xxxpatsabxxx

Thanks leon, it was an issue with the needle, it must have gotten bent on my workbench.

i think it might be a combo of the needle size the PO had installed and the new nozzles i ordered from MSA...

Hey everyone, I'm having trouble with my 2nd hand 1971 4 screw SU carbs that I am in the process of rebuilding. They are not yet installed and are currently on my bench. The Problem The piston ends up freezing in position when I install it into the carb body and screw on the Bell chamber. It stays closed the worst in the closed position but also stay in the open position when it does get moved. But When i place the piston into either the chamber OR the body, it moves freely. Being the guy that I am, I decided to eliminate as many problems as possible so I swapped components (piston, chamber/dome, nozzle, needle) from the front and rear carbs and the problem persisted on only the front carb. With as many SU carb owners that there are, someone has to have encountered this problem. If not, I'd love a helping hand on troubleshooting. - So gentlemen, What problems can there be and how can i fix them? - I was thinking it could be the nozzle (but i had that replaced) - Maybe my jet retaining nut is bad? - Warped carb body? - Possibly oversized needle? - Needle offset. (but works with other carb body?) Thanks for your time, PatSab

Pm sent

Hi, I'm looking to buy a 4 barrel intake manifold from either AZC or the Clifford made intake sold by MSA. OR post some offers on SU round tops. Thanks for dropping by! PatSab

hey challenger thanks for the quick reply. im in my car right now with my multimeter and my laptop but im struggling to follow the FSM, the page is hard to read and there are alot of symbols that i am unfamiliar with. i have a basic understanding of how vehicle electrical systems work but this is a real challenge. I'll keep on it and let you know if i make any progress!

Hey guys, I have an early 74 260z and i cant get my turn signals to work. When i turn on the hazards both lights work. -replaced the flasher units and both work when placed in the hazard connector -already checked all of my fuses and they are all in working condition -took apart the combination switch, cleaned, and reassembled -cleaned connectors with connector cleaner (aerosol version) any help would be appreciated! Maybe I'm missing something really simple that you guys could point out.

Hey octo, thought i would drop by your thread and check out the progress. good work man, i'm glad to see that things are moving forward!

sorry i meant to put 3 speed auto. lol typo

you are a god.

great build, i cant wait to hear your verdict on the 4bbl. You're keeping this build reallly clean! good work

Well, I was in the same boat as you with the dual dgv vs. SU. I did A LOT of digging and what it pretty much boils down to, is the ease of rebuilding SUs back to near perfect conditions and or tuning them to desired specifications. DGVs on the other hand are real pains when it comes to tuning and jetting to get the results you're looking for. Maybe its just my experience with a bad set of dgvs but I'm always struggling to get more out of my carbs. I tried tuning with colortune, the smell and listen test and switching jets but it's just tough work. On my trip from San Diego to Monterey Bay, I averaged 16 MPG going 65 w/ a 4 speed auto. Ive done this trip around 5 times and logged each fill up and calculated the mileage.

hey octo, your car has come a long way. post up some new info, i cant wait to see that new engine in.

thanks for looking and finding links guys. still waiting to hear back from the previous posters tho.

still waiting for more information and pics from previous posters, still interested.