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Everything posted by m1ghtymaxXx

  1. Here's some old pics with 225/50s that give a better idea of the poke. I would say the tires would interfere with the airdam before they would rub the fenders. I did mount up some 215/60s which had that issue, they would only fit the rear.
  2. 0 offset, plus 8mm spacers on the front. The tires in this pic are actually 205/55s as the selection of 225s has dropped off over the past few years, but it never once rubbed with the various 225/50s and 225/45s I've had on it. I only bought them because several others reported no issues with the same wheels and tires.
  3. It shouldnt' take any real work to make them fit. I run 15x9s with 225/50r15s with sock fenders and stock strut housings with Eibach lowering springs. All it took was 1/4" spacers to clear the struts, though I went with 8mm for peace of mind. Fenders aren't rolled and it has never once rubbed despite aggressive driving on rough roads. Of course the setup mentioned has 1" greater tire diameter but I think you're severely overestimating what's involved.
  4. Often referred to as a "frame horn" or similar.
  5. Bit late to the party, but what size filler are you using? The only way to keep the heat low enough on thin stainless is to use thin filler, like 0.040" or less. If you can't find it, MIG wire works in a jam. I snip off a couple feet, put one end in the vice and chuck the other into a drill put some tension on it and spin it until it breaks. Than stick it back in the drill and turn it the opposite way until it breaks and then you should have nice straight length of filler for TIG.
  6. I bought an Everlast 200DX almost 3 years ago would certainly recommend it. I've used Miller Dynasties and cheap Princess Auto (Canuck Harbour Freight) machines as well. They all weld basically the same, so the difference comes down to reliability, ease of setup, duty cycle, value etc. My Everlast hasn't had a hitch, and I chose it based on their customer service reviews, and the fact they had a Canadian distributor. And of course the price. My only complaints about mine are that the LCD screen only displays voltage. It's not a problem 99% of the time, but now and then I like to play wit
  7. This sounds like a similar issue to my 77. I wasn't able to start it after taking it out of storage (storage meant frozen into my driveway this winter unfortunately). First thing the fuel pump wouldn't fire, so I bench tested the fuel pump relay and AFM and both tested good. After reinstalling the AFM it fire right up, so my guess was the flapper was slightly stuck after sitting, and my starter is on a button so the fuel pump won't be triggered by the ignition switch, though this has never been a problem. Once started I was able to drive the car just fine for about 2 hours, once losing p
  8. I found this site that has a good selection of springs that may be suitable in place of washer stack, here's a chart of potentially suitable spring sizes. The same site sells belleville washers also so I was thinking of putting in an order for new washers and a spring and test fitting both. I think one of the main issues with the belleville washers is that each side of the stack spins in opposite directions and the washers wear against each other giving them a sharpened edge, and if one cracks, all that friction must tear it to shreds such as the case of one of my large washers.
  9. After 3 seasons one of the large Belleville washers disintegrated and filled my diff with metal shavings. After a teardown and inspection it seems everything is okay except for a some slightly bent and chipped teeth on the helical gears inside the LSD unit. My plan of attack is to grind down any high spots on the gears, (possibly even weld up and grind down low spots too), then reassemble the carrier and give it to a local driveline shop and have them pull the pinion shaft, thoroughly clean the case and reassemble everything using new pinion bearings and reusing the carrier bearings and shims
  10. Just left a comment on your youtube video before posting this. Is the USB port just for charging or can you use it to play music as well? Just 2 sound channels (right and left, no front and rear)? Does it have RCA amp outputs?
  11. I've had to wire push button starts in both my 77 and 83 Z's. My electrical knowledge is minimal and I had no trouble cobbling together a working system from individual components. Here's what you'll need: - Momentary switch - 4 pin relay & pigtail - Constant fused 12v+ - Wire & spade terminal to fit the starter solenoid, ring terminal for ground. - Multimeter - Soldering iron etc. to make some splice connections. Chose a location for your starter button. In my 77 I used a knockout in the center console about the hazzard light switch. I brought the knoc
  12. That's the first I've seen a flex plate used with a manual transmission? What does it take to make it work? I presume a friction surface is welded or bolted on? New holes drilled for the pressure plate? No issues with the the flexibility or strength of the thin flex plate?
  13. Did you look to see if the circlips were bent out of shape?
  14. ^ I came to post the same thing. Moment resistance may not be your friend, and if the pinned connection weren't pivoting, the bars would probably be flexing. The fact that it's a triangle means it should keep its shape in both axis on the horizontal plane.
  15. Hub arrived and installed thanks to NW240Z!
  16. So I started into my door speaker project on the weekend. I have a pair of 3.5" Alpine Type S, and 5.25" Type R coax speakers. My plan was to buy another pair of 5.25" for the doors and sell the 3.5s, but upon test fitting, I found the 3.5" fits the contours of the door panels much nicer I was trying to avoid covering the crease that runs parallel to the bottom and front vertical edge of the door. I still needed to build the area up, and sculpture my sister maid in her childhood from Model Magic caught my eye as the perfect material to do it with (lightweight, flexible, and easily sculpted wit
  17. I'm no expert on the matter, but I believe this will royally screw up ackerman geometry, and have an effect on bumpsteer.
  18. That looks great Phantom! I'm guessing you did the stretched fabric method to shape the pods? Did you have to cut the doors as well for clearance? This is the most elegant looking install I've seen yet, only thing is I was hoping to avoid upholstery work. I'm wondering if I can take the upholstery off the door card, add a pod, and conform the original upholstery back over it again. Good to know you can fit 6.5" speakers, but I think I'll stick to 5.25" for ease of install. Any tips on running the speaker wires?
  19. NW240Z, you have a pm z240, I was actually going to send you a pm if I didn't hear anything. Sounds like you've got quite the catalogue of parts laying around!
  20. I'm looking for an S30 front hub (for a 77 280Z, not sure if there was a difference in years). I need it for next weekend for a road trip, so I will pay for air shipping to Newfoundland, Canada. Thanks!
  21. Huge spacers? All that width and positive offset will net you far too much backspace. Can he not flip the barrels around for a more suitable offset?
  22. I've been running G-Force Rivals and the live up to exceptions. My Z (prepped for stock class, but running STR because of wide wheels) runs in the top 3 raw times if I'm having a good day, and has FTD'd once. I've put 1 season of street driving on them and they're nearly toast though.
  23. This thread had me doing a bit of homework on the Truck-lite LED's. Then I found a local truck supply shop in town had them in stock at $210 CAD each. A quick drive down an unlit road at night made me realized how badly I needed them so I pulled the trigger the next day. As mentioned, they install just like stock, and the difference in output is literally night and day. Cut-off is very sharp as well. High Beam Low Beam Low Beam Cutoff
  24. I presume you put the filler piece under the door panel or vinyl? Happen to have any pics? I was thinking I would put the spacer under the panel vinyl to avoid any gaps and keep it looking as clean and original as possible. I would love to go the kick panel route, however the 280Z has the ECU on the driver's side, and fuse box on the passenger side kick panels. How did you run wiring into the doors? I was thinking of running the speaker wires through some vacuum line for added protecting when it runs next to the hinges.
  25. First picture looks pretty damn good, seems you've got the settings and technique down, just need to practice consistency. The tube-tube joins need more heat still though,
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