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Cheap Paint Job


Guest Mike

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Okay folks... please don't flame me:flamedevi

 

I have an Alpha 1, which needs some minor body work and I'm installing a trunk kit. The car will need new paint, of course.

 

I'm not in the best if health but I can do some light-duty work. I also just don't have the time to do everything. However, I'm also on a budget and must save $$$. If I take the following route, I'm sure I can keep my paint/body work under $1500 or so.

 

Here's my idea...

 

(1) I do all the meticulous time-consuming body and prep work

(2) supply high quality paint and clear-coat to a cheap paint shop

(3) have them shoot two coats of paint and five coats of clear

(4) I do all the wet sanding / blocking, etc.

(5) pay someone else to buff and polish

 

What do you think?

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Yep.

The greatest savings can be had by doing to manual labor portion of the job. But its hard work that requires some skill.

The hard part is finding a good painter that will let you do the work. Seems most painters are concerned about their reputation. If the prep work isnt of high quality, no amount of paint in the world will save it.

But there are some gents that will do as you have in mind. It just might take a while to find him.

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I was thinking Earl S***** (you know who) or similar.

 

Yep.

The greatest savings can be had by doing to manual labor portion of the job. But its hard work that requires some skill.

The hard part is finding a good painter that will let you do the work. Seems most painters are concerned about their reputation. If the prep work isnt of high quality, no amount of paint in the world will save it.

But there are some gents that will do as you have in mind. It just might take a while to find him.

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Block sanding and prep work usually costs quite a bit so you can help by doing it yourself. Since most of it is fiberglass I would use the "guide coat" method.

 

Buff and polish is pretty easy to do yourself as long as you are careful.

 

You don't have to go through the expensive process of base coat/clear coat. I used DuPont Duretane Ultra on my car and it doesn't have a clear coat. One big advantage of not using the clear coat is I can touch up small stone chips and you can't even see them.

 

236622_9_full.jpg

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Hey SpeedRacer,

 

I've always admired your GTO. This is a daily driver. Is the lack of a UV clearcoat an issue? It'll see a LOT of hot Texas sun.

 

Thanks!!

 

Block sanding and prep work usually costs quite a bit so you can help by doing it yourself. Since most of it is fiberglass I would use the "guide coat" method.

 

Buff and polish is pretty easy to do yourself as long as you are careful.

 

You don't have to go through the expensive process of base coat/clear coat. I used DuPont Duretane Ultra on my car and it doesn't have a clear coat. One big advantage of not using the clear coat is I can touch up small stone chips and you can't even see them.

 

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Thanks RacerX. This is all good info and truly appreciated. I just need to keep my expenses down. I suppose if I can have the full paint and finishing done for less than $2K, I can do that. Of course, I'm sure I'll still need to do all the prep work.

 

Mike,

 

2 part (catalyzed) Single stage paints are formulated to be UV resistant.

 

By doing the prepwork yourself you'll save money. Please don't go to a cheap paint shop. Shop around - look at the shops that put out "complete" paint jobs. What I mean by that, is alot of collision repair shops tend to do mostly "spot" jobs - meaning they only paint parts of the car (fenders, doors or a combination etc..). Painting an entire car takes some skill. So, find out which shops have painters that are capable of spraying an entire vehicle that meets your requirements. When you look at a complete paint job on a car that meets your satisfaction - ask the manager who the painter was that applied the paint job. If that is the shop you want to do the work and they accept the job - be sure to inform the manager that you want that particular painter to do your car. Some shops have only one painter while bigger production shops have more than one.

 

My experience has been the larger collision repair shop will not readily accept work where a customer has done all the prepwork and merely have the car painted. Why? Because there isn't alot of money to be made.

 

I would suggest you approach some of the smaller shops - especially the ones that cater more towards restoration type repairs instead of the high volume collision repair shops. This has been my experience and just wanted to share it with you. Take the time to talk to the shop managers - tell them what you have, what you will do, what you want them to do, bring them pictures so they have an idea of what they're getting into. Then ask them if they would be willing to accept this type of work.

 

2 stage paint systems like basecoat/clearcoat may or may not always cost you more as opposed to single stage paint. Alot of variables come into play - like the color you select and the manufacturer of the product. There are a variety of pricing structures amongst the paint manufacturers. If I may suggest you look at the different paint lines your local paint supplier provides and compare prices.

 

Most of your expense is going to be in the foundation you apply for the topcoating you select. I will agree with Speed Racer that single stage paint systems allow for easier chip repairs versus the BC/CC. I'm referring to solid color chip repair. Yes - metallic paint is also available as a single stage system not only as a BC/CC system.

Hope this helps.

 

RacerX

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I saw a post about this but skipped over it. Since I've read it a bit, I'm now intrigued. I'm definitely going to research this more... maybe try it with a scrap piece of metal or fiberglass.

 

Thanks Alf!!

 

 

If you really want inexpensive you could be bold and go the roller route. Check out this thread, pretty impressive.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107977&highlight=roller+paint+job

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I guess it boils down to this... who'll do a better job? Me with a roller or Maaco with a spray gun:icon56:

 

I got a car painted at Macco once. It was about 5 years ago. I did all the prep work, they taped and painted. It was really nice for 350$.

 

Jake

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Why would you do all the hard work just to let someone else do the fun part? You should at least consider spraying it yourself. I did mine in my back yard- no booth- and it came out pretty good. Lots of work in the prep, all for just a short while spraying. It is a rewarding feeling too. I say, "why not?"

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Thanks mikeatrpi. I think before I'd paint in my back yard, I'd rent a paint booth. This does inspire me to DIY though:)

 

Why would you do all the hard work just to let someone else do the fun part? You should at least consider spraying it yourself. I did mine in my back yard- no booth- and it came out pretty good. Lots of work in the prep, all for just a short while spraying. It is a rewarding feeling too. I say, "why not?"
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Why would you do all the hard work just to let someone else do the fun part? You should at least consider spraying it yourself. I did mine in my back yard- no booth- and it came out pretty good. Lots of work in the prep, all for just a short while spraying. It is a rewarding feeling too. I say, "why not?"

because with my last Z, I did all the prep work and then paid a navy aircraft painter who worked in my Division to do the final paint and it came out like crap. I would rather let a professional do the final part. Yeah, Maaco and Earl Scheib are cheap, but those guys spray all day every day. If you bring in a prepped car, you will get a decent job for very little $$.

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because with my last Z, I did all the prep work and then paid a navy aircraft painter who worked in my Division to do the final paint and it came out like crap. I would rather let a professional do the final part. Yeah, Maaco and Earl Scheib are cheap, but those guys spray all day every day. If you bring in a prepped car, you will get a decent job for very little $$.

 

I worked for the Air Force years ago. They are very meticulous, no?? Yet... Maaco, Earl Scheib, etc., are in it for the $$$... no BS there :^)

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  • 2 months later...

I'm surprised at the positive feedback for Maaco. We had one of our police cars painted at Maaco, and it came out like crap. I'm debtaing painting mine myself next month, but i don't have a spray booth, and it'll be december and i don't know if i can do it outside...

 

I know that setting up an improper spray booth is an explosion hazard, and if i do it in a tent it would probably be too cold, no? Anyone have any suggestions, or know how much (ballpark it) it would cost to rent a spray booth?

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I really appreciate your perspective on that RacerX, i'm actually fairly releived that not all the customers of Maaco nationwide are getting the same sub-standard product that we ended up with. Like i said above, i'd be interested in having my 280ZX painted (or finding a place that i could paint it) and wouldn't mind having a busniess do it for a reasonable price. Good to hear that people have experienced good results with similar busniesses.

 

Now i just have to figure out what i'm gonna do....

 

...Thanks again! :-D

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considering your budget, I feel that if you do all the prep work on the car you should be able to spring for a decent paint job from a body shop.

 

I'm in the process of doing the rusto-roller paint job on my Sentra SE-R and it looks really good, but I started with a crappy canvas :-). The most important part of this technique is to really take your time and be meticulous with your prep work. I didn't really care much about how this turned out, but every coat and sanding that I do, I see every flaw and now I wish I'd gotten some filler just to smooth out a few of the dents, if nothing else. It takes me about 2 hours to paint a coat and 2 hours to wet sand it. I've got about $90 total in all my materials for the car, but I've already probably got 30 hours into it and still have a few more coats, some sanding, and a lot of polishing, so it is extremely time consuming and boring. On the plus side, it will end up looking comparable to, if not better than, a cheapo paint job with minimal mess and smell, and you'll get the satisfaction of knowing you did it. Depending on how this finally turns out, I might end up doing this to my Z once I start diving it and rooting out the rust and fix all the little body issues on it.

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First off sorry for the low res cheapo camera til i get mroe bux.

My car is from the rustobooth!

And i am more than satisfied, turned looking better with me doing all the work body/ body prep/ etc. etc.

then when i took my 87 300zxNA to a local "custom" shop for spraying :P those guys suck. anywho now for the pics!!!!!!

first before pics w a little work on the hood and primered areas (boat bumpers still there) then AFter!

BEFORE BW_thumb.jpg

 

BEFORE BW2_thumb.jpg

 

Oct16$20_thumb.JPG

 

1773_thumb.attach

 

Oh BTW i sprayed w a HVLP gun from HF in my garage, then a little wet sanding and boom! its done.

Good luck on whatever you do!

ron

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