 

 

Any tips on running the speaker wires?

[Phantom]

Drilled holes in the end of the door and door frame. Inserted small rubber grommets and ran the wire. Some guys just run the wire between the door panel and kick panel for simplicity but that leaves the wires visible. You'll need to be sure to leave enough slack in the wire for the door to open.

[m1ghtymaxXx]

So I started into my door speaker project on the weekend. I have a pair of 3.5" Alpine Type S, and 5.25" Type R coax speakers. My plan was to buy another pair of 5.25" for the doors and sell the 3.5s, but upon test fitting, I found the 3.5" fits the contours of the door panels much nicer I was trying to avoid covering the crease that runs parallel to the bottom and front vertical edge of the door. I still needed to build the area up, and sculpture my sister maid in her childhood from Model Magic caught my eye as the perfect material to do it with (lightweight, flexible, and easily sculpted without the need for sanding. I peeled back the vinyl and sculpted some pods from Model Magic:

 

Initially my plan was to wrap the vinyl right over the tried Model Magic and call it a day, however the stuff seems to dent pretty easily so I figured it was prudent to reinforce it. I soaked a test piece in fiberglass resin and it didn't so much as soften, so I added 2 layers of fiberglass "boat cloth" on top:

 

The fiberglass never cured before I had to leave for work for the week, but all that's left to do is trim the edges, and cut the speaker holes before stretching the vinyl over the new speaker pod and holding in place with spray adhesive. I've already confirmed there's plenty of vinyl to cover the new shape even before heating and stretching. 

 

I spent the rest of the day working on the sub box, but here's a recap.

 

First I cut out the spotwelds holding one of the jack brackets that protrudes into the spare tire well. Any other protrusions were covered with duct tape. Then I lined the whole area with tinfoil and masking tape and built some MDF walls around the perimeter. 

 

And presto:

 

10" Phoenix Gold slim woofer (only 4" deep) mocked in place. 

 

And the top complete. The sub is recessed 1" into the box, which sits below the stock false floor in the 280Z. I will duplicate the false floor panel but with a hole cut out above the sub and covered over with expanded metal plate. Stock carpet will lay down over leaving the trunk entirely stock looking and fully functional (just no spare tire in the original location)

Edited June 16, 2015 by m1ghtymaxXx

[Phantom]

Looking good.  What are you running for an amplifier?  Do you have crossovers or a capacitor in the system?