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Carbs to FI - 9/71


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#1 madkaw

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Posted 19 December 2016 - 05:35 PM

Thought I would document and take advice on this change over . Just sold off my triples and decided to get going on my MS controlled FI. First step - fuel delivery. My set up might or might not help anyone since I have a unique set up- CJ-5 poly tank .
Going to use a Tank Inc drop in Walbro with sump. Just going to cut another hole in my tank and drop it in. Going to keep my original sender unit in there because it an accurate fuel gauge sender

Attached Files


Steve,
9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , STI LSD 3.90- triple Mikunis 40mm

#2 HuD 91gt

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Posted 19 December 2016 - 09:36 PM

Interesting little contraption.  I'm too deep into my external surge tank, with an internal Walbro to change directions, but that certainly looks much cleaner and lot less hassle.


1971 240z - Balanced .040 over L28 w/ Ported P90 head - Colt c542.s cam, SU w/SM needles, MSII (ignition)- LS2 Coils Wasted Spark, MSA Premium Exhaust - 6-3-2 Header

 


#3 madkaw

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Posted 19 December 2016 - 10:17 PM

I didn't want to make room or a place for a surge tank and this is a better deal for my set up for sure. Don't know if this would drop in a stock tank easy or not. This is the easy part - running new fuel lines will be a bitch
Steve,
9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , STI LSD 3.90- triple Mikunis 40mm

#4 HuD 91gt

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Posted 19 December 2016 - 10:49 PM

Yes,  i'm having a B^&%h of a issue trying to keep all my components in the rear (Surge tank, filters, fuel pumps).  It will work, but is not much fun.

Neat contraption.   Your right though, mounting wouldn't be an issue on the stock tank, but having rooms for the lines/fittings above the tank could be troublesome.  With a little bit of welding, i'm sure you could trim the spare tire well to make room while keeping thing tidy.

Good luck.  I'm not too far behind you.

PS:  I'm kind of excited to run new lines. I enjoyed doing the brakes.  Going with 3/8" hard lines myself.  I ended dup with aluminum despite what the internet says.  But i'm in the airline industry.  If it's good enough for a 500 passenger jet, it's good enough for me.


Edited by HuD 91gt, 19 December 2016 - 10:52 PM.

1971 240z - Balanced .040 over L28 w/ Ported P90 head - Colt c542.s cam, SU w/SM needles, MSII (ignition)- LS2 Coils Wasted Spark, MSA Premium Exhaust - 6-3-2 Header

 


#5 madkaw

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 07:07 AM

I contemplated the aluminum , but listened to the critics :)
I might regret it after trying to bend the stuff. I am going old school and skipping all the AN fancy fittings though. I'm going to try and install the new lines in the same place , but it will be fun . Just ordered FPR , SS fuel line and a bunch of fittings and still 250$ + . I figured the AN stuff would have been another 200$
Steve,
9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , STI LSD 3.90- triple Mikunis 40mm

#6 madkaw

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 07:09 AM

And as far as all those components , I was going to move my battery in the back and use the battery tray for everything , HP pump, surge tank ...
Steve,
9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , STI LSD 3.90- triple Mikunis 40mm

#7 HuD 91gt

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 07:24 AM

Good for you for not getting sucked into the AN stuff.  I actually prefer the look of the rubber lines.  Your right, even using the off brands (Jegs/Summit) my bill was $390 + fuel pumps/regulator.  The only reason I went that way was the off chance the car may seem some stringent rules for track duty.  I doubt it, but you never know.


1971 240z - Balanced .040 over L28 w/ Ported P90 head - Colt c542.s cam, SU w/SM needles, MSII (ignition)- LS2 Coils Wasted Spark, MSA Premium Exhaust - 6-3-2 Header

 


#8 cockerstar

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 08:02 AM

I'm happy to be watching you go through this because I'm soon to follow! What made you chose the Tank Inc. setup over some of the other ones out there?

 

I'm currently looking at the VetteWorks adapter to run a 4th gen Camaro (LS1) fuel pump and am researching all of our options out there.

 

VetteWorks adapter:  http://www.vettework...?products_id=89

Installed on a Camaro tank:  http://transamcountr...p?topic=56613.0

 

I think the easiest route overall is going with one of these modern in-tank setups since I need to drop my tank to clean it anyway. Austin Hoke did a nice job with the mounting of an Aeromotive setup.

 

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Edited by cockerstar, 20 December 2016 - 08:04 AM.

Ryan | '71 240z | L24, flat tops, e31, 4-screw su's, 6-2-1 header, Greddy organic clutch, close ratio 5-speed | r200 CLSD waiting to be installed

Just a tip for serious head, check out Braap, an admin, he won't let you down ;)


In nome de padre, et fili, et sancte spirate

"If you cannot convince them, confuse them." --Harry S Truman

#9 madkaw

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 11:14 AM

I bought ONE aeromotive product -FPR- .cause I wanted to spend for quality there. The tank inc product was all I really found and it worked for me , so I stopped looking . 225$ for the whole kit with Walbro pump . You can't buy 1/2 of an Aeromotive pump for that. I'm not knocking their products , just don't want to spend 1K to convert to FI.
I'm perfectly happy with rubber lines- HELL- OEM stuff is all rubber.
OEM tank presents clearance issues that I don't have. Cutting and welding on a fuel tank gets into serious fab work. This would be better since it's just cutting a hole and dropping in.
Steve,
9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , STI LSD 3.90- triple Mikunis 40mm

#10 cockerstar

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 04:30 PM

With that Tank Inc unit you'll have to drop down part of the tank too, right? With the outlets on the top you might be able to run a spacer between the top of the tank and the floor and loosen up on the J bolts if you don't. I wouldn't want the outlet of the sump pressed right against the floor though.

The price really isn't bad including the pump though!

Edited by cockerstar, 20 December 2016 - 04:31 PM.

Ryan | '71 240z | L24, flat tops, e31, 4-screw su's, 6-2-1 header, Greddy organic clutch, close ratio 5-speed | r200 CLSD waiting to be installed

Just a tip for serious head, check out Braap, an admin, he won't let you down ;)


In nome de padre, et fili, et sancte spirate

"If you cannot convince them, confuse them." --Harry S Truman

#11 madkaw

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 05:55 PM

Not sure what you mean. See the pic above. I know you can't tell but I have room above my tank . My spare wheel tub is gone and the tank is framed in just below the floor. I probably have 1.5" of room or more. I am going to cut a hole in the floor for an access panel . I already have an access panel for the sending unit , and I will just make another for this pump.

Maybe one could do something slick in the spare tub well to make clearance for the pump fittings. 


Steve,
9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , STI LSD 3.90- triple Mikunis 40mm

#12 cockerstar

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 10:30 PM

That makes a lot more sense. I didn't realize you had that clearance there and was thinking of a stock configuration where the tank and floor are only separated by the pads on the tank.
Ryan | '71 240z | L24, flat tops, e31, 4-screw su's, 6-2-1 header, Greddy organic clutch, close ratio 5-speed | r200 CLSD waiting to be installed

Just a tip for serious head, check out Braap, an admin, he won't let you down ;)


In nome de padre, et fili, et sancte spirate

"If you cannot convince them, confuse them." --Harry S Truman

#13 madkaw

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 07:18 PM

Well just about finished running a 3/8" supply - that SUCKED ! Put it in OEM position in the tunnel and it was PITA - the SS did not help that either. Had to make new line rubber supports which to a little R&D time . Then there was loosening the wire harness and some brake lines - oh and the DS and ......
I managed to make the supply line long enough to reach the frame , so I need to make a second to go to the fuel rail. That should go faster . In hindsight I might have done zinc steel lines next time . That SS is like superman sh!t to bend .
Going to start on the tank cutting next.

Attached Files


Steve,
9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , STI LSD 3.90- triple Mikunis 40mm

#14 madkaw

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Posted 27 January 2017 - 12:18 PM

I've decided to use Swagelocks for all my connections . SS has limited my options ,but regardless the Swagelocks are a strong option.
My areomotive fuelfilter came in as well as clamps and other things . Bad news is that my plastic fuel tank will not work . Not enough flat area on top to support pump lid . I ordered my new steel CJ -5 tank with straps and sending unit for a grand total of 130$ !
Being metal I can work any areas flat I need to, plus gives welding options.
At least the supply line is done and I utilized the original supply line as a return - so no bending required:)
So EFI upgrade plumbing costs:
SS line = 50$
Swagelocks -= 100
Tank inc pump= 250
Fpr = 125$
Fuel filter = 85$
Fuel rail = 150
Injectors = 200$
New tank= 150

It's really starting to add up !
Steve,
9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , STI LSD 3.90- triple Mikunis 40mm

#15 madkaw

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Posted 06 February 2017 - 02:31 PM

Got my pump installed into my tank - waiting on my sending unit. Everything is just sitting in there finishing mock up. Had to see how things lined up before cutting more holes in my floor. Just got my Swagelocks so they aren't installed . Used plan old copper compression fittings to mock up stuff and figure final sizing on hard lines with fuel filter.
I think I am going to reinstall vent hard line under car to enable to run a proper purge vent system .

Attached Files


Steve,
9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , STI LSD 3.90- triple Mikunis 40mm

#16 HuD 91gt

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Posted 06 February 2017 - 03:16 PM

I feel your pain, and im using easy to bend aluminum! One thing id watch, if you dont have solid motor mounts you will have side to side movement with the engine. Is there enough give in that 3 inch piece of rubber between fuel rail hardline and regulator?

Edited by HuD 91gt, 06 February 2017 - 03:19 PM.

1971 240z - Balanced .040 over L28 w/ Ported P90 head - Colt c542.s cam, SU w/SM needles, MSII (ignition)- LS2 Coils Wasted Spark, MSA Premium Exhaust - 6-3-2 Header

 


#17 madkaw

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Posted 06 February 2017 - 04:19 PM

I think it's enough, but might reconsider where it's placed. I might use rubber from rail to hardline so rubber has more side give. Right. Is movemant would be inline with the rubber line, so maybe it would be better to be perpendicular ? Either way I will have rubber connections from engine to chassis .
Steve,
9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , STI LSD 3.90- triple Mikunis 40mm

#18 HuD 91gt

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Posted 06 February 2017 - 06:40 PM

I agree. Rubber on the opposite side would be better. The 90 degree bend is going to have flexibility in it already but where it is placed now puts that pressure on the regulator mount, and those hose connection s.

1971 240z - Balanced .040 over L28 w/ Ported P90 head - Colt c542.s cam, SU w/SM needles, MSII (ignition)- LS2 Coils Wasted Spark, MSA Premium Exhaust - 6-3-2 Header

 


#19 madkaw

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Posted 06 February 2017 - 07:25 PM

I might just do away with the hard line all together on the FPR side and the fuel filter side will have the rubber line in the correct place
Steve,
9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , STI LSD 3.90- triple Mikunis 40mm

#20 madkaw

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Posted 11 February 2017 - 04:34 PM

Latest pic of my progress. I believe I have the engine bay plumbed-but not tested. Fuel tank and pump is still getting sorted out. Swageloks are pretty cool and seemed to work as intended-again-waiting on pressure check.

I REALLY hope I'm done under the car with running fuel lines-BUT- I still need to consider fuel venting.

Don't really want to run a charcoal canister, but also don't want to just vent uncontrolled. Don't want my garage smelling like gas.

I was actually thinking of using the original emissions valve that connected to the air filter on the early models. Let the pressure in the tank decide when to vent and let it vent to the intake track before the TB. Any thoughts?    

Attached Files


Edited by madkaw, 11 February 2017 - 04:45 PM.

Steve,
9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , STI LSD 3.90- triple Mikunis 40mm




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