240z72 Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Smart move. Your a smart guy so I'm shur your way ahead of me on this. When I redid my pan and cover gaskets I aimed for having the front main seal centered as much as possible one the crank. While keeping the front cover level and within spec. for the gap tolerable when you install the pan. I finger tightened the front cover bolts and bumped it around to get the fit right. A machined 1x1x2 or 3 helps a lot . Glad to hear its progressing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 I decided to upgrade to an LS3 oil pan to gain some ground clearance, and improved baffling. While I was cleaning the surfaces to install, I noticed that when I put the front cover on the last time (3 years ago) i didn't get it aligned correctly, and there would be uneven torque on the oil pan. SO rather than risk anything with my brand new oil pan, I decided to do the RIGHT thing and re-align the front cover. I started draining the radiator tonight, and will take off the water pump tomorrow. hopefully be able to loosen the front cover and tap it down to where it should be. AGH. On a lighter note, the main shaft for the trans is at the machine shop and should be back soon. The driveshaft and axles are ordered, and I would expect them in the next week or so. Busy busy! Sunny, How much shorter is the LS3 oil pan vs the LS1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240z72 Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 If its the c5 I believe its just about an inch...its the one I want I. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zfan1 Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 I just traded a LS1 pan for a LS2 Covette pan, it's a little shallower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share Posted March 14, 2013 (edited) It is .77" shallower. However, it is deeper up front. I might have issues installing it with the motor in the car. Might have to get creative. It fits without the pickup on the engine, but haven't tried with. This is an LS3 pan, so C6 Vette. Edited March 14, 2013 by SUNNY Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share Posted March 14, 2013 http://www.improvedracing.com/LS-oil-pan-dimensions.php This is where i bought all the stuff from as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 15, 2013 Author Share Posted March 15, 2013 Oil pan is IN! It was a bit of a pain, but not terrible. I had to take the passengers side engine mount bolt out, and used a 2x4 and a floor jack to lift the engine to get enough clearance at the crossmember to slide the pan in. It fits very nice though, and required no mods. However, the low oil switch is pretty close to the header on the pass side, but not a big deal. The headers are definitely lower than the oil pan now, so thats a good piece of mind. I also gained some baffling (no more oil starvation worries!) Not that it was ever a huge concern, but if I actually do get to the road course this year, it will be one less thing to worry about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 16, 2013 Author Share Posted March 16, 2013 Installed my ARP wheel studs all around tonight. For those curious, just buy the F Body camaro ones, the knurl diameter is like .002 larger. They work perfect, and are a fraction of the cost of the miata studs, or whatever other option is out there. Plus, you end up with 4 extras! Thats about all i got done. Tomorrow I'll finish sand blasting some parts, painting them, and installing all the rear brakes. Hopefully have a plan in place to get the E brake working too. Shouldn't be too hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 What's the thread size and pitch on those studs? How much longer are they? I'll be going to longer studs later this year....did you just pull them into place with a nut or did you press them in? I'll be doing the CF studs that come with the 39-spliners and I'd like the front and back to be the same so I don't have to have a separate set of lug nuts.... Keep up the pace-I'm anticipating your successful posts from the strip this year! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 Thanks Keith! They are an M12 x 1.50 . 2.5" under knurl length. I used an old open ended lug nut, and a pair of 12mm washers (essential) to pull them in. Just put it in the vice and gave er hell. They've been on national backorder, might be in stock now. I had to wait a month for mine. @ summit -----> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-7708/overview/ with gorilla lug nuts. 90037B IIRC. I went with a 3/4" size so i could get a socket inside my wheels. the 13/16 gnarls them up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 I've never pulled my studs out. How does that stud compare length wise to the stock z? I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 mmm. i'd say its 1-1.5" longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Sounds perfect. Now to see if I can get open ended nuts for the Weld Draglites. Although, I understand it isn't that hard to cut the ends off (ouch-my finger!). Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share Posted March 23, 2013 Sometimes I feel that if I didn't have bad luck, I'd have no luck at all.......... So I sent the main shaft out of the transmission to a machine shop 2.5 weeks ago. They had shafts that were already machined, and ready to go out the door, but I opted to have them machine MY shaft, so I could keep the bearing on it, and not have to re-shim the trans. I get a call today, and they FINALLY have my shaft done, but they somehow mangeled the bearing in the process, and the machining didn't come out 100% smooth (not a problem because its only a gear that presses on it) . So the shop offers to send me a new bearing and race along with the main shaft. I accept (no other option really). So long story short, I waited 2.5 weeks for a machined main shaft that I could have had in a couple days, and I STILL have to re-shim the trans. FRUSTRATING Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 24, 2013 Author Share Posted March 24, 2013 Finished the valve covers yesterday. Sand blasted them, had -10 fittings welded on (for pcv), hot tanked them, and painted them with some black crinkle paint. I liked how they came out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Love the wrinkle black finish, get them installed and post the pic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 24, 2013 Author Share Posted March 24, 2013 They're back on, and being mostly hidden by the coil packs. I'll post some more when I get back out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 You sure are doing a lot of "while you're at its"! When do you think you are gonna be Rollin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 25, 2013 Author Share Posted March 25, 2013 You sure are doing a lot of "while you're at its"! When do you think you are gonna be Rollin? Lol. couldn't have put it better myself, Keith. The posi unit (see other thread), mainshaft, driveshaft, axles, and brake line components should be here this week. I'm going to celebrate easter by myself in the garage i think. I want to be driving it within 10 days. Doing some serious planning/ buying right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Oh, take an hour break at get some church on Easter-it only took JC three days to emerge from the tomb. Maybe some of that will rub off on your car! Kind of neat: the dragstrip where I'm gonna be running with wfritts911 on a couple of weeks has a church service at the track at nine, pits are open at ten, first car off at eleven! I wonder how many guys are praying for their axles! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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